180 not enough flow

morgan175

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Right now I'm using two mp40's offset from each other on my 180. To me it's not enough flow. I was wondering what others have on their tank. I'm not getting the suspension I was hoping for. The idea I'm thinking was to go with the 60's but no money.

Please if you need more info please ask.
 
What is the length of the tank? And depth and height too. Standard or custom size is basically my question. Can influence what I would recommend. Also what corals are you keeping?
 
It is a standard 180. 6 x24x24. Trying like hell to keep Monti's and acropora. I'm having a nitrate problem. Thinking its from the power heads not keeping it in the water column to be exported in the sump.

Thank you
 
40's have an effective reach of only about 2'. At 3' it moves the water, but it's really weak. If you have them on the ends of the tank like most folks (i.e. facing each other), they might even have a damping effect on each other. They are not ideal for a long tank. In any event, mp60's are not the cure....a different style of pump is, IMO.

To that end, a Tunze Stream is designed to move water better and has around a 6' reach. To boot: At $285/ea it's more economical as well. A pump on either end, run alternately as a tide simulation, or using whatever flow pattern you want to set up would rock a 180. I've converted more than one 180g tank this way. Be prepared to freak out when you see how much detritus get lifted out of the rocks and sand as soon as the 6105's take effect. A pair for $570 seems like a bargain.

There are a number of other pumps that would be more suitable than the 40's, even multiple other options from Tunze other than the setup I proposed above. But of course there are other makes too.

If you're die-hard on the Vortech's, you'll have to run four of them across the back, possibly making allowances in how your live rock is stacked because they can't be aimed/can't have any obstacles directly in front of them. At around $1500, it's not an economical solution at all, but you will get great flow this way. You can find a few excellent examples of tanks set up this way here on R2R.
 
You may look into a XF150 for a tank that size. Use it for side to side circulation and put the 40's on your back glass pushing back to front. That would give you allot more random flow. JMO
 
40's have an effective reach of only about 2'. At 3' it moves the water, but it's really weak. If you have them on the ends of the tank like most folks (i.e. facing each other), they might even have a damping effect on each other. They are not ideal for a long tank. In any event, mp60's are not the cure....a different style of pump is, IMO.

To that end, a Tunze Stream is designed to move water better and has around a 6' reach. To boot: At $285/ea it's more economical as well. A pump on either end, run alternately as a tide simulation, or using whatever flow pattern you want to set up would rock a 180. I've converted more than one 180g tank this way. Be prepared to freak out when you see how much detritus get lifted out of the rocks and sand as soon as the 6105's take effect. A pair for $570 seems like a bargain.

There are a number of other pumps that would be more suitable than the 40's, even multiple other options from Tunze other than the setup I proposed above. But of course there are other makes too.

If you're die-hard on the Vortech's, you'll have to run four of them across the back, possibly making allowances in how your live rock is stacked because they can't be aimed/can't have any obstacles directly in front of them. At around $1500, it's not an economical solution at all, but you will get great flow this way. You can find a few excellent examples of tanks set up this way here on R2R.
Thank you for the advice. The look of power heads on the side of the tank is just not what I like. If they were like vortech I would have in a minute. Maybe this will just be a fix for a little. Again thank you.
 
I have a gyre 150 and a jebao RW-15 on the back glass. The RW15 is at 10% and the gyre is at 40%. There is enough current with those two power heads to splash water out of the tank
 
I have a 180 and have used one XF 150 with good success.....I just added a 6045 just to add a bit....
 
I currently have (for my 6'×2'×2' 180)

1 gyre xf150 on my right side pane a couple inches from the top horizontal. Runs at 100% forward 24/7 across the top from right to left.

1 gyre xf150 on the left side back panel vertical. Its setup with alternating flow so half is forward and half is reversed at any one time. When the top is foward it hits the front of the tank left to right. When the bottom is forward it runs along the back of the tank left to right. This changes based on the lunar cycle 4 times a day like a tide and ramps down 30 minutes before the change and ramps back up after the change like a tide. Otherwise its at 100% speed.

This creates a constant current up top and the undertow alternating sides.

Then I have my return pump running at about 1400gph and returns in the flow ditection with the top right gyre.
46060c31d68e66bc5f6f4d9870374cd9.jpg


And my bubbletips love it. Nothing in my tank is hit with direct flow and looking like they're going to get their flesh ripped off
38c0459b769168bba1529013ddc33c90.jpg
 
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Jason2459 that sounds great but my overflows would block the one that is vertical. Two overflows not corner or center. I don't know what to call them. Thanks

Can set it up on the side pane.

Otherwise you have 2 40's. Just add one more pump to the mix. A 60 or xf150 or a neptune wav pair would be awesome if you have an apex. If you need budget freindly jebao but I don't know anything about the different types they have and what flow they provide. Tunze is another great option too.

Most people can add a lot more flow then they realize.
 
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Thank you for the advice. The look of power heads on the side of the tank is just not what I like. If they were like vortech I would have in a minute. Maybe this will just be a fix for a little. Again thank you.

The 40's just put an even bigger mass on the outside of the tank - even more visible in most installs. Certainly not hidden. ;) And very possible to knock off the glass by accident - not something that's really possible with any other pump.

Also, Tunze's are more able to be hidden from view than any other pump I can think of - they don't have the limit of only being able to point straight ahead.

What this means is that you can drop them out of view (behind your rocks?) and still aim them in such a way that they can do their job.

If that's not enough, you can actually hide a Tunze pump....they make a ceramic face for all their pump models, I think.

Like this:
csm_6025.250_7d334cf088.jpg

2E6474F3-29C1-489A-B47F-A898858E8033_zps0g6q7pai.jpg
 
Cool! have you tried the setup for the wave? I recently did this on my tank (80 gallon, 4' long) and once the wave gets going it seems to provide pretty good flow across the whole tank. I'm assuming you also set them up as slave and master as well.
 
I use 2 Maxspec Gyre 150 at about 40% on my 180. alternating pulses 2 min on one and 5 min on the other. works great.
 
I agree with the Gyre guys, I would also wait another month a get a Gyre 280 and adjust the propeller heads and adjust for flow to have it will on effect the over flows. I would also look at address you nitrates using some sort of carbon dosing. Flow will help a little but what is causing you nitrate issue. To many fish, critters, skimming right, over feeding. If you feed heavy like I do on purpose then carbon dosing is your answer to you nitrates.
 

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