250 fish stock decisions/opinions

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So I can't exactly decide what fish I want in my 250 gallon, so I'm posting here to get some of your opinions on other fish i could add to my wish list.

Currently the tank has 2 young Picasso clowns, and a yellow coris wrasse

The only fish I know I want are a naso and clown tang.
I really do love tangs and I'd also like some more wrasses.
Maybe a yellow or blue tang and or a hybrid if I can get my hands on it.

So what do you guys think?
How about firefish? Large school of chromis?
Thanks
 
Here's what I would do (these are going in my display in a month)

Less the kuiters wrasse he didn't make it :(
Switch to 720P

 
Very nice fish, I have considered the achiles amd the powder blue, but not sure how many would be to much.
 
I strongly recommend putting the naso in first. They are big and peaceful for tangs and keep some of the "rowdier" tangs in check.

Firefish may get intimidated by large active fish.

Cool options might include marine betta, drachi soapfish, Genicanthus angels and wrasses of the genera Halichoeres, Macropharyngodon and larger Cirrhilabrus.

A group of anthias is also nice. I like dispars, ignitus, pulcherrimus, randalls and carberryi.
 
Very nice fish, I have considered the achiles amd the powder blue, but not sure how many would be to much.

You need flawless qt procedures and zero ich to keep Acanthurus tangs, especially Achilles and powders!
 
If I may ask, what is your QT process for tangs?
Would the tangs from the same genus work together? For example having a few tangs from the acanthurus genus including clown, orange shoulder etc?
What is your experience with having a pair or trio of yellow or blue tangs?
 
If I may ask, what is your QT process for tangs?
Would the tangs from the same genus work together? For example having a few tangs from the acanthurus genus including clown, orange shoulder etc?
What is your experience with having a pair or trio of yellow or blue tangs?

It's a crapshoot. What you don't see is the evil Achilles that didn't tolerate other Acanthurus so I now have two (moved other to an aggressive tank) and a smaller powder brown that I sold due to bullying and a hybrid PBT that got bullied to death (by the Achilles).

It can be done but you need a plan b and to be vigilant. IMO Acanthurus tangs aren't much harder to mix than zebrasoma but when things DO go wrong it's much more serious. There's a lot more variation in temperament. Orange shoulder are pretty mild. I had a clown tang with that group for 1 month without issue but sold him and opted for the Sohal.

Mixing zebrasoma is a bit easier and they tend to "forgive and forget". Acanthurus tangs do NOT. Particularly powder blue tangs and Achilles tangs that decide they don't like a fish or other fish. That's it. It won't subside. The exception is powder blues with each other, occasionally. If it's an all on war - it won't go away. But if it's sparring often but minimal or no damage it can take a month or so before they tolerate each other well.

For Acanthurus, add them at the same time, and they're the same size. Make your tank is 1000% parasite free because unlike zebrasoma, hippo, some naso tangs, and a few others, the Acanthurus genus can not build a resistance to it. They will eventually succumb if it has ever been in your system.

It may take a week, or a couple months. They'll be ich free for up to a couple weeks but no matter how great your water quality, how often or what you feed, etc. it won't matter. They'll slowly become emaciated because the ich will slowly take over and increasingly rob them of nutrients. They'll have obese bellies from nori and heavy feedings but their spine will show and they'll slowly waste away until they stop eating and die.

There are rare occasions, I kept an Achilles in a tank with ich (and a PBT) for about one year. They both came from another hobbyist who had them for three years prior. They still succumbed eventually. I'm embarrassed to admit that I was that bullheaded and I've killed many trying this.

Other tangs and species really can manage ich. Velvet though is far worse, and other parasites.

My qt procedure is 35 days copper at .5-.6 ppm (cupramine though). And I ran the tanks fallow where Acanthurus tangs will reside to starve the parasite for 72 days (still is progress).

I will also utilize Humblefish's method he does not yet endorse but it will work - 10 days copper as described above and then a tank transfer for 3 days treated with prazi. You can also start prazi for the last 3 days in qt as well. Since it's safe for use in dt reef tanks I'm OK risking it for only 6 days instead of the recommended 10 or so.

Stay away from amquel, prime, and other ammonia nitrate and nitrite detoxifiers while using copper, get a sea chem ammonia badge to detect ammonia during treatment because cupramine will mess up ammonia tests except this one, and do water changes as necessary to minimize ammonia.
 
It's a crapshoot. What you don't see is the evil Achilles that didn't tolerate other Acanthurus so I now have two (moved other to an aggressive tank) and a smaller powder brown that I sold due to bullying and a hybrid PBT that got bullied to death (by the Achilles).

It can be done but you need a plan b and to be vigilant. IMO Acanthurus tangs aren't much harder to mix than zebrasoma but when things DO go wrong it's much more serious. There's a lot more variation in temperament. Orange shoulder are pretty mild. I had a clown tang with that group for 1 month without issue but sold him and opted for the Sohal.

Mixing zebrasoma is a bit easier and they tend to "forgive and forget". Acanthurus tangs do NOT. Particularly powder blue tangs and Achilles tangs that decide they don't like a fish or other fish. That's it. It won't subside. The exception is powder blues with each other, occasionally. If it's an all on war - it won't go away. But if it's sparring often but minimal or no damage it can take a month or so before they tolerate each other well.

For Acanthurus, add them at the same time, and they're the same size. Make your tank is 1000% parasite free because unlike zebrasoma, hippo, some naso tangs, and a few others, the Acanthurus genus can not build a resistance to it. They will eventually succumb if it has ever been in your system.

It may take a week, or a couple months. They'll be ich free for up to a couple weeks but no matter how great your water quality, how often or what you feed, etc. it won't matter. They'll slowly become emaciated because the ich will slowly take over and increasingly rob them of nutrients. They'll have obese bellies from nori and heavy feedings but their spine will show and they'll slowly waste away until they stop eating and die.

There are rare occasions, I kept an Achilles in a tank with ich (and a PBT) for about one year. They both came from another hobbyist who had them for three years prior. They still succumbed eventually. I'm embarrassed to admit that I was that bullheaded and I've killed many trying this.

Other tangs and species really can manage ich. Velvet though is far worse, and other parasites.

My qt procedure is 35 days copper at .5-.6 ppm (cupramine though). And I ran the tanks fallow where Acanthurus tangs will reside to starve the parasite for 72 days (still is progress).

I will also utilize Humblefish's method he does not yet endorse but it will work - 10 days copper as described above and then a tank transfer for 3 days treated with prazi. You can also start prazi for the last 3 days in qt as well. Since it's safe for use in dt reef tanks I'm OK risking it for only 6 days instead of the recommended 10 or so.

Stay away from amquel, prime, and other ammonia nitrate and nitrite detoxifiers while using copper, get a sea chem ammonia badge to detect ammonia during treatment because cupramine will mess up ammonia tests except this one, and do water changes as necessary to minimize ammonia.
Ok, I may just stick to the clown to minimize risk of aggresion.
So if I'm reading your post correctly, its almost impossible to completely rid an acanthurus tang of ick?
So with all of the info, I might settle with a tang list including a naso, clown, blue, and a yellow or purple tang.
What is your opinion on a pair of blue or yellow tangs? Thanks for all the help.
 
Ok, I may just stick to the clown to minimize risk of aggresion.
So if I'm reading your post correctly, its almost impossible to completely rid an acanthurus tang of ick?
So with all of the info, I might settle with a tang list including a naso, clown, blue, and a yellow or purple tang.
What is your opinion on a pair of blue or yellow tangs? Thanks for all the help.

You can rid them of ich but they will not live in a tank that has ich. This doesn't mean that your fish don't show symptoms- if your fish ever showed ich in that tank (and you didn't properly treat that tank, or let that tank run fallow and 100% treat those fish with ich so you're not reintroducing it) then they will eventually die.

In an ich free system Acanthurus tangs are no more difficult than most other tangs IME. Achilles like it a little saltier and need more flow- can be harder to get eating than others but I've struggled with powder blues more than Achilles tangs honestly.

Some tangs can live with ich (you'll still kill some though so proper qt procedures are a good idea to minimize losses but it can be done). Just not Acanthurus tangs. Clown tangs are very very fragile with regards to ich. Just as susceptible as powders and Achilles.

I've killed other tangs trying to manage ich but perhaps 20-40% of my attempts died of ich when I tried ich management. (Still a horribly mean statistic I am embarrassed by).

Angels may struggle too. Most fragile species.

Also I've never had trouble mixing powders or Achilles with Sohal or clown tangs. They seem different enough in shape and size that it's a non issue IME. But an aggressive specimen of either group can change all of that easily.
 
You can rid them of ich but they will not live in a tank that has ich. This doesn't mean that your fish don't show symptoms- if your fish ever showed ich in that tank (and you didn't properly treat that tank, or let that tank run fallow and 100% treat those fish with ich so you're not reintroducing it) then they will eventually die.

In an ich free system Acanthurus tangs are no more difficult than most other tangs IME. Achilles like it a little saltier and need more flow- can be harder to get eating than others but I've struggled with powder blues more than Achilles tangs honestly.

Some tangs can live with ich (you'll still kill some though so proper qt procedures are a good idea to minimize losses but it can be done). Just not Acanthurus tangs. Clown tangs are very very fragile with regards to ich. Just as susceptible as powders and Achilles.

I've killed other tangs trying to manage ich but perhaps 20-40% of my attempts died of ich when I tried ich management. (Still a horribly mean statistic I am embarrassed by).

Angels may struggle too. Most fragile species.

Also I've never had trouble mixing powders or Achilles with Sohal or clown tangs. They seem different enough in shape and size that it's a non issue IME. But an aggressive specimen of either group can change all of that easily.
Ok, I am veryconfident that my tank is ick free. Would a powder blue mix well with zebrasoma? What about an orange shoulder with a clown?
 
Ok, I am veryconfident that my tank is ick free. Would a powder blue mix well with zebrasoma? What about an orange shoulder with a clown?

Depends on the specimens. Like I said if you have added any unquarantined fish, you probably have it but your fish show no symptoms because they've built "immunity".

I managed ich in several tanks for several years. Resident fish never died of it but other additions sometimes did.

And ich is the least of your worries other parasites will decimate them.

But let's assume you're correct and your tank is ich free, you'll want to add the tangs all at once in a larger quarantine (4 feet long would be best I use a 55) and treat them with cupramine for 5 weeks. Assume all tangs you recieve have ich (because almost all do upon arrival). Treat all incoming fish as if they're infected as well to keep it out.

So do the work up front to make sure you don't add parasites when you add those tangs. Or else you'll be tearing apart the tank and ripping them out and doing daily water changes to keep ammonia down in the quarantine you'll need to move them to (which you'll be doing with 4 tangs in a qt anyway for the first few weeks). I changed 75% water in my 55 at for 3-4 weeks, then every other day for a week, then every third day. Let the ammonia badge guide you.

I have a ton of fish in mine though.
 
I would say though that you'll probably be fine with that tang mix. Some powder blues are really aggressive that would be my primary concern so keep an eye on that. Clown tangs can be nasty too but generally at smaller sizes I find them quite docile. PBT are nasty regardless of size lol
 
Depends on the specimens. Like I said if you have added any unquarantined fish, you probably have it but your fish show no symptoms because they've built "immunity".

I managed ich in several tanks for several years. Resident fish never died of it but other additions sometimes did.

And ich is the least of your worries other parasites will decimate them.

But let's assume you're correct and your tank is ich free, you'll want to add the tangs all at once in a larger quarantine (4 feet long would be best I use a 55) and treat them with cupramine for 5 weeks. Assume all tangs you recieve have ich (because almost all do upon arrival). Treat all incoming fish as if they're infected as well to keep it out.

So do the work up front to make sure you don't add parasites when you add those tangs. Or else you'll be tearing apart the tank and ripping them out and doing daily water changes to keep ammonia down in the quarantine you'll need to move them to (which you'll be doing with 4 tangs in a qt anyway for the first few weeks). I changed 75% water in my 55 at for 3-4 weeks, then every other day for a week, then every third day. Let the ammonia badge guide you.

I have a ton of fish in mine though.
Would it not work adding them at different times? First the naso then a similar sized clown and last zebrasomas?
 
Would it not work adding them at different times? First the naso then a similar sized clown and last zebrasomas?

You're better off adding powder blue last. I would never add less than two or three tangs at a time personally, it can be done but your risk is higher. You could add naso first. Again, make sure he's treated as if he's ich infested. I would get tangs all smaller than the naso the naso isn't likely to push anyone around
 
Ideally, one reason I would try to add as many tangs as you plan to keep at once, is because while in qt you'll be able to identify if there are any aggression issues among the individuals and be poised to trade, sell, or move them around as necessary. In the display tank, it can be a real pain to remove a trouble maker...
 
Ideally, one reason I would try to add as many tangs as you plan to keep at once, is because while in qt you'll be able to identify if there are any aggression issues among the individuals and be poised to trade, sell, or move them around as necessary. In the display tank, it can be a real pain to remove a trouble maker...
Ok, I am just worried that a 40 or 55 gallon QT would be on the small side for keeping multiple tangs. Maybe add the larger tangs, naso, orange shoulder, and clown then add a yellow, purple and maybe a blue together. Then if I feel everything is getting along, I could look for a powder blue to add last.
 
I would want the Powder Blue with the other tangs to see how it acts. If you would be fishing out an aggressor, that would be the one, IMO.

I have 9 tangs, 3 angels, 3 wrasse, a CBB, and a few other fish in a 55 gallon QT without issue. They're all pretty small specimens but they've been there for 1.5 months now nearly. Lots of water changes lol!
 

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