1st sump plumbed, do you see any issues?

Marine2149

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I'm planning on using my 24 gallon AIO tank as a sump since it's the only thing I can fit under my tank.

I was wondering if it could work routing overflow down the pre-made baffles in the back. I drew a picture of what the baffles are like. They have slits at the bottom of the baffles which I think can handle my HOB overflow which is 800gph.

What do you guys think. Should I just block these off. I intend to make chambers in the display portion and I was thinking this could be good if I put some mechanical/chemical filtration there.

My concern was overflowing since I'm not sure if 800gph is to much for those small chamber to handle. Anyways.

Do you guys see any issues with my plumbing. This is the first sump Ive ever put together.

Thanks for the input guys.
 
IMG_20220415_081928.jpg
 
So if your water line is lower then those back entry ports this should work.
 
One baffle between the pump and skimmer will help your display avoid micro bubbles from that skimmer.
 
I'm planning on using my 24 gallon AIO tank as a sump since it's the only thing I can fit under my tank.

I was wondering if it could work routing overflow down the pre-made baffles in the back. I drew a picture of what the baffles are like. They have slits at the bottom of the baffles which I think can handle my HOB overflow which is 800gph.

What do you guys think. Should I just block these off. I intend to make chambers in the display portion and I was thinking this could be good if I put some mechanical/chemical filtration there.

My concern was overflowing since I'm not sure if 800gph is to much for those small chamber to handle. Anyways.

Do you guys see any issues with my plumbing. This is the first sump Ive ever put together.

Thanks for the input guys.
Are you using Pex?
 
IMG_20220415_091346.jpg
Top view of how it's should work.

You think I should just buy a setup. I prefer to innovate if possible with what I got. Money is short. Is there no way to make this work?
 
Had to look up what PEX was. No I will be using PVC. PEX will be used on the last part before the return pump. Read that this helps keep vibration and noise down.

PEX is to rigid to reduce vibration you need flex tubing. I prefer silicone
 
Had to look up what PEX was. No I will be using PVC. PEX will be used on the last part before the return pump. Read that this helps keep vibration and noise down.
What will you be using for fittings for the PEX? I am not aware of any that are salt safe.

A thought for you on flex(ish) tubing. Use SpaFlex instead. This can be glued like regular PVC.

Also a note PEX believe it or not is actually PVC. :) FWIW.
 
If you're set on this design with the water change valve those flex returns need to be set to the appropriate water depth for water changes, as in mark the 10/25/50% water mark. Put another valve on the other side of the of the hose hook up for water change. This way you can empty both DT and/or sump.

Also when your filling this, make an annotation of the exact water volume you end up putting in. Saves guess work if you dose and use other water volume based chems.
 
If you're set on this design with the water change valve those flex returns need to be set to the appropriate water depth for water changes, as in mark the 10/25/50% water mark. Put another valve on the other side of the of the hose hook up for water change. This way you can empty both DT and/or sump.

Also when your filling this, make an annotation of the exact water volume you end up putting in. Saves guess work if you dose and use other water volume based chems.
Thanks for the advice. I'll hit the drawling board for this.
 

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