265 gallon stand build

CoreyWakefield123 · Jan 26, 2019

Im building a stand for my 265 gallon marineland glass aquarium. Im having a real hard time getting it perfectly level, not sure if it's the garage floor or my carpentry skills. It is solid, made out of 2x6's which are inherently not level. I feel the weight of just the 400 lb aquarium will balance it out but it worries me. Im putting it on tile which is obviously not perfectly level. The stand is solid but wobbles just a bit. Should I put a pad underneath it?

DLHDesign · Jan 26, 2019

Are you topping it with a piece of plywood? That and some padding (neoprene, usually) can help to solve the small variations in the frame.
Having to shim up the stand to get it level is not uncommon. Use plenty of shims under any of the legs that aren't solidly on the floor.

Michael Lane · Jan 26, 2019

I had the same experience. My stand is build in a similar way and is rock solid, but was way out of level when I place it in location. I think it will be fine as long as the top is in a single plane that you can get level.

My basement floor had a definite slope, so I had to shim it like crazy. I didn't add a plywood top, but I did add a plywood bottom with some heavy shower liner in case of spills or leaks. It's helped a few times with sump changes and pump cleaning.

Other than getting the stand level, the biggest surprise was that I had to cut away some of the material in the back corners to accommodate bulkheads and plumbing.

davocean · Jan 26, 2019

I always add a 3/4" ply top to help ride over minor deviations and it also stitches framing together and adds a great deal more strength.
That and shims at floor where needed should resolve your issues.

CoreyWakefield123 · Jan 26, 2019

I did add a peice of high quality sanded ply to the top (which will have to come off when I get my gigantic triton 60 sump). The top is pretty flat, some very minor variations in the 2x6's underneath the plywood. My biggest concern is at the floor. No matter what I do it seems to rock just a bit at the floor. I've taken it all apart and cut new legs like 4 times now, I don't want to do it again. The legs are slightly different lengths even because of the variations in the cross beams but its pretty level

CoreyWakefield123 · Jan 26, 2019

Thanks guys I'll just shim the bottom

davocean · Jan 26, 2019

CoreyWakefield123 said:
I did add a peice of high quality sanded ply to the top (which will have to come off when I get my gigantic triton 60 sump). The top is pretty flat, some very minor variations in the 2x6's underneath the plywood. My biggest concern is at the floor. No matter what I do it seems to rock just a bit at the floor. I've taken it all apart and cut new legs like 4 times now, I don't want to do it again. The legs are slightly different lengths even because of the variations in the cross beams but its pretty level

davocean · Jan 26, 2019

I normally advise making the stand correct, all legs the same, check for square by using a tape at all corner to corner measurements, and if your floor is out(and most are) then use shims to make corrections.

Erica-Renee · Jan 26, 2019

davocean said:
I normally advise making the stand correct, all legs the same, check for square by using a tape at all corner to corner measurements, and if your floor is out(and most are) then use shims to make corrections.

Exactly I have been teaching a new helper about framing the past few weeks. This is the foundation of building anything .if you cut everything correctly a Tape measure and Fasteners are all that should be needed to assemble. No Framing square no Level... Save those tools for the Install and setup. I also still use a plumb bob for setting doors . You Just know its Right when you do .

CoreyWakefield123 · Jan 26, 2019

I originally cut all the pieces the same bit when it wobbled I made a couple longer to stabilize it. I figure it's from the bow in the cross framing on the top and bottom. I reluctantly took your advice and took everything apart made the legs all exactly the same and then sanded the ends while clamped so they'd be perfect now ro reassemble and hope the wobble isn't bad

davocean · Jan 26, 2019

Good deal, so shim stand level w/ tank on or off, check your level again when tank is on, make adjustments if needed, then fill tank for leak test, stopping at each quarter level and check again as you go.

You should have shims placed about every 6-12" across perimeter, so if it's bowed slightly at center that should flatten out w/ shims spaced accordingly.

That tank is trimmed, so really it only requires the 4 corners to be level and give support, trimmed tanks are more forgiving in this area.

Saveafish · Jan 26, 2019

Number 1 build a stand for a tank that size. Build it on plywood and upside down. This way it's level on the top. As long as it don't have twist in it. Side to side unlevel is ok front to back unlevel is ok. Caddy corner unlevel in NOT ok.