3-D Printed Frag Rack Code

[OrthoVet05]

Hey guys! I was curious to see if anyone had a cool frag rack code that could be 3-d printed as I have access to one.

Also had a chemistry question... PLA (polylactic acid) is the main filament I have which I do think would biodegrade in saltwater. Would it be a terrible idea to make a frag rack using this material? Thanks guys!

 

[Cyclone-G]

Everything 3D printed degrades quickly in saltwater. Also the porous nature of the printing gives the corrosion an foothold into the structural integrity of your object. If you have a 3D printer I can whip you up a quick model you can print if you want to do some testing. Send me your sketch.

 

[Thor2j]

Everything 3D printed degrades quickly in saltwater. Also the porous nature of the printing gives the corrosion an foothold into the structural integrity of your object. If you have a 3D printer I can whip you up a quick model you can print if you want to do some testing. Send me your sketch.

PETG and ABS do no degrade quickly in salt water. What do you think commercial frag racks are made of??

 

[Cyclone-G]

Try it and you’ll see. The parts are porous and the internal walls are honeycomb thin. It’s not like injection molded plastic, it’s just for making rapid prototypes. Some of the super high end $50k+ machines can do better parts but the home use machines aren’t designed to make high usage parts. HP has a pretty cool new printer that might work. It’s like $250k tho

 

[Thor2j]

Try it and you’ll see. The parts are porous and the internal walls are honeycomb thin. It’s not like injection molded plastic, it’s just for making rapid prototypes. Some of the super high end $50k+ machines can do better parts but the home use machines aren’t designed to make high usage parts. HP has a pretty cool new printer that might work. It’s like $250k tho

I've had petg in salt water for 6 months with zero degredation measured with a micrometer. At what point will I notice it starting to break down???

If you know anything about 3d printing you can adjust the infill so your paper thin honeycomb makes zero sense.

Theres people who have pla in salt water for 2 years and they're fine .

Stop spreading misinformation.

 

[ShepherdTech]

Try it and you’ll see. The parts are porous and the internal walls are honeycomb thin. It’s not like injection molded plastic, it’s just for making rapid prototypes. Some of the super high end $50k+ machines can do better parts but the home use machines aren’t designed to make high usage parts. HP has a pretty cool new printer that might work. It’s like $250k tho

Machine quality has nothing to do with how long a 3D printed part will last in a saltwater tank. The type of filament will determine that, as stated earlier. I still need to contact MatterHackers to verify the NylonX and NylonG filament i have does not contain anything that would contaminate the water.

 

[ajhudson15]

Try it and you’ll see. The parts are porous and the internal walls are honeycomb thin. It’s not like injection molded plastic, it’s just for making rapid prototypes. Some of the super high end $50k+ machines can do better parts but the home use machines aren’t designed to make high usage parts. HP has a pretty cool new printer that might work. It’s like $250k tho

ive also had a frag rack made of pla for months with no signs of becoming soft or anything

 

[Cyclone-G]

Give it time my friends. Using solid materials like sheet plastics will last forever in your tank. All of those filamentous creations are going to eventually break down. As I said before, the more expensive machines are capable of near solid construction so it is possible to make production level parts that rival injection molding. All I'm saying is that the desktop 3D printers aren't there yet for a saltwater/corrosive environment and will break down much quicker than a solid part. I'm not spreading disinformation folks, I've been doing this for over 30 years and tried many 3D printed parts in my tank from a variety of processes. Cross sectional cutting of the part and microscopic scrutiny of what is happening inside proves that I'm right.

I've always dreamed of starting a business with some of my designs (I'm an engineer) and the 3D printing revolution seemed like someday it could be my realization of that dream. Unfortunately, it requires a significant investment into some high end printing machinery to create parts that will last for years, (not months) in saltwater with high flow. Injection molded parts, or machined plastics are still the best way to create robust parts and assemblies for sale in large quantities. This also requires a significant investment in either tooling or machining operations that make the parts more expensive, and likely not salable.

The hobby grade machines that you can purchase for under 10k are just that, "hobby grade" for personal use. They were created for consumers to play around with and make their own parts but certainly not production level components. Making parts that last in your tank for 6 months to a year is fine. I've even had parts last for a couple of years before they succumb to cracking, chipping, and general decomposition. I have not tried the Ultem in an aquarium so you could see how that works.

All of you, please when you make comments include what type of machine you are using, make/model, the fill %, material used, and what the part actually is, software you used to create the part, etc.

My experience is using:
-Solidworks or Pro Engineer for part/assembly design.
-Stratus Fortus MC250
-Stratasys Fortus 400
-Makerbots (various models)
-Various materials

I've made feeding rings and chutes, dividers, frag racks, and a variety of other things.

 

[ShepherdTech]

You can spend a ton of money on a FDM printer, but it’s still an FDM printer with the same limitations (builds layer by layer) as the other FDM printers. A hobby grade machine can also achieve great layer adhesion and use 100% infill, if that is what you desire, but 100% infill is a waste of time and money. Perhaps the hobby grade machines you used were not properly configured, which is likely the case if your parts are printed using the same exact filament and parts from the expensive machine lasted longer than parts on the hobby grade machine, printed with the exact same material/composition. Temperature/cooling, offset, etc makes a huge difference in quality. In the end, you are still melting a string of material, layer on top of layer.

 

[dantimdad]

Hey guys! I was curious to see if anyone had a cool frag rack code that could be 3-d printed as I have access to one.

Also had a chemistry question... PLA (polylactic acid) is the main filament I have which I do think would biodegrade in saltwater. Would it be a terrible idea to make a frag rack using this material? Thanks guys!

Ok, so, yes, there are many designs out there. Some even on thingiverse

No, 3d printed objects won't last forever in water (or out in the sun for that matter). But, will it last long enough to be worth it if you own the printer? Absolutely.

How long? No clue, but, I know for a fact that there are folks with PETG parts that have last for 3 years without any sign of degradation. No, they didn't cut them open, why would you waste a part?

I am sure the first person to post means well. But, it's reaching to say that it degrades quickly.

I tend to use PETG for most items and all that will get wet. Everything else I use PLA+ Both are from HQA.

Oh, one last thought, the cost of the machine means absolutely nothing when it comes to longevity and infill. I have my newest ender 3 (sub $200) tuned so well right now, I would bet very few, if any people could tell it wasn't off of a much more expensive printer.

Just my .02[/QUOTE]

 

[Thor2j]

Give it time my friends. Using solid materials like sheet plastics will last forever in your tank. All of those filamentous creations are going to eventually break down. As I said before, the more expensive machines are capable of near solid construction so it is possible to make production level parts that rival injection molding. All I'm saying is that the desktop 3D printers aren't there yet for a saltwater/corrosive environment and will break down much quicker than a solid part. I'm not spreading disinformation folks, I've been doing this for over 30 years and tried many 3D printed parts in my tank from a variety of processes. Cross sectional cutting of the part and microscopic scrutiny of what is happening inside proves that I'm right.

I've always dreamed of starting a business with some of my designs (I'm an engineer) and the 3D printing revolution seemed like someday it could be my realization of that dream. Unfortunately, it requires a significant investment into some high end printing machinery to create parts that will last for years, (not months) in saltwater with high flow. Injection molded parts, or machined plastics are still the best way to create robust parts and assemblies for sale in large quantities. This also requires a significant investment in either tooling or machining operations that make the parts more expensive, and likely not salable.

The hobby grade machines that you can purchase for under 10k are just that, "hobby grade" for personal use. They were created for consumers to play around with and make their own parts but certainly not production level components. Making parts that last in your tank for 6 months to a year is fine. I've even had parts last for a couple of years before they succumb to cracking, chipping, and general decomposition. I have not tried the Ultem in an aquarium so you could see how that works.

All of you, please when you make comments include what type of machine you are using, make/model, the fill %, material used, and what the part actually is, software you used to create the part, etc.

My experience is using:
-Solidworks or Pro Engineer for part/assembly design.
-Stratus Fortus MC250
-Stratasys Fortus 400
-Makerbots (various models)
-Various materials

I've made feeding rings and chutes, dividers, frag racks, and a variety of other things.

Ok we will give it time. By the time it breaks down we will all be dead. There are people who have PLA in salt water for YEARS and it hasn't broken down. Petg is that much better. Will it break down, sure, one day. How about just re print a new one every 5 years to be safe.

 

[ajhudson15]

even if it does breakdown it still beats the cost of a $30, $40 heck even a $60 frag rack when the cost to make it is minimal. If you already own a printer and the material it costs basically nothing to make a mall frag rack of which I could make enough to last a decade before I would reach the cost of a store bought frag rack.

 

[JDowns]

I'm confused at the logic that an injected mold part compared to a FDM printed part of the same material will last longer?

The longevity of a part will largely rest upon, choice of materials, and print quality. Otherwise it's the same material. If you print a part with poor interlayer adhesion and a material that is porous and is subject to expansion and contraction with temperature changes then yes that part will fail quicker than an injected molded part. But are you capable of printing a part with the same longevity with a "Hobbyist" grade printer. Absolutely.

The only difference between what may be considered a "hobbyist" and "commercial" printer today is print area, capabilities, and material choices. Otherwise once the patents for FDM expired in 2009 the over bloated price for FDM printers went away which is why you have seen the explosion in FDM printing. Slicing software for the masses has gotten much much better.

 

[Cyclone-G]

Give it time my friends. Using solid materials like sheet plastics will last forever in your tank. All of those filamentous creations are going to eventually break down. As I said before, the more expensive machines are capable of near solid construction so it is possible to make production level parts that rival injection molding. All I'm saying is that the desktop 3D printers aren't there yet for a saltwater/corrosive environment and will break down much quicker than a solid part. I'm not spreading disinformation folks, I've been doing this for over 30 years and tried many 3D printed parts in my tank from a variety of processes. Cross sectional cutting of the part and microscopic scrutiny of what is happening inside proves that I'm right.

I've always dreamed of starting a business with some of my designs (I'm an engineer) and the 3D printing revolution seemed like someday it could be my realization of that dream. Unfortunately, it requires a significant investment into some high end printing machinery to create parts that will last for years, (not months) in saltwater with high flow. Injection molded parts, or machined plastics are still the best way to create robust parts and assemblies for sale in large quantities. This also requires a significant investment in either tooling or machining operations that make the parts more expensive, and likely not salable.

The hobby grade machines that you can purchase for under 10k are just that, "hobby grade" for personal use. They were created for consumers to play around with and make their own parts but certainly not production level components. Making parts that last in your tank for 6 months to a year is fine. I've even had parts last for a couple of years before they succumb to cracking, chipping, and general decomposition. I have not tried the Ultem in an aquarium so you could see how that works.

All of you, please when you make comments include what type of machine you are using, make/model, the fill %, material used, and what the part actually is, software you used to create the part, etc.

My experience is using:
-Solidworks or Pro Engineer for part/assembly design.
-Stratus Fortus MC250
-Stratasys Fortus 400
-Makerbots (various models)
-Various materials

I've made feeding rings and chutes, dividers, frag racks, and a variety of other things.

Oh, and I've used some others too from 3D systems, and some desktop units.

 

[Thor2j]

Oh, and I've used some others too from 3D systems, and some desktop units.

NOw starting to think you may just be a troll.

 

[OrthoVet05]

When it’s all said and done... I don’t really care how long it lasts.. I have a 3 d printer. I’ll just print another!!!!!!

Back to my OP... does anyone have any decent codes available ?

 

[ShepherdTech]

Ok, so, yes, there are many designs out there. Some even on thingiverse

No, 3d printed objects won't last forever in water (or out in the sun for that matter). But, will it last long enough to be worth it if you own the printer? Absolutely.

How long? No clue, but, I know for a fact that there are folks with PETG parts that have last for 3 years without any sign of degradation. No, they didn't cut them open, why would you waste a part?

I am sure the first person to post means well. But, it's reaching to say that it degrades quickly.

I tend to use PETG for most items and all that will get wet. Everything else I use PLA+ Both are from HQA.

Oh, one last thought, the cost of the machine means absolutely nothing when it comes to longevity and infill. I have my newest ender 3 (sub $200) tuned so well right now, I would bet very few, if any people could tell it wasn't off of a much more expensive printer.

Just my .02

[/QUOTE]
It’s also an enjoyable hobby. My first printer with a Robo 3D R1+ and ended up purchasing a MatterHackers Pulse XE last year. I wanted a more consistent machine and something that would be able to print Nylon (possible drone project)

When it’s all said and done... I don’t really care how long it lasts.. I have a 3 d printer. I’ll just print another!!!!!!

Back to my OP... does anyone have any decent codes available ?

There are a few on Thingiverse. Just search “frag rack” to see them.

 

[Cyclone-G]

Ok we will give it time. By the time it breaks down we will all be dead. There are people who have PLA in salt water for YEARS and it hasn't broken down. Petg is that much better. Will it break down, sure, one day. How about just re print a new one every 5 years to be safe.

Agreed for sure. If you own a printer just print a new one. I printed 6-7 feeding devices. I had some moving parts on them so the tolerances were playing into their demise as well. These parts will shrink and swell in saltwater depending upon your design. I had a tough time getting the parts to fit together and work properly over a few months time due to this. So maybe they didn't break down and turn to dust but they did get very brittle under the lights at the top of my tank and the size changed due to saltwater. I tried Petg and PLA. They say that the Ultem works very well though. I made some solid clear parts in Ultem that were pretty dang impressive. It was a work project so I never got to test them in saltwater.

Do you guys that own printers actually design your own parts on CAD or how do you get the models?

 

[BedrockIOMC]

Go to www.print3d.com

 

[BedrockIOMC]

Hey guys! I was curious to see if anyone had a cool frag rack code that could be 3-d printed as I have access to one.

Also had a chemistry question... PLA (polylactic acid) is the main filament I have which I do think would biodegrade in saltwater. Would it be a terrible idea to make a frag rack using this material? Thanks guys!

I have a lot of 3d printed thing. Go to www.print3d.com you'll see. I have about half his stuff.