1st cycle

[Nargard]

Nice, glad we did not do eighty that may take a couple days to watch for movement so we have a very nice baseline set of pics here, can’t wait to see if it’s locked for days or can show slight change soon

it’s really uber dark, nh3 is very potent stuff for sure.

Yeah, it was a oh.....well that worked didn't it....moment

 

[Nargard]

Nice, glad we did not do eighty that may take a couple days to watch for movement so we have a very nice baseline set of pics here, can’t wait to see if it’s locked for days or can show slight change soon

it’s really uber dark, nh3 is very potent stuff for sure.

Any thoughts on whether I should stop dosing Fastart-M? Basically bottled nutrients. I figure I should keep dosing Microbacter7.

 

[Nargard]

Nice, glad we did not do eighty that may take a couple days to watch for movement so we have a very nice baseline set of pics here, can’t wait to see if it’s locked for days or can show slight change soon

it’s really uber dark, nh3 is very potent stuff for sure.

Looks like it's locked in pretty good. No movement yet. I am getting Nitrates for the 1st time.

 

[brandon429]

Nice, agreed that is conversion in progress even if it’s nitrite clouding the test. If it takes a while to move down a dark green that’s no harm, we did forty drops is that right

 

[Nargard]

Nice, agreed that is conversion in progress even if it’s nitrite clouding the test. If it takes a while to move down a dark green that’s no harm, we did forty drops is that right

I did 44 drops. The recommended dose was 88.

Nitrite was 0. Nitrate ~2. Most Nitrate I've had.

 

[brandon429]

That’s feeding bacteria nicely, on day fifteen you could change out most of the water and just begin it’ll have enough base coverage by then too even with a messy topwater

 

[Nargard]

That’s feeding bacteria nicely, on day fifteen you could change out most of the water and just begin it’ll have enough base coverage by then too even with a messy topwater

I'm on Day 17.

 

[brandon429]

what happened in post #5 w happen on your tank if you did the water change, see how he went from stalled test to fish + anem

the cool part about that thread is it doesn't matter if you did twenty drops due to known issues with those testers, the recommended dose, or double the recommended dose as some have done when red sea wouldn't budge at all until 9 ppm was hit.

we can just change it all, and be done cycling, having met the depositional timeframes for water bacteria off the bottle bac label. the test above matters zero pct

 

[Nargard]

what happened in post #5 w happen on your tank if you did the water change, see how he went from stalled test to fish + anem

the cool part about that thread is it doesn't matter if you did twenty drops due to known issues with those testers, the recommended dose, or double the recommended dose as some have done when red sea wouldn't budge at all until 9 ppm was hit.

we can just change it all, and be done cycling, having met the depositional timeframes for water bacteria off the bottle bac label. the test above matters zero pct

I'm beginning to understand. I wish I would have followed the instructions on post #5 rather than adding 44 drops. I'm sure I am well above 2ppm (dark green) so that is why I am not seeing a decrease. I am decreasing, I just can't see it due to the limitations of my test kit. So basically I can either due a huge water change to substantially lower my ammonia or wait until my bacteria is able to consume 99% of it. Correct?

 

[brandon429]

or purigen it right out, I was reading prior that it will scrub ammonia saving some work, thought that was a neat option for large tankers

 

[Nargard]

or purigen it right out, I was reading prior that it will scrub ammonia saving some work, thought that was a neat option for large tankers

I have a 22 long. Water change wouldn't be a big deal. Does 100% water change really mean ~95%? There will be a small amount in my sump and my sand bed.

 

[brandon429]

no that's fine, because we believe that will be neutralized in about 5 mins given the active surface area

but your test kits will still show metabolites that make an overreport, is possible



we can trust the method over the kits given your number of days underwater and known source dosing. plus you've met the ammonia control line from a cycling chart we just need to clean out the topwater. pls take us pics of the job and the new life added so we can add to a different thread on stuck cycle studies

 

[Nargard]

no that's fine, because we believe that will be neutralized in about 5 mins given the active surface area

but your test kits will still show metabolites that make an overreport, is possible



we can trust the method over the kits given your number of days underwater and known source dosing. plus you've met the ammonia control line from a cycling chart we just need to clean out the topwater. pls take us pics of the job and the new life added so we can add to a different thread on stuck cycle studies

So I take it that exposing the rock to air for a short period of time during the water change will not negatively impact the bacteria living on the rock?

Also, one last round of test pics from today. Less ammonia and more nitrates. No a big difference in color but it was noticeable.

 

[brandon429]

No for sure air is ok, on YouTube I have a video of me draining my entire pico reef corals and all for 33 mins/ current record one take no cuts or edits.

refill, then update vid next day is all open skip cycle. My rock isn’t special, this is everyone’s rocks. I didn’t have sponges and tunicates to die off and neither will yours, the bac themselves are nearly bulletproof. Your rocks have this ability right now lol seems crazy I know but it’s the case.

on Google, if we search whether or not aquarium filter bac can tolerate air exposure we get bottle bac sites stating it can’t.

coincidence yes yes, they want us to always be buying replacements.

but the real truth is teased on out a slide the cells are weak. Placed under biofilms in an aquarium, insulated, context matters fully. You have that bioslick due to meeting submersion time, feed and inoculation known

 

[Nargard]

No for sure air is ok, on YouTube I have a video of me draining my entire pico reef corals and all for 33 mins/ current record one take no cuts or edits.

refill, then update vid next day is all open skip cycle. My rock isn’t special, this is everyone’s rocks. I didn’t have sponges and tunicates to die off and neither will yours, the bac themselves are nearly bulletproof. Your rocks have this ability right now lol seems crazy I know but it’s the case.

So to be clear, let's say I do the water change as discussed on Saturday and verify my parameters are appropriate after refill, I can get a fish on Sunday? A clownfish for example?

 

[brandon429]

Yep for sure, but then we get into fish disease. That automatically opts out of fallow. This tends to be ok for clowns, but not for eventual mixed fish

starting with some corals and clean up crew is different because you can build them up as you fallow and prepare for fish, if that’s the mode you are choosing. There is no feed additive, garlic support, or water treatment in-tank that will prevent disease, it’s fallow and qt

source for the claim- any current post here:

Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnosis

A forum for discussing treatment and diagnosing saltwater reef fish.

www.reef2reef.com

*eighty posters might be quick to pounce my claims against selcon or garlic or bottled dosers, Id redirect into the fish disease forum where those items are not stickies, they’re not handling the daily work. Isolation, fallow, qt is.

Paul B has an ocean water, ocean refreshed substrate system that wards off disease using oceanic live sources and all live food. Since your tank is opposite of that, it wasn’t planned for your tanks trajectory.


as soon as non fallow and qt works in pattern, we will see it being used there not just as a testimonial which is the sole driver for those supplements

 

[Nargard]

Yep for sure, but then we get into fish disease. That automatically opts out of fallow. This tends to be ok for clowns, but not for eventual mixed fish

starting with some corals and clean up crew is different because you can build them up as you fallow and prepare for fish, if that’s the mode you are choosing. There is no feed additive, garlic support, or water treatment in-tank that will prevent disease, it’s fallow and qt

source for the claim- any current post here:

Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnosis

A forum for discussing treatment and diagnosing saltwater reef fish.

www.reef2reef.com

*eighty posters might be quick to pounce my claims against selcon or garlic or bottled dosers, Id redirect into the fish disease forum where those items are not stickies, they’re not handling the daily work. Isolation, fallow, qt is.


as soon as non fallow and qt works in pattern, we will see it being used there not just as a testimonial which is the sole driver for those supplements

1st I've read about fallow. Never even heard of the term. So if I am starting a new tank, such as this one, how are there parasites in the water? So basically, if I am to eliminate any fish disease in my tank I should not introduce any for the following time periods? I am currently at Day 18 so a minimum of 54 days from today to eliminate Ich? That's painful. The wait, not the Ich.....

• Black ich (turbellarian worms) - 4 weeks
• Brooklynella aka “Clownfish disease” or “Brook” - 6 weeks
• Flukes (monogenean worms) - 4 weeks
• Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) - 76 days
• Uronema marinum - No fallow period, as it does not require a fish host to survive. It is an opportunistic parasite that strikes when a fish’s immune system has been compromised. Uronema mainly affects damsels (especially chromis) and clownfish.
• Velvet (Amyloodinium) - 6 weeks

 

[brandon429]

It’s that the fish bring it in and spread it to others, into the system, agreed currently the system is disease free. If you bought already qt fish that would prevent need for fallow

 

[brandon429]

Getting a fish delivered today, drip acclamation?

I've read pros and cons of drip acclamation - I'm confused if I should do it or not. The fish was shipped about 15hrs ago. If I drip acclamate will it be exposed to ammonia high enough to cause an issue? What's the alternative method?

www.reef2reef.com

hey let’s track his thread to see where the pre qt fish came from that’s what you need

 

[Nargard]

Yep for sure, but then we get into fish disease. That automatically opts out of fallow. This tends to be ok for clowns, but not for eventual mixed fish

starting with some corals and clean up crew is different because you can build them up as you fallow and prepare for fish, if that’s the mode you are choosing. There is no feed additive, garlic support, or water treatment in-tank that will prevent disease, it’s fallow and qt

source for the claim- any current post here:

Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnosis

A forum for discussing treatment and diagnosing saltwater reef fish.

www.reef2reef.com

*eighty posters might be quick to pounce my claims against selcon or garlic or bottled dosers, Id redirect into the fish disease forum where those items are not stickies, they’re not handling the daily work. Isolation, fallow, qt is.

Paul B has an ocean water, ocean refreshed substrate system that wards off disease using oceanic live sources and all live food. Since your tank is opposite of that, it wasn’t planned for your tanks trajectory.


as soon as non fallow and qt works in pattern, we will see it being used there not just as a testimonial which is the sole driver for those supplements

Hey Brandon. I have a bit of time before I can get my clown so I am just continuing to test out of curiosity. Today I finally had nitrite levels. Here is what I have. Is this what you would expect?