220 gal, i need some help with a diy led setup

[FloridaReefer]

Alright I have been reading this forum long enough and hello to all of you. I want to build a diy led fixture for my 220 gal. that I have been dying to set up (72long X 24wide X 30tall 3 24x24 sections braces in between) and I want to be able to grow anything in there, at least clams on the bottom. I also want a controller with the thunderstorm effect. Yes, most people say the thunderstorm is useless but I think it's pretty freeking cool. Anyways I need a few suggestions. I know I will get a few different answers but thank you all in advance. These are probably rookie questions but I gotta start somewhere.*

How many lights do I need?
What degree optics?
What heatsink/light/spacing configuration should I use?

Im sure I'll have more questions after I get a few answers. It's hard to get an answer searching all the different forums so I want to ask the experts myself.

 

[pmrossetti]

i'm sure reefledlights will offer great info here. been using their info myself.

probably 3 18"x8" heatsinks with 48 led kit for each. 80d optics. meanwell 48d drivers
cw and rb leds

let's see how close i came........

 

[GR808]

thunderstorm effect??? i need to see a video of that...

 

[GR808]

btw welcome to R2R...
this is what I did for my 125g.
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/led-lighting-specific/63489-another-led-build.html

 

[jaytizzle]

I'd do 3 18x8 heatsinks. I just built one with 6 "pucks" on it. Each puck consists of 1 Cree XM-L Neutral White, 2 Cree XP-E Royal Blue and 2 Cree XP-E Blue. Each color is independently controlled. The whites are driven by a 1750 mA Inventronics driver and the blues and royal blues are each driven by an Inventronics 700mA driver. It's super bright and provides an awesome amount of color control with each driver being dimmable.

 

[btkrausen]

I'm running a 220 right now, and this is my setup that I'm really enjoying.

3 x 24" heatsinks
36 LEDs each fixture 108 LEDs total
Each fixture consists of 2 x 12 LED series consisting of 8 cool white and 4 blue and another 12 LED series consisting of all blue. Each 12 LED series is on its own driver

 

[FloridaReefer]

Thanks for all your input! btk, what degree optics are you using?

 

[Onedesign1]

To determine the number of LED multiple the length by the width of your tank and divide by 16. Divide by a lower number for more intensity though its not needed. I recommend 16 though. so (72x24)/16=108. 108 LEDs. I also recommend 2 to 1 Royal Blue to white. 72RBs, 24 cool whites and 12 neutral whites...or half and half to warm it up.

For heatsinks I would look at 3 10" profiles, 20" long from heatsinkusa.com. Tie them together and make it into a fixture using aluminum angle from Home Depot.

Each sink I would do 4 rows of 9 LEDs for a total of 36 on each heatsink. 24 RBs and 12 whites on each one. Space the LEDs 2" apart and each row 3" apart if possible.

I like Meanwell drivers and recommend the HLG 185-42 for the blues - 6 strings of 12 LEDs will yield 733ma per string...perfect. Recommend the HLG 120-42 for the whites - 3 strings of 12 will yield just under 1000ma per string...also perfect.

Optics really depend how high your fixture will be above your water. I run 90 degree lenses over my 24" deep 120g and the fixture is 8 or 9" above the water. I keep acros, montis, pavona, birdsnest, zoa's, open brains, chalices, acan etc. the SPS is bottom 1/3 to the top of the tank. I keep a crocea clam on the sand bed.

60 or 70 degrees is where you will probably be though.

Lightening is a waste and though I'm not a fish whisperer I doubt they would like it very much. However I have seen video and its cool...they even have sound you can hook through your stereo for the thunder storm My recommendation is to just go sunrise/sunset basic controller though.

Hope that all helps some.

 

[GR808]

my DIY LED has no optics because I only have it about 4 inches above the water. I have some 70 degree optics but it was casting more of a spot action on my tank so I decided to leave the optics off. I have better light spread that way. Although u do get more par with the optics on but for me it is not needed because I am only running at about 50 percent intensity.

 

[Onedesign1]

my DIY LED has no optics because I only have it about 4 inches above the water. I have some 70 degree optics but it was casting more of a spot action on my tank so I decided to leave the optics off. I have better light spread that way. Although u do get more par with the optics on but for me it is not needed because I am only running at about 50 percent intensity.

Besides getting more PAR there are several other benefits to using optics such as more controlled shimmer and less disco ball effect. You will also find more even fill through the rocks and better contrasts as well....not to mention better penetration of that PAR for deeper tanks. IMO a wide open 120 degree optic is better than none.

 

[GR808]

I may have to consider wider optics... Thanks for that tip!!!

 

[wld1783]

GR808

You might want to consider using your current optics and simply tilt the heatsink towards the aquascaping and corals, you may have to position the heatsink slightly forward but we've fount that this technique maximizes the light with less spill on the glass or acrylic.

You can also use the optics on only the forward and maybe the rear LEDs with this technique and achieve good results

Less spill means less glass cleaning.

If you dont get the results you need you can always try a wider optic or none.

BTW Please DO NOT USE ANY THUNDERSTORM SIMULATIONS....It totally freaks out the fish and you will find your most expensive wrasse carpet surfing...

Bill