220 diy stand

[Mstanker]

Looking into building my stand out of wood. I was thinking about using 4X4 post for the corners or even 6X6 post and 2x10's for the main beams. whats everyones thoughts on using post for the legs. Why my thoughts on the post are because i seen ppl use 2x4's and double up.

Can anyone post pictures of there stand that have big tanks. So i can get a idea. Thanks

 

[LBReefer]

Take a look at fishfinder’s build. I’d recommend the “standard” build vs 4x4s. It’ll give you more cross-support. I can send you picks of mine when I get home, but I used this design:

I added more cross supports and doubled up the 2x6’s that run lengthwise because I’m paranoid. I’ve built 3 of these and have had no issues.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Use the plan above. 4X4 or 6X6 should never be used.....too unstable....typically center cut of a tree...with twist, warp and move in directions you won't believe.

The rule for the above plan is tank up to four foot long, all dimensional wood are 2x4's. Over four feet, the top frame is 2x6's, all the rest, 2x4's. Highly recommend topping it with 3/4 plywood to level out the imperfections in the dimensional lumber. Also need to skin this beast with whatever floats your boat to keep it from racking.

Oh, and no center brace is needed.

Here is my skeleton of a stand for a five foot tank:

 

[Johnson556]

Finished the stand for my 180 about a month ago. Support is 10 2x4’s with a 3/4” plywood bolted to the back. Just the 2x4’s alone have a capacity of 6,360lbs before you factor in all the screws and plywood. Thing is plenty strong

 

[Greybeard]

Hi

From a strength standpoint, the 4x4 is plenty for corners. The plans you've seen that double up 2x4's are generally designed to enable them to be screwed together, with a direct load, rather than just as a doubled 2x4. If you look at those plans, one 2x4 is directly between the top and bottom rails, where weight pushes them together. The 2nd 2x4 runs above and below the horizontal rails, allowing you a surface to screw into, without trying to screw through a 3.5" tall beam, on edge.

4x4 and 2x6 is going to be plenty strong... provided you're not trying to run the entire 72" span without support. I probably wouldn't recommend that, regardless of the lumber dimension.

Before you get too far into this, you might consider a steel stand. 220 gallons of water is a lot of weight, and if something fails, it's enough water to be a real nightmare. When I was planning my 140g stand, I called a small local steel fab shop, sent them a drawing, and they built me a welded steel stand, 11 gauge, 1.5" square steel tube, for less than what I was going to have to spend on lumber to build it myself. A local powder coating company sand blasted and powder coated it for less than I'd have spent on paint. Steel is strong, stable, and allows for a much more open design than wood does. On bigger tanks, it can end up being the same, or even less, from a cost standpoint, than a nice wood stand. Once you've got a strong, stable stand, skinning it to look however you might want, since it's not structural, is fairly simple.

 

[Mstanker]

Is there any way to get away without using one of the center beams? I like not having a beam in front of my sump if possible.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Is there any way to get away without using one of the center beams? I like not having a beam in front of my sump if possible.

From above:

..........Oh, and no center brace is needed.....

 

[zieg9479]

There's no difference in resistance to shear resistance between a 4x4 corner post and the rocketengineer stand plans, provided you screw and glue the adjacent purple posts together. But as others said, you increase the chances of finding straighter boards and reduce weight when using 2by over 4by.

 

[Mstanker]

Alright so I spoke to a steel shop and for them to build the stand for around 500. I’d have a stronger stand and probably cheaper. Does any have any picture of there steel stands and if they were diy what size steel used. Thanks

 

[Holy_makerel]

Following. I've got a friend who is a welder and I've been kicking around the idea of a steel stand for my upcoming 120 build. Is it better to powdercoat or use a metal primer and seal with the appropriate paint? I only ask because I've seen powdercoated stands with rust issues

 

[Mstanker]

Yeah I asked the store and a 11gauge 1.5 steel square tubing is around 15 dollars. You’ll needs around 4. They are 20 ft. And a Welder. I don’t think you can buy the 2wood and screws for around there

 

[Mstanker]

Yeah I asked the store and a 11gauge 1.5 steel square tubing is around 15 dollars. You’ll needs around 4. They are 20 ft. And a Welder. I don’t think you can buy the 2wood and screws for around there

 

[cracker]

One can use primer & paint but will rust eventually. Mr Grey beard's stand is awesome. Only real way is to powder coat. Now Johnson556's 2by4 stand is just fine & very cost friendly. . A 6 foot tank needs a center brace front & back.

 

[SandJ]

Alright so I spoke to a steel shop and for them to build the stand for around 500. I’d have a stronger stand and probably cheaper. Does any have any picture of there steel stands and if they were diy what size steel used. Thanks

This is my 235 gallon 60”x30”x30” tank. Not a diy for me, original owner had it custom built (Tank and stand). In his build video he explained that it went into a corner and he had the front and right side left open for easy access.

 

[Mstanker]

Hey sandj, do you want a picture of everything set up and running. I like the braces only on one side and not in front

 

[SandJ]

Hey sandj, do you want a picture of everything set up and running. I like the braces only on one side and not in front

That is as far as I have made it in the set up process. Still recovering from having to move the tank lol I am still deciding the layout for the sump (on the floor, plywood under the tank, build a platform for the sump, or make a waterproof “tray” for the sump to sit in).
If you do a search for Mr Saltwater Tank 235 gallon you can get an idea of how it was set up.

 

[Mstanker]

K cool. Here’s my Ultimate sump build. I’d like to make a tray that you could slide in and out on rollers like a toolbox does.

 

[mrpizzaface]

K cool. Here’s my Ultimate sump build. I’d like to make a tray that you could slide in and out on rollers like a toolbox does.

I think you might find the cost for ball bearing slides that can accommodate the weight of a running sump to be outlandish. I think the sloshing of the water when sliding out would be annoying as well (and fight with the slide) The slides also add another point of failure, to an object filled with water. Don’t get me wrong I think it’s a cool idea, but I think it would cost a lot, and not be as functional as Intended.

 

[Johnson556]

In my experience (which is minimal) keeping things as simple as possible is best. I initially was going to set up my canopy on rails and actuators so it would raise/lower with a toggle switch.

I went to a friends house and saw how easy it was to manipulate his canopy that used two hinges and two 2x4's on the back. It opened like a clam shell. Turned a $300 project into a $6 project, very happy with the results.

 

[redfishbluefish]

.........I went to a friends house and saw how easy it was to manipulate his canopy that used two hinges and two 2x4's on the back. It opened like a clam shell. Turned a $300 project into a $6 project, very happy with the results.

Hey, not good enough!!!! We need pictures!