210 not even on stand

Yes that's my last name. The issue isnt with a leg is the top horizontal 2x6. It's slightly warped over the 6ft span.
 
Yes that's my last name. The issue isnt with a leg is the top horizontal 2x6. It's slightly warped over the 6ft span.

Well, those top horizontals are important to sight for straight, but I know that can be tough to get or make perfect.

I always do the 3/4" ply subtops as I already mentioned, glued and screwed securely usually stitches everything together and would most likely give you a flatter surface overall.

I know it's a bummer to pay for extra material, but it would help you, and I personally would make it big enough to cover the tops of those outside vertical 2x's, as I prefer to not have exposed end grain like that, it invites water and can warp or twist those over time.
 
I'm 100% with Dave on this. A simple plywood top will give you the option (if still needed) of shimming between the 2x's and the plywood.

I can't tell if it is there, but I would also strongly recommend plywood underneath the stand as well. That will allow you to seal the sump area so that the inevitable spills will be contained inside rather than spilling out onto your floor.
 
If you are confident the center is not going to sag under the load and don't want to do the plywood for height or aesthetic reasons, then go ahead and sand or plane down the excess wood.

The plywood suggested above is a good idea for perhaps making it easier to shim, however both techniques require that center post has a sure footing or they may sag.
 
I dont think the center will sag. I'm leaning towards cutting the plumbing and putting the tank upside down on 2x4 on the ground so I don't have to cut all the plumbing and going the plywood route. If I do that which plywood should I go with? OSB or sanded plywood from home depot?
 
I dont think the center will sag. I'm leaning towards cutting the plumbing and putting the tank upside down on 2x4 on the ground so I don't have to cut all the plumbing and going the plywood route. If I do that which plywood should I go with? OSB or sanded plywood from home depot?

Sanded veneered plywood might be poplar core which is no good around water.

As long as it's exterior grade you will be fine with OSB or Plywood, slight preference for plywood.
 
Yep that will work, it looks like SPF plywood (Spruce, Pine or Fur all woods high in resin)
 
Ok, heading to home depot soon. Should I use wood shims or composite shims?
 
Manufacturer of my 180 gallon tank requires 3/4" foam under it to keep warranty for this reason. And it is a trimmed tank.
 
Wood shims are fine. IMO

You can use foam if its the right type. I don't know which is is the one to use though. (One type compresses and stay compressed in spots creating pressure in others.)
 
From home depot
46859ea57d1d458829e9d674f117518a.jpg
 
For those of you that used the plywood method, did you screw the plywood down after shimming?
 
Playing cards is what I have used in the past
 
I put 3/4 ply on top of my stand with those linkable black squares of gym floor foam glued on top of it. I have a trimmed 125 sitting on it with no issues.
 
I dont think the center will sag. I'm leaning towards cutting the plumbing and putting the tank upside down on 2x4 on the ground so I don't have to cut all the plumbing and going the plywood route. If I do that which plywood should I go with? OSB or sanded plywood from home depot?
Billdogg has it said pretty well. Having the top of your frame "level" is one thing, but the 2 x 6 would likely need to be similar to a straight edge.

One way to a potentially achieve this is by ripping the edge, your top edge of the 2 x 6's, on a table saw prior to assembly or by using an edge planner/joint planner, which is a more specialized piece of equipment.

The 3/4 inch plywood is an excellent option and my choice hands down would be MDO (Medium Density Overlay) which you can typically find at your common hardware store.

MDO is an exterior grade plywood and is more expensive than most common plywoods. MDO is extremely flat and stable from the get go.

I would cut a piece of this plywood and shim any inconsistencies between your 2 x 6 frame and the plywood and then secure. You would be good to go.

Use a long level to verify it's straightness and consider using the long level on the bottom of your tank as well to verify if it true or not also.

Hope this helps!
 
Billdogg has it said pretty well. Having the top of your frame "level" is one thing, but the 2 x 6 would likely need to be similar to a straight edge.

One way to a potentially achieve this is by ripping the edge, your top edge of the 2 x 6's, on a table saw prior to assembly or by using an edge planner/joint planner, which is a more specialized piece of equipment.

The 3/4 inch plywood is an excellent option and my choice hands down would be MDO (Medium Density Overlay) which you can typically find at your common hardware store.

MDO is an exterior grade plywood and is more expensive than most common plywoods. MDO is extremely flat and stable from the get go.

I would cut a piece of this plywood and shim any inconsistencies between your 2 x 6 frame and the plywood and then secure. You would be good to go.

Use a long level to verify it's straightness and consider using the long level on the bottom of your tank as well to verify if it true or not also.

Hope this helps!
MDO Plywood & Memory Foam carpet padding.
Menards
Screenshot_20190218-080629.jpeg
Screenshot_20190218-080730.jpeg
 
If weight of tank does compress top, you're going to have that shim bumping up and it can cause serious issues, potential failure.

You should wait for other comments if you don't take my word, but I am a licensed general contractor that has specialized in cabinets and reef aquarium cabinets for many years.

No one I know would tell you to shim between tank and stand ever.
That is a big no no.
What about plywood top and stand?
 
Slight crowning up is fine. Fill the tank
 
3/4 Plywood on top Is your best and Proper solution.. If your framing is very bad you can always Apply construction adhesive on the entire top framing . Lay the plywood down , Using a straight edge torque down screws in the high areas until the whole thing is perfectly flat and planner .. . The other option is run the whole top of the stand thru a table saw. But this requires a bit more skill and BIG Saw..

When building something that requires a super planer surface i always run my lumber thru a planner or table saw to insure its true ...
 

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