30x30x24 corner tank build

herozero · Oct 4, 2013

Prep work is done (so we think, right!), equipment list is ready (so we think, right!), the crying over the previous tank losses is over :cry:, and the crying over the expected budget is over. :angel:

After living with tape on the floor in a couple of places in a couple of size configurations, my wife and I decided on a corner tank. With the space needed for vortech pumps and the dimension of the corner, we opted for a 30x30x24 square tank, which should weigh in at approx. 93 gallon display tank. It arrives Sunday, including the stand (38" high, mahogany) and matching canopy (Radion LED to come). Here it is waiting at the shop.

That's starphire glass on the two visible sides, eurobraced. An overflow with two 1.5" drains runs diagonal in the back corner. In two corners of the tank, the eurobrace is drilled to accept a .75" bulkhead, the idea is to have omninozzles come in from the top at the corners. Glass thickness is .5."

Here is the corner where the tank will live.

The separating wall section is 36" long, so the 3" of space between wall and tank, and the 3" lip on the stand should fit perfectly flush across that plane.

This will be a mixed reef tank, I've had lots of success growing SPS, LPS, acans and zoas, so they are all on the potential livestock list (I'll spare you all the sob story of the previous loss). Needless to say, it's a very exciting time around the house, except for the dog who hates water and attention not directed at her.

Let's see if I get bullied into posting hand written drawings of the sump, tank and stand before it all arrives Sunday night for picture time.

Flameback Pair · Oct 5, 2013

equipment list?

CoralMD · Oct 5, 2013

Looking forward to seeing this

Zero Nitrates · Oct 5, 2013

Looks like the start of a great build.

herozero · Oct 5, 2013

powers2001 said:
equipment list?

Using some existing equipment to get started and we'll see what changes:

1x SWC 160 cone skimmer
2x Vortech MP10w (left enough room between tank and wall to fit an MP40 on the dry side if more flow is required)
1x Radion LED (still debating about a Gen2 or a Pro, and the October sale Ecotech is running is mighty temping. I'm also only running one light for this tank, I think two would be overkill and i'm happy lighting 24x24 inside the tank)
1x Eheim 1262 or a Tunze return (the exact model escapes me at the moment)
1x jager 250w subersible heater
1x Tunze ATO

I'll probably run carbon and/or GFO as needed out of a couple Two Little Fishes reactors.

I need to provide instructions for additional sump drilling today so hopefully I'll have some more pictures today before it's arrival Sunday.

herozero · Oct 7, 2013

More to come once I get my head on straight:

Zero Nitrates · Oct 7, 2013

That is sharp!

herozero · Oct 7, 2013

Zero Nitrates said:
That is sharp!

thanks. plumbing will be a slow triple-checking process but at the least I'll take some real non-iPhone photos today.

darrend · Oct 7, 2013

very clean, i like it.

herozero · Oct 8, 2013

drain plumbing time! I would love some input if you have any advice for the drains:

1) easy, dirty, cheap (herbie method). the full siphon drain: flexible PVC glued into the drain bulkhead, into a union valve, PVC pipe into a slip x slip gate valve, PVC pipe into a slip x MPT adapter into the sump bulkhead. Emergency drain run directly with flexible PVC. All 1 1/2" bulkheads, fittings and pipe.

2) probably way overkill (still herbie). MPT x slip adapter into a double threaded bulkhead, PVC pipe to 45 degree slip x slip elbow, PVC pipe to 45 degree slip x slip elbow (now directly vertical going into the sump bulkhead), PVC pipe to 1 1/2" adapter to 2" (slip x slip), 2" PVC to 2" union, 2" PVC to 2" gate valve (slip x slip), 2" PVC to 2" adapter to 1 1/2" adapter (slip x slip), 1 1/2" PVC pipe to slip x MPT adapter to sump bulkhead. Hard plumb the emergency drain with PVC pipe, 45 elbows and a slip x MPT adatper to the sump bulkhead. Phew!

Well now that I've typed out what I drew on paper it seems option two is massively overkill, and i shouldn't have any issues with 1 1/2" drains using flexible PVC. I would greatly appreciate any input.
curt

herozero · Oct 13, 2013

Some dry plumbing work being done, but the canopy is on top at the moment.

120spsking · Oct 13, 2013

herozero · Oct 13, 2013

herozero said:
Some dry plumbing work being done, but the canopy is on top at the moment.

Bummer that image link didn't work, let's try this one:

RollinReefer · Oct 13, 2013

very nice start!

Flameback Pair · Oct 23, 2013

herozero said:
drain plumbing time! I would love some input if you have any advice for the drains:

1) easy, dirty, cheap (herbie method). the full siphon drain: flexible PVC glued into the drain bulkhead, into a union valve, PVC pipe into a slip x slip gate valve, PVC pipe into a slip x MPT adapter into the sump bulkhead. Emergency drain run directly with flexible PVC. All 1 1/2" bulkheads, fittings and pipe.

2) probably way overkill (still herbie). MPT x slip adapter into a double threaded bulkhead, PVC pipe to 45 degree slip x slip elbow, PVC pipe to 45 degree slip x slip elbow (now directly vertical going into the sump bulkhead), PVC pipe to 1 1/2" adapter to 2" (slip x slip), 2" PVC to 2" union, 2" PVC to 2" gate valve (slip x slip), 2" PVC to 2" adapter to 1 1/2" adapter (slip x slip), 1 1/2" PVC pipe to slip x MPT adapter to sump bulkhead. Hard plumb the emergency drain with PVC pipe, 45 elbows and a slip x MPT adatper to the sump bulkhead. Phew!

Well now that I've typed out what I drew on paper it seems option two is massively overkill, and i shouldn't have any issues with 1 1/2" drains using flexible PVC. I would greatly appreciate any input.
curt

According to the "Reef Central Drain/Overflow Size Calculator" found on their homepage, a 1-1/2" drain is good for about 1300 gph. FWIW

herozero · Dec 20, 2013

Doing a build over the Thanksgiving and winter holidays is TOUGH! Progress is slow, but I'm always proud when plumbing is FINALLY done and lights are installed! That's freshwater pumping through there leak-free. Sand and rock going in this weekend? I'm keeping my fingers crossed. :tongue:

herozero · Dec 20, 2013

herozero said:
Using some existing equipment to get started and we'll see what changes:

1x SWC 160 cone skimmer
2x Vortech MP10w (left enough room between tank and wall to fit an MP40 on the dry side if more flow is required)
1x Radion LED (still debating about a Gen2 or a Pro, and the October sale Ecotech is running is mighty temping. I'm also only running one light for this tank, I think two would be overkill and i'm happy lighting 24x24 inside the tank)
1x Eheim 1262 or a Tunze return (the exact model escapes me at the moment)
1x jager 250w subersible heater
1x Tunze ATO

I'll probably run carbon and/or GFO as needed out of a couple Two Little Fishes reactors.

I need to provide instructions for additional sump drilling today so hopefully I'll have some more pictures today before it's arrival Sunday.

Equipment list update:
Light is a Radion xr30w Pro. I took advantage of that Ecotech sale back in October (and some gift cards). I'll only use 1. The lights rails are pretty neat, I'll take some pictures if anyone is interested.
The MP10s are going to be upgraded to MP40s in the short to medium term. I'll need the flow but also the 1/2" glass is causing some connection issues with the MP10s.
The eheim 1262 I have doesn't have a baseplate, it rattles something fierce against the acrylic in the sump. I have had lots of success with the quiet eheim compact 5000+ so that will be ordered and installed soon also.

herozero · Dec 20, 2013

One more quick mention: gate valves. This is the first time I've used one on a drain pipe, I'm using the herbie overflow dual pipe method. It's unbelievable how quiet I have made the drains, and the ability to control the flow with the gate valve is really something else. If you've ever debated on ball or gate valve, or had trouble with a herbie overflow with a ball valve, go gate. You'll never go back.