2 clownfish in a day old tank

[brandon429]

these fish should immediately be given back to the pet store as you get the tank dynamics setup. do not buy the coral, get tank dynamics set first. I'm out here.

 

[brandon429]

-

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

since you're not joking, that may be the most offensive comment I'll read all week

since you're not joking, that may be the most offensive comment I'll read all week lol.

Not joking about what? Confused on what was offensive ?

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

these fish should immediately be given back to the pet store as you get the tank dynamics setup. do not buy the coral, get tank dynamics set first. I'm out here.

They look fine to me so far they are eating they are active clownfish are very hardy...everyone uses damsels to cycle a tank why couldn’t I use clownfish? Maybe you didn’t know clownfish are damsels

 

[Rick's Reviews]

Yes I'm a little confused @brandon429 comments as well :/

 

[Rick's Reviews]

So if you added Dr Tim's (I have not used this myself) I am only assuming the ammonia would spike or go up due to overfeeding or filling with more fish, I'm sure that with any bottled bacteria you/us need to create or add amonia to get cycle started, I'm sure your two fish are creating very little so I would just be patient

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

Yes I'm a little confused @brandon429 comments as well :

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

So if you added Dr Tim's (I have not used this myself) I am only assuming the ammonia would spike or go up due to overfeeding or filling with more fish, I'm sure that with any bottled bacteria you/us need to create or add amonia to get cycle started, I'm sure your two fish are creating very little so I would just be patient

Ty sir! I’ll keep everyone posted !

 

[Aqua Man]

Last question sorry lol now I know when water evaporates salt is left behind ...can I top off with the pre mixed saltwater I been using (bc the salinity should be the same) or should I use rodi water ....will the salinity go up if the water being added is the same salinity ? Or will the salinity go up?

Are you saying that your salinity is low and want to top off with saltwater??

 

[brandon429]

It’s not ok nor fair to the fish to be figuring this out with them in the tank. Take them back two days ago.


there is an acceptable learning curve in reefing and this thread isn’t ok at all as a learning curve, it’s unacceptable in fact. Nobody from any pet store or any post online said to set this tank up without knowing basic care standards


if this was a dog forum and the equivalent actions were done with little puppies everyone would be in a tiff.


am understanding there’s a learning curve you just don’t get to own fish while on the curve

when I was learning I bought one clavularia frag and added it to a skip cycle test pico w one live rock, no fish.

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

It’s not ok nor fair to the fish to be figuring this out with them in the tank. Take them back two days ago.


there is an acceptable learning curve in reefing and this thread isn’t ok at all as a learning curve, it’s unacceptable in fact. Nobody from any pet store or any post online said to set this tank up without knowing basic care standards


if this was a dog forum and the equivalent actions were done with little puppies everyone would be in a tiff.


am understanding there’s a learning curve you just don’t get to own fish while on the curve

when I was learning I bought one clavularia frag and added it to a skip cycle test pico w one live rock, no fish.

the clowns are fine swimming around a lot very active eating like pigs no signs of any distress I’ve had 6 clowns (which people said was impossible only 2 clowns in one tank blah blah ) in my last 75 gallon for 6 years they never fought all got along ...they’re not being tortured lol ....I think a lot of people think they’re marine biologist ....so if my clowns die I’ll tell you I was wrong but I bet they wont

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

It’s not ok nor fair to the fish to be figuring this out with them in the tank. Take them back two days ago.


there is an acceptable learning curve in reefing and this thread isn’t ok at all as a learning curve, it’s unacceptable in fact. Nobody from any pet store or any post online said to set this tank up without knowing basic care standards


if this was a dog forum and the equivalent actions were done with little puppies everyone would be in a tiff.


am understanding there’s a learning curve you just don’t get to own fish while on the curve

when I was learning I bought one clavularia frag and added it to a skip cycle test pico w one live rock, no fish.

I’ve had a 75 gallon mixed reef tank see my pics above it was a beauty so I do have some basic knowledge And technically my lfs said that the nutri pre mixed saltwater it is ok to add fish right away and dr tims claims that also for their live bacteria soooo yea things look great right now I’m not saying that can’t change I’m sure I’ll have parameter swings (maybe not) but if I see the clowns in any distress I’ll pull them out but as of right now no signs of labored breathing shaking of head nothing like that

 

[Soren]

Last question sorry lol now I know when water evaporates salt is left behind ...can I top off with the pre mixed saltwater I been using (bc the salinity should be the same) or should I use rodi water ....will the salinity go up if the water being added is the same salinity ? Or will the salinity go up?

Salinity will absolutely go up by replacing evaporated water (zero salinity) with saltwater. The salt left behind by evaporation will still be in the tank, so salinity will go up proportionally to the total amount of salt in added saltwater, even if the salinity of the added water is the same as what you intend your tank salinity to be. The evaporation process only removes water and leaves salt behind, while adding saltwater adds salt and water to replace the evaporated water (only).
Think about water (W) and salt (S) as variables.
Adding initial saltwater is W + S, evaporation is -W, adding RO/DI or tap water is +W, adding saltwater is +W + S.
So, the equation for evaporation replaced with RO/DI water is:
W + S - W + W = W + S (original salinity)
For adding saltwater for evaporation replacement, the equation is:
W + S - W + W + S = W + 2S (raised salinity), W + 2S - W + W + S = W + 3S (raised salinity even higher), and so on for each time you replace evaporation with saltwater.

Edit: Of course, the increase in salinity would not be double, triple, as could be taken from my equations above, since the added salt would be proportional to the percentage of total volume in the water volume added for top-off. Salinity would actually climb slowly, but eventually would have detrimental effects.

This is one of the most basic principles to understand for keeping a saltwater tank and should have been understood before lives are at risk. I am guessing this was your comment that made @brandon429 concerned with your general level of marine aquarium knowledge.

 

[brandon429]

I didn’t have any nitrite battles to huff at today and needed a sub


we all start somewhere agreed, I did kill that clavularia frag eventually but not the second one. Best to save fish until after basics and even a few weeks after setup you’ll have salinity temp and water prep challenges to attend

such as bubbles on your swingarm, you input saltwater so low in salt goldfish would be happy in it. This happened to me not long ago really there are issues beyond just the bottle bac catchup.

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

Salinity will absolutely go up by replacing evaporated water (zero salinity) with saltwater. The salt left behind by evaporation will still be in the tank, so salinity will go up proportionally to the total amount of salt in added saltwater, even if the salinity of the added water is the same as what you intend your tank salinity to be. The evaporation process only removes water and leaves salt behind, while adding saltwater adds salt and water to replace the evaporated water (only).
Think about water (W) and salt (S) as variables.
Adding initial saltwater is W + S, evaporation is -W, adding RO/DI or tap water is +W, adding saltwater is +W + S.
So, the equation for evaporation replaced with RO/DI water is:
W + S - W + W = W + S (original salinity)
For adding saltwater for evaporation replacement, the equation is:
W + S - W + W + S = W + 2S (raised salinity), W + 2S - W + W + S = W + 3S (raised salinity even higher), and so on for each time you replace evaporation with saltwater.

Edit: Of course, the increase in salinity would not be double, triple, as could be taken from my equations above, since the added salt would be proportional to the percentage of total volume in the water volume added for top-off. Salinity would actually climb slowly, but eventually would have detrimental effects.

This is one of the most basic principles to understand for keeping a saltwater tank and should have been understood before lives are at risk. I am guessing this was your comment that made @brandon429 concerned with your general level of marine aquarium knowledge.

No I know this I shouldn’t of asked just the difference in my last tank I had a sump fill line so when I needed to top off I knew exactly how much to add with this kinda setup I’m still weirded out by it? But my sumps coming next week

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

I didn’t have any nitrite battles to huff at today and needed a sub


we all start somewhere agreed, I did kill that clavularia frag eventually but not the second one. Best to save fish until after basics and even a few weeks after setup you’ll have salinity temp and water prep challenges to attend

such as bubbles on your swingarm, you input saltwater so low in salt goldfish would be happy in it. This happened to me not long ago really there are issues beyond just the bottle bac catchup.

The bubbles on the swinggarm I’m c

Salinity will absolutely go up by replacing evaporated water (zero salinity) with saltwater. The salt left behind by evaporation will still be in the tank, so salinity will go up proportionally to the total amount of salt in added saltwater, even if the salinity of the added water is the same as what you intend your tank salinity to be. The evaporation process only removes water and leaves salt behind, while adding saltwater adds salt and water to replace the evaporated water (only).
Think about water (W) and salt (S) as variables.
Adding initial saltwater is W + S, evaporation is -W, adding RO/DI or tap water is +W, adding saltwater is +W + S.
So, the equation for evaporation replaced with RO/DI water is:
W + S - W + W = W + S (original salinity)
For adding saltwater for evaporation replacement, the equation is:
W + S - W + W + S = W + 2S (raised salinity), W + 2S - W + W + S = W + 3S (raised salinity even higher), and so on for each time you replace evaporation with saltwater.

Edit: Of course, the increase in salinity would not be double, triple, as could be taken from my equations above, since the added salt would be proportional to the percentage of total volume in the water volume added for top-off. Salinity would actually climb slowly, but eventually would have detrimental effects.

This is one of the most basic principles to understand for keeping a saltwater tank and should have been understood before lives are at risk. I am guessing this was your comment that made @brandon429 concerned with your general level of marine aquarium knowledge.

I didn’t have any nitrite battles to huff at today and needed a sub


we all start somewhere agreed, I did kill that clavularia frag eventually but not the second one. Best to save fish until after basics and even a few weeks after setup you’ll have salinity temp and water prep challenges to attend

such as bubbles on your swingarm, you input saltwater so low in salt goldfish would be happy in it. This happened to me not long ago really there are issues beyond just the bottle bac catchup.

But my salinity is at 1,027 n ammonia is at 0 at the moment I also bought a 8 pound live rock that’s been cycling for 8 months from my lfs and boy that little thing was freaking 55 dollars it better help lol

 

[Soren]

No I know this I shouldn’t of asked just the difference in my last tank I had a sump fill line so when I needed to top off I knew exactly how much to add with this kinda setup I’m still weirded out by it? But my sumps coming next week

Regardless of sump or not, you need to maintain the water level in the tank (and/or sump). In my current 75-gallon FOWLR without a sump, I have a few indication marks (equipment mounts on back of tank partially submerged, depth of HOB skimmer inlet and outlet, mark on outside of tank) that I use to know how much RO/DI water to add to replace evaporated water. I also check salinity occasionally in case of accidental drift or shifts during water changes.

The main difference with a sump is that the display tank and most sump compartments will always be kept at a certain level due to water flow, while the return chamber is the one that will lower as water evaporates. The marks for refilling evaporation should be on this chamber since the others are all fixed based on flow rate. Note that different flow rates can affect water levels in other chambers, so salinity should be checked whenever changing cycle flows to ensure accuracy of your marks.

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

Regardless of sump or not, you need to maintain the water level in the tank (and/or sump). In my current 75-gallon FOWLR without a sump, I have a few indication marks (equipment mounts on back of tank partially submerged, depth of HOB skimmer inlet and outlet, mark on outside of tank) that I use to know how much RO/DI water to add to replace evaporated water. I also check salinity occasionally in case of accidental drift or shifts during water changes.

The main difference with a sump is that the display tank and most sump compartments will always be kept at a certain level due to water flow, while the return chamber is the one that will lower as water evaporates. The marks for refilling evaporation should be on this chamber since the others are all fixed based on flow rate. Note that different flow rates can affect water levels in other chambers, so salinity should be checked whenever changing cycle flows to ensure accuracy of your marks.

Smart info ...yea my last tank I just knew it was time to top off bc my pump for loud my salinity stayed constant that way never really changed in years

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

Regardless of sump or not, you need to maintain the water level in the tank (and/or sump). In my current 75-gallon FOWLR without a sump, I have a few indication marks (equipment mounts on back of tank partially submerged, depth of HOB skimmer inlet and outlet, mark on outside of tank) that I use to know how much RO/DI water to add to replace evaporated water. I also check salinity occasionally in case of accidental drift or shifts during water changes.

The main difference with a sump is that the display tank and most sump compartments will always be kept at a certain level due to water flow, while the return chamber is the one that will lower as water evaporates. The marks for refilling evaporation should be on this chamber since the others are all fixed based on flow rate. Note that different flow rates can affect water levels in other chambers, so salinity should be checked whenever changing cycle flows to ensure accuracy of your marks.

But right now all I got is a filter lol n a power head heater that’s it sadly I’m still waiting on shipment

 

[Soren]

Smart info ...yea my last tank I just knew it was time to top off bc my pump for loud my salinity stayed constant that way never really changed in years

Pump getting loud may be a dangerous indicator meaning that water level in the return chamber is getting dangerously low. I would recommend setting a water level in the return chamber in your sump (when you get it) to be high enough to avoid the pump becoming more noisy before refilling.

But right now all I got is a filter lol n a power head heater that’s it sadly I’m still waiting on shipment

A HOB filter can work fine for lower bioloads, but most seem to move away from them eventually for better methods on a reef tank (including a sump). Maintenance of the filter is key, so, due to easier access, a HOB filter may be better for some than even a cannister filter.