3 Month Old R/O Unit - HELP!

gallid19086

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Hi all. I replaced my old Coralife 3 stage R/O unit with a RO/DI-4 stage unit, High-flow/high-rejection unit rated at 50 gpd. High rejection is an understatement!

The unit is only producing about 2 QUARTS every 24 hours while the rest goes down the drain. Needless to say, my water bill is a disaster! :mad2:

I checked to make sure that the plumbing is correct (Micron, Carbon block, D/I, R/O). I also changed the micron and carbon blocks but to no avail.

Has anyone has this experience? I know my water pressure is within specs, since I checked before I bought the unit, so that has been eliminated.

Thanks!
 
Order should be
Sediment Filter
Carbon Block
RO Membrane
DI
Unless you posted wrong, your RO and DI are backwards
 
Does the system have a flush valve on the waste line and is that valve in the closed position? What brand and model of system did you buy? Photos or a link would help.
 
Thanks everyone! This is my first time with a DI on a unit. To answer your questions:

1. No brand name (see photo) and no model number. Came in a plastic bag from LFS with "instructions" (using the term loosely).
2. No flush valve
3. Unsure about the pressure, but the spigot I have it on is on a Y with the washer (no choice) and I have tried to reduce the pressure using the valve on the Y with no effect.

Note: I did change it to Sediment, Carbon, Membrane, DI but I still only get about 2 QUARTS of water. Meanwhile, water is gushing down the drain through the drain pipe. I do have an in-line TDS meter (see pic, it's currently on the IN tube, but I did test the drain tube as well), but the drain flow is reading high and the output (good water) is reading very low.
 

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I use a splitter at my washing machine as well. It's fine. But I have great water pressure. I get 3gal/hr from my system.

You don't want less pressure, you want MORE. Your water pressure needs to be 60-70psi for the RO unit to work most efficiently. you can buy pumps to boost your pressure, they start around $100. But you need to find out what your pressure is first. For $11 you can get a meter: Watts 3/4 in. Plastic Water Pressure Test Gauge-DP IWTG - The Home Depot
 
Thanks. I will try the gauge. However, with more pressure, won't I create more waste? 99% seems to be leaving the unit as waste.
 
No, it's the other way around. You aren't getting enough water through the membrane. You need more pressure to force the water through. At least $11 will tell you for sure one way or the other.
 
Sounds like you may not have a flow restrictor installed in or on the waste line.
You want all the pressure you can get and installing it on the washing machines cold water supply is very common, mine is the same way.
Try temporarily installing a 1/4" ball valve on the waste line and throttle it down ubtil your waste ratio is 4:1 or 4 ounces of waste to 1 ounce of treated. If this works then you need a flow restrictor which is only a $5-6 item.
 
I just bought the pressure gauge and it reads 80psi connected directly to the tap.


I use a splitter at my washing machine as well. It's fine. But I have great water pressure. I get 3gal/hr from my system.

You don't want less pressure, you want MORE. Your water pressure needs to be 60-70psi for the RO unit to work most efficiently. you can buy pumps to boost your pressure, they start around $100. But you need to find out what your pressure is first. For $11 you can get a meter: Watts 3/4 in. Plastic Water Pressure Test Gauge-DP IWTG - The Home Depot
 
When I tried to restrict the flow, the unit made a loud knocking noise and a low rumble. The instructions say nothing about using any restriction.


Sounds like you may not have a flow restrictor installed in or on the waste line.
You want all the pressure you can get and installing it on the washing machines cold water supply is very common, mine is the same way.
Try temporarily installing a 1/4" ball valve on the waste line and throttle it down ubtil your waste ratio is 4:1 or 4 ounces of waste to 1 ounce of treated. If this works then you need a flow restrictor which is only a $5-6 item.
 
You need to measure the pressure at the system - after the prefilters (= all filters that touch the water before the membrane) but before the membrane. If you read from a pressure gauge at a dead end at a hose bib for example - what you'll read is "static" pressure. You want a measure of "dynamic" pressure at the system - meaning the pressure reaching the membrane when the system is running.

That said, if your static pressure is 80 psi, and assuming your prefilters aren't clogged, and you used connect the feeedwater tube to the plumbing in a way that doesn't restrict flow, and you don't have a feedwater tube that is too small in diameter for its length, then my guess is that water pressure isn't your issue.

When you measure the dynamic pressure you'll know if you don't have a flow restrictor installed because the pressure gauge will read very low - in the 10 psi range. ALL ro systems need a flow restrictor to operate properly.

Feel free to give us a call when you are in front of your system if you'd like help troubleshooting it. Should be a quick, inexpensive, and easy fix.

Russ
513-312-2343
 
As Russ said, all RO membranes need a flow restrictor. It is what makes the water pass through the membrane.
 
Just a guess is it possible you are just flushing everything ? I may be seeing things but isn't the screw on cap (membrane housing ) supposed to be the water input from the carbon block and the round end the discharge to the di . I can't totally follow the lines but it looks backwards to me .
 
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Hard to tell from the pic which tube goes where, but that style ASOV has a horseshoe flow pattern - it's different than the more common type where water flows right straight through the valve.

Russ
 

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