3 wrasse in qt (one dead now) with spots

Cbones1979

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Hello

I’ve had 3 wrasse in a 20 gallon qt going on the third week. Week 2 I dosed prazi and noticed the fish stopped eating. I removed the prazi per instructions after the fish were in it for 5 days.

yesterday I noticed the Lubbock (now dead) with these spots
55ED449F-9B9D-4EE1-A587-AFDDE7B0A803.jpeg

I’ve been told this is ich or velvet depending on who sees it. I was told to start dosing copper (I have coppersafe). I dosed under recommended as I don’t have a Hanna yet to test. The Lubbock passed overnight.

the other wrasse looks like this while the canary wrasse appears fine.
0CFD5FEB-7927-443C-87C3-F92328D4F8F0.jpeg


from what I gather I can use coppersafe at 2.0-2.5 for 14-30 days to rid of any/all ich/velvet.

any differing suggestions?
 
Hello

I’ve had 3 wrasse in a 20 gallon qt going on the third week. Week 2 I dosed prazi and noticed the fish stopped eating. I removed the prazi per instructions after the fish were in it for 5 days.

yesterday I noticed the Lubbock (now dead) with these spots
55ED449F-9B9D-4EE1-A587-AFDDE7B0A803.jpeg

I’ve been told this is ich or velvet depending on who sees it. I was told to start dosing copper (I have coppersafe). I dosed under recommended as I don’t have a Hanna yet to test. The Lubbock passed overnight.

the other wrasse looks like this while the canary wrasse appears fine.
0CFD5FEB-7927-443C-87C3-F92328D4F8F0.jpeg


from what I gather I can use coppersafe at 2.0-2.5 for 14-30 days to rid of any/all ich/velvet.

any differing suggestions?
This is ich/cryptocaryon and treatment regimens would be use of coppersafe or general cure with coppersafe my choice at therapuetic level 2.25-2.5 for a FULL 30 Days monitored with a reliable copper test kit such as Hanna brand, not Api
Also monitor ammonia level with a reliable test kit during treatment and would not be a bad idea to add an air stone for added oxygen during treatment
You will also need to leave display tank if fish were in there Fish-Less (Fallow) for at least 6-8 weeks to assure the cysts and trophants have completed their life cycle without a host and have died off
 
This is ich/cryptocaryon and treatment regimens would be use of coppersafe or general cure with coppersafe my choice at therapuetic level 2.25-2.5 for a FULL 30 Days monitored with a reliable copper test kit such as Hanna brand, not Api
Also monitor ammonia level with a reliable test kit during treatment and would not be a bad idea to add an air stone for added oxygen during treatment
You will also need to leave display tank if fish were in there Fish-Less (Fallow) for at least 6-8 weeks to assure the cysts and trophants have completed their life cycle without a host and have died off
Thanks luckily these guys were never in DT yet as I was QTing.
 
This is ich/cryptocaryon and treatment regimens would be use of coppersafe or general cure with coppersafe my choice at therapuetic level 2.25-2.5 for a FULL 30 Days monitored with a reliable copper test kit such as Hanna brand, not Api
Also monitor ammonia level with a reliable test kit during treatment and would not be a bad idea to add an air stone for added oxygen during treatment
You will also need to leave display tank if fish were in there Fish-Less (Fallow) for at least 6-8 weeks to assure the cysts and trophants have completed their life cycle without a host and have died off
Weirdest thing now the wrasse has no spots
 

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Not weird. The Ich life cycle will drop off the fish. The trophont stage of Ich is on the fish. After that it drops to the substrait, divides, grows into a free swimmer and reattaches to the fish again. That is why you need 30 days of copper treatment. The copper won't kill the Ich on the fish. It causes the ich to explode when it hatches from the Tomont on the substrait. You need to kill the Ich in the cycle. This is also why you need to leave a tank fallow if you can't treat with copper. To allow the Ich to hatch, find no host, die.
 
Not weird. The Ich life cycle will drop off the fish. The trophont stage of Ich is on the fish. After that it drops to the substrait, divides, grows into a free swimmer and reattaches to the fish again. That is why you need 30 days of copper treatment. The copper won't kill the Ich on the fish. It causes the ich to explode when it hatches from the Tomont on the substrait. You need to kill the Ich in the cycle. This is also why you need to leave a tank fallow if you can't treat with copper. To allow the Ich to hatch, find no host, die.
But in one day? From on fish to off?
 
Hello

I’ve had 3 wrasse in a 20 gallon qt going on the third week. Week 2 I dosed prazi and noticed the fish stopped eating. I removed the prazi per instructions after the fish were in it for 5 days.

yesterday I noticed the Lubbock (now dead) with these spots
55ED449F-9B9D-4EE1-A587-AFDDE7B0A803.jpeg

I’ve been told this is ich or velvet depending on who sees it. I was told to start dosing copper (I have coppersafe). I dosed under recommended as I don’t have a Hanna yet to test. The Lubbock passed overnight.

the other wrasse looks like this while the canary wrasse appears fine.
0CFD5FEB-7927-443C-87C3-F92328D4F8F0.jpeg


from what I gather I can use coppersafe at 2.0-2.5 for 14-30 days to rid of any/all ich/velvet.

any differing suggestions?
You can use copper to treat them for two weeks (14 days), but you would need to transfer only the fish to a different observation tank. Copper must also be at a full therapeutic level for the entire 14 days.

Source: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/copper-treatment.193343/
 
V CB Oporto is not 14 but full 30 days at therapeutic level I mentioned
Don’t know why others are stating 14 days which is shorter than life cycle of ich parasite which goes through several stages and will come back in numbers
 
V CB Oporto is not 14 but full 30 days at therapeutic level I mentioned
Don’t know why others are stating 14 days which is shorter than life cycle of ich parasite which goes through several stages and will come back in numbers
Well, I was basing off HumbeFish's guide to copper treatment of ich and marine velvet. The 30-day treatment or the alternative 14-day treatment which requires a second quarantine tank in which you can transfer your fish to observe because "after 14 days, any ich or velvet trophonts should have dropped off the fish. "

Essentially you're moving the now uninfected fish into a sterile tank during the period in which ich or velvet trophonts have fallen off the fish.
 
Last edited:
Well, I was basing off HumbeFish's guide to copper treatment of ich and marine velvet. The 30-day treatment or the alternative 14-day treatment which requires a second quarantine tank in which you can transfer your fish to observe because "after 14 days, any ich or velvet trophonts should have dropped off the fish. "

Essentially you're moving the now uninfected fish into a sterile tank during the period in which ich or velvet trophonts have fallen off the fish.
Not only is that from 2015 but not sure why anyone would come on here and then go on other sites and take measures.
Im not a middleman and that method is Known as tank transfer method while it can work stresses the daylights out of any given fish moving tank to tank to tank.
 
Not only is that from 2015 but not sure why anyone would come on here and then go on other sites and take measures.
Im not a middleman and that method is Known as tank transfer method while it can work stresses the daylights out of any given fish moving tank to tank to tank.
I've been using the 14-day method to quarantine my fish for the past five years, and it seems to work just fine. I just needed some old sources to back it up. I found a much newer copper treatment for the 30day/14day guide just now on what appears to be Humblefish's website, which was updated this year.

Perhaps I've just been stuck on doing the copper treatment methods that are now long out of date and not advisable as they used to be.

But I do agree with you that this alternative is a bit more troubling than the standard 30-day treatment.
 
Welp two fish died only the canary wrasse that shows no I’ll affects from anything. Honestly don’t think it was ich and if it was velvet he’d be dead too.
 
Welp two fish died only the canary wrasse that shows no I’ll affects from anything. Honestly don’t think it was ich and if it was velvet he’d be dead too.
Thanks for your help tho
 
I’m going to continue copper with carnary wrasse to assure it is nothing/everything is dead before I put him in the DT.
 
I have been doing copper for 14 days and 14 days in a separate tank for a few years with great success. I have had a couple that had to do a second round in copper. You should see any signs of infection in the second qt.
 
I have been doing copper for 14 days and 14 days in a separate tank for a few years with great success. I have had a couple that had to do a second round in copper. You should see any signs of infection in the second qt.
Is that for tanks you know have ich or velvet or just QT?
 
Is that for tanks you know have ich or velvet or just QT?
All new fish get 14 days copper power and 2 rounds of General Cure. Then they are moved to the new qt tank with no meds. After another couple of weeks they get to move to the display.
 
All new fish get 14 days copper power and 2 rounds of General Cure. Then they are moved to the new qt tank with no meds. After another couple of weeks they get to move to the display.
Above vette says if disease is seen in qt go 30 days to assure it’s taken care of.
 

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