I've done it a few ways... The easiest is with a stop sleeve (need crimping tool) and stainless steel bolt & nut. Simply crimp the wire and insert bolt into joining plate. I no longer use "buttons" on top of the joining plates since the were decorative anyway and I've switched to a coated steel wire.
Thank you very much.I've done it a few ways... The easiest is with a stop sleeve (need crimping tool) and stainless steel bolt & nut. Simply crimp the wire and insert bolt into joining plate. I no longer use "buttons" on top of the joining plates since the were decorative anyway and I've switched to a coated steel wire.
Just a heads up, this isn't a DIY weekend warrior project. I usually get the tanks in rough shape, break them down, clean, measure cut, measure and cut again, drill, caulk, listen to wife complain there is no room in the garage etc. From start to finish it takes over a month sometimes two. In the end you can have a custom tank and save a couple grand if you don't mind the work. I've built one tank where it has a built in drain, turn a gate value and it drains 60g. in a few minutes making water changes a breeze. One of these days I'll add a build to my profile.
Good luck on your build and happy reefing.
Sorry to hijack this butEuro brace is an option, I think cables and L channel give the tank a more modern/industrial look. Not to mention much easier to obtain and cut material. Aluminum channels can be found at any hardware store... Aluminum Angle Bar I usually reseal large tanks 6ft or larger, depending on the size tank they have different lengths and thickness. As for the cross braces... Galvanized Steel Cable Wire Rope works well, again different gauges of wire and different lengths. There are kits you can buy but there is a section were they will cut the individual gauge and length for you. Stay away from the sealed Stainless Steel Vinyl Coated Wire because its difficult to work with. Joining plates are used to attach the cables and L angles together, again different sizes, shapes and thickness. I use J-B Weld Professional to adhere the joining plates to the L angles. Anything over 3500 tensile strength, they have a quick weld that I have never tried but should work. I work on tanks in the garage so be check the proper temps when it can be applied. Then some generic black oxide, nickel or zinc tops (cant remember) non rust for the top of the plates. Purely aesthetics. Here are a few more photos. One of my own built tank using low iron glass. If this helps anyone give me thumbs up. Thanks
Sorry to hijack this but I just received a new 210g and I've been looking far and wide on how to reinforce my cracked braces and your builds are exactly what I've been looking for.Euro brace is an option, I think cables and L channel give the tank a more modern/industrial look. Not to mention much easier to obtain and cut material. Aluminum channels can be found at any hardware store... Aluminum Angle Bar I usually reseal large tanks 6ft or larger, depending on the size tank they have different lengths and thickness. As for the cross braces... Galvanized Steel Cable Wire Rope works well, again different gauges of wire and different lengths. There are kits you can buy but there is a section were they will cut the individual gauge and length for you. Stay away from the sealed Stainless Steel Vinyl Coated Wire because its difficult to work with. Joining plates are used to attach the cables and L angles together, again different sizes, shapes and thickness. I use J-B Weld Professional to adhere the joining plates to the L angles. Anything over 3500 tensile strength, they have a quick weld that I have never tried but should work. I work on tanks in the garage so be check the proper temps when it can be applied. Then some generic black oxide, nickel or zinc tops (cant remember) non rust for the top of the plates. Purely aesthetics. Here are a few more photos. One of my own built tank using low iron glass. If this helps anyone give me thumbs up. Thanks
Sorry to hijack but I just got myself a 210g with cracked braces/frame and I've been looking everywhere for replacements but can't find any.Euro brace is an option, I think cables and L channel give the tank a more modern/industrial look. Not to mention much easier to obtain and cut material. Aluminum channels can be found at any hardware store... Aluminum Angle Bar I usually reseal large tanks 6ft or larger, depending on the size tank they have different lengths and thickness. As for the cross braces... Galvanized Steel Cable Wire Rope works well, again different gauges of wire and different lengths. There are kits you can buy but there is a section were they will cut the individual gauge and length for you. Stay away from the sealed Stainless Steel Vinyl Coated Wire because its difficult to work with. Joining plates are used to attach the cables and L angles together, again different sizes, shapes and thickness. I use J-B Weld Professional to adhere the joining plates to the L angles. Anything over 3500 tensile strength, they have a quick weld that I have never tried but should work. I work on tanks in the garage so be check the proper temps when it can be applied. Then some generic black oxide, nickel or zinc tops (cant remember) non rust for the top of the plates. Purely aesthetics. Here are a few more photos. One of my own built tank using low iron glass. If this helps anyone give me thumbs up. Thanks
Rivets weren't used, just decorative caps from screws. (buttons) They filled the holes were the joining plates and angle bar meet. I've replaced the galvanized wire with a vinyl coated one. A little more difficult to deal with but not subject to corrosion. Have you tried to repair your frame? Possibly just mend the cracked pieces together? There are places that also make custom frames, might be cheaper with less work involved. Here a a couple links, hope it helps with your project. Custom Aquarium Frames & Broken Cross brace
It's been a few years now how are these tanks holding up? I just got a bow front 150 gal with no top support. I'm planning on using your designs to build one.Euro brace is an option, I think cables and L channel give the tank a more modern/industrial look. Not to mention much easier to obtain and cut material. Aluminum channels can be found at any hardware store... Aluminum Angle Bar I usually reseal large tanks 6ft or larger, depending on the size tank they have different lengths and thickness. As for the cross braces... Galvanized Steel Cable Wire Rope works well, again different gauges of wire and different lengths. There are kits you can buy but there is a section were they will cut the individual gauge and length for you. Stay away from the sealed Stainless Steel Vinyl Coated Wire because its difficult to work with. Joining plates are used to attach the cables and L angles together, again different sizes, shapes and thickness. I use J-B Weld Professional to adhere the joining plates to the L angles. Anything over 3500 tensile strength, they have a quick weld that I have never tried but should work. I work on tanks in the garage so be check the proper temps when it can be applied. Then some generic black oxide, nickel or zinc tops (cant remember) non rust for the top of the plates. Purely aesthetics. Here are a few more photos. One of my own built tank using low iron glass. If this helps anyone give me thumbs up. Thanks
Ok, so I have a brand new Marineland 180g that has never seen water.
Applying anything adhesive to the cracks won't work. You will need to completely replace the brace or brace the brace if that makes sense. This video might give you an idea.
The Crack that it has its not across like the one in the video, it long ways...if that makes sense.
I was gonna use the clear one with a higher tensile strength but ill go with the black one instead then
www.aquariumframeswholesale.com
Thank you for the reply.Marineland should be the place for you to get a replacement Marineland frame. We dont carry replacement Marineland parts.
you could try
Over The Edge
Industry Leader in Wholesale Plastic Aquarium Tank Frames,Aquarium frames,Aquarium Lighting and Iron Stands
the real challenge is a plastic frame on a tank of this size. We get many calls for replacement frames on these larger tanks. We dont build large tanks with plastic frames, thats why we dont stock them.
good luck.
Hi, i know this thread is old but I am entirely invested. Question, did you drill holes in the aluminum angles for the jointing plate's screws?I've done it a few ways... The easiest is with a stop sleeve (need crimping tool) and stainless steel bolt & nut. Simply crimp the wire and insert bolt into joining plate. I no longer use "buttons" on top of the joining plates since the were decorative anyway and I've switched to a coated steel wire.
Just a heads up, this isn't a DIY weekend warrior project. I usually get the tanks in rough shape, break them down, clean, measure cut, measure and cut again, drill, caulk, listen to wife complain there is no room in the garage etc. From start to finish it takes over a month sometimes two. In the end you can have a custom tank and save a couple grand if you don't mind the work. I've built one tank where it has a built in drain, turn a gate value and it drains 60g. in a few minutes making water changes a breeze. One of these days I'll add a build to my profile.
Good luck on your build and happy reefing.
I didn't drill any holes, just used expoxy to joint the plates to the rails. To cut the angle bars just use a miter saw with a metal blade. The galvanized wire won't rust since it's vinyl coated. I think I applied a little caulk on were I snipped the wire. Good luck on your build.
