2 questions on water

[Dominic M]

Hi I'm a noob. I posted a thread a few weeks ago on asking if I could use my kinetico k5 (RO system I use for drinking water) for my saltwater tank. I was to to test the TDS so I got a tds meter and it reads 12 is that good? Also I got a kh test from api and it says put in drops till it turns yellow and mine keeps getting more blue so if anyone uses that kit help me out with dirrections a bit. Thanks for responses : )

 

[Pistondog]

Hi I'm a noob. I posted a thread a few weeks ago on asking if I could use my kinetico k5 (RO system I use for drinking water) for my saltwater tank. I was to to test the TDS so I got a tds meter and it reads 12 is that good? Also I got a kh test from api and it says put in drops till it turns yellow and mine keeps getting more blue so if anyone uses that kit help me out with dirrections a bit. Thanks for responses : )

Most reefers shoot for 0 tds, but if fish only, you're probably ok.

 

[Dominic M]

Most reefers shoot for 0 tds, but if fish only, you're probably ok.

Im planning to start with a pair of clowns and then get some easy corals a couple months, after should I just a rodi system before I add corals?

 

[JAC-]

I am very familiar with that unit, I work for Kinetico.
If you were to add a deionizer behind the unit, it should get you the rest of the way there. The unit is not designed to be used for this purpose, but will work. I would recommend keeping an eye on the free chlorine level periodically. The carbon filters are designed to meet different specifications than aquarium needs and 100% chlorine removal is not a requirement.

For anyone that cares, chlorine removal filter capacity for drinking water is mandated by a minimum of a 50% reduction.

Again, the deionizer would help with and chlorine that may bleed through.

 

[Ippyroy]

Im planning to start with a pair of clowns and then get some easy corals a couple months, after should I just a rodi system before I add corals?

The question is what are those 12. My tap water has a TDS of 22. That is a low number, but the 22 is made of high levels of copper which would kill all invertebrates. It also has a bit of radon and a not tiny amount of uranium. You should not base needing or not needing an RODI on TDS numbers unless you know what makes up the TDS.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Safe drinking water from RO for human consumption should be aquarium safe.
As an assurance, take a water sample to an LFS you trust and have them test the ph and ammonia for you. Those numbers will give you the assurance

 

[Dominic M]

I am very familiar with that unit, I work for Kinetico.
If you were to add a deionizer behind the unit, it should get you the rest of the way there. The unit is not designed to be used for this purpose, but will work. I would recommend keeping an eye on the free chlorine level periodically. The carbon filters are designed to meet different specifications than aquarium needs and 100% chlorine removal is not a requirement.

For anyone that cares, chlorine removal filter capacity for drinking water is mandated by a minimum of a 50% reduction.

Again, the deionizer would help with and chlorine that may bleed through.

Awesome ill look into that thanks!

 

[Dominic M]

The question is what are those 12. My tap water has a TDS of 22. That is a low number, but the 22 is made of high levels of copper which would kill all invertebrates. It also has a bit of radon and a not tiny amount of uranium. You should not base needing or not needing an RODI on TDS numbers unless you know what makes up the TDS.

How would I find what makes up the TDS?

 

[Dominic M]

Safe drinking water from RO for human consumption should be aquarium safe.
As an assurance, take a water sample to an LFS you trust and have them test the ph and ammonia for you. Those numbers will give you the assurance

Ok good, also tested ammonia, nitrate, nitrite and they were all 0 and ph is somewhere around 8.2

 

[cmoore806]

My understanding is that the drinking water systems are only RO, not RODI. Thats an important differentiation to make. I believe a lot of reefers abbreviate RODI by calling it RO water but the additional DI is important.

Pure water is a base element to a successful reef tank. I wouldn't cut corners, but that is just me. I am not willing to make compromises in something so important to the entire reef system.

 

[Dominic M]

My understanding is that the drinking water systems are only RO, not RODI. Thats an important differentiation to make. I believe a lot of reefers abbreviate RODI by calling it RO water but the additional DI is important.

Pure water is a base element to a successful reef tank. I wouldn't cut corners, but that is just me. I am not willing to make compromises in something so important to the entire reef system.

What is the difference between RO and RODI?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Iused RO water for years before adding DI with success as is the case with many. RO is good as mentioned what it does below. The difference is, RO (reverse osmosis) and DI (deionized) water systems ensure the best quality water. Their primary role is to remove particles, toxins, and various other contaminants from water. This is also their main advantage.
The systems mainly remove lead, salt, mercury, asbestos, copper, etc. in addition to this, DI water system adds hydrogen to water which means that it acts as a water softener.

 

[JAC-]

Safe drinking water from RO for human consumption should be aquarium safe.
As an assurance, take a water sample to an LFS you trust and have them test the ph and ammonia for you. Those numbers will give you the assurance

I feel like this may be a bit generic, one example would be chlorine up to 5ppm is safe for human consumption, but that would kill everything in your tank.

I do understand your point, but without the knowledge of things that many of us know to avoid it could easily be misunderstood.

However, as a speculation to what may be in the source water, the remaining TDS very well could cause no issues.

 

[JAC-]

Iused RO water for years before adding DI with success as is the case with many. RO is good as mentioned what it does below. The difference is, RO (reverse osmosis) and DI (deionized) water systems ensure the best quality water. Their primary role is to remove particles, toxins, and various other contaminants from water. This is also their main advantage.
The systems mainly remove lead, salt, mercury, asbestos, copper, etc. in addition to this, DI water system adds hydrogen to water which means that it acts as a water softener.

Well said vetteguy.

 

[Dominic M]

Iused RO water for years before adding DI with success as is the case with many. RO is good as mentioned what it does below. The difference is, RO (reverse osmosis) and DI (deionized) water systems ensure the best quality water. Their primary role is to remove particles, toxins, and various other contaminants from water. This is also their main advantage.
The systems mainly remove lead, salt, mercury, asbestos, copper, etc. in addition to this, DI water system adds hydrogen to water which means that it acts as a water softener.

Thanks, so should I go ahead and use this water for now and then get a deionizer or RODI system later or should I get it now? Also know anything about my 2nd question I asked about kh?

 

[JAC-]

On the kh test,

I would expect you to need anywhere from 7 to 11 drops before it turns color. The amount of drops you add until it changes color is what your kh is on degrees kn. So expect 7-11. It could be higher.

I would recommend using a different companies test as I had an api kit that was off by over 100%. That is certainly up to you.

The test should be performed by placing 5ml of sample water into the tube. Filling to the white line about halfway up. Adding one drop and shaking the solution after adding each drop. Count the number of drops you add until it changes color and the number of drops is your KH.

What are you getting?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thanks, so should I go ahead and use this water for now and then get a deionizer or RODI system later or should I get it now? Also know anything about my 2nd question I asked about kh?

DI would not hurt. It is safer than tap and i would use it if It was my unit

 

[Dominic M]

On the kh test,

I would expect you to need anywhere from 7 to 11 drops before it turns color. The amount of drops you add until it changes color is what your kh is on degrees kn. So expect 7-11. It could be higher.

I would recommend using a different companies test as I had an api kit that was off by over 100%. That is certainly up to you.

The test should be performed by placing 5ml of sample water into the tube. Filling to the white line about halfway up. Adding one drop and shaking the solution after adding each drop. Count the number of drops you add until it changes color and the number of drops is your KH.

What are you getting?

Thanks for the help ill go test it again and let you know. Also many people say Api tests are fine and many people say there bad so I just got it because it was cheap and I already have their saltwater master test kit.

 

[JAC-]

Thanks for the help ill go test it again and let you know. Also many people say Api tests are fine and many people say there bad so I just got it because it was cheap and I already have their saltwater master test kit.

I used them for 20 years in freshwater without ever thinking about anything else.
I had zero problems related to the test kits. Since moving to reef tanks on my first reef tank the new KH kit I bought read 14 DKH, and I was fighting keeping the ph above 7.8 no matter what I did.

It defied all my experience and was driving me crazy. I finally got a new test kit and found my KH was actually 6.

Maybe an over reaction on my part, but I threw out all my api stuff and bought all redsea kits for the salt and fluval for the fresh.

That's just me though, as long as you realize that your test kits may be wrong and check them periodically, it shouldn't matter. Plenty of people use api and have success. There is no reason you can't either.

High end stuff is nice, and once you get used to it, you forget how to do without. That doesn't mean it can't be done though.

When you get the cash and have some coral I highly recommend the redsea foundation kit, but rock what works for you and your tank/life.

You're welcome friend.

 

[Dominic M]

I used them for 20 years in freshwater without ever thinking about anything else.
I had zero problems related to the test kits. Since moving to reef tanks on my first reef tank the new KH kit I bought read 14 DKH, and I was fighting keeping the ph above 7.8 no matter what I did.

It defied all my experience and was driving me crazy. I finally got a new test kit and found my KH was actually 6.

Maybe an over reaction on my part, but I threw out all my api stuff and bought all redsea kits for the salt and fluval for the fresh.

That's just me though, as long as you realize that your test kits may be wrong and check them periodically, it shouldn't matter. Plenty of people use api and have success. There is no reason you can't either.

High end stuff is nice, and once you get used to it, you forget how to do without. That doesn't mean it can't be done though.

When you get the cash and have some coral I highly recommend the redsea foundation kit, but rock what works for you and your tank/life.

You're welcome friend.

In the future ill definitely be upgrading equipment so ill look into a redsea test kit, so I tested it and got 12 is that good or bad?