Erica-Renee
Valuable Member
This Device Required Water in or to work effectivelyNice design- similar to how I print COR20 guards. Though I do put a single circle of support in the middle, just to keep it flat.
3D Printing thread
- Thread starter PurpleMonster
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Entz
Active Member
I agree it looks really good. I would be super happy if that was what I was getting. The bubbles on his forehead, if not part of the model, are likely a filament issue (air/moisture).
Lowering the rate will cause it to have less material come out which could help with stringing and possible some squishing (if that is what is around the base of the eyelet).
I love these for testing finer details (without going full Benchy). https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594
Lowering the rate will cause it to have less material come out which could help with stringing and possible some squishing (if that is what is around the base of the eyelet).
I love these for testing finer details (without going full Benchy). https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594
Entz
Active Member
I didn't like the way the Gooseneck worked in my sump with my little fuge, so I printed a lightstand for a Kessil H80 TF. It is way overbuilt but I wanted to make sure.
Forgot to take a finished picture so the Fusion 360 screenshot will have to do. I have attached the STL file if anyone wants to use, fairly specific combo of H80 TF + Reefer ATO to fuge combo. One of these days I will work on getting stuff into Thingiverse.
Forgot to take a finished picture so the Fusion 360 screenshot will have to do. I have attached the STL file if anyone wants to use, fairly specific combo of H80 TF + Reefer ATO to fuge combo. One of these days I will work on getting stuff into Thingiverse.
that's also my understanding as well - particularly with regular PLA. With PETG, it may or may not since it wont break down due to the water. However, since the pigment does contain potentially toxic chemicals we stay away form it for any that that is intended for use in the water.
ludnix
Valuable Member
You can get some surprisingly bright flourescent from some of the yellow and green colors of regular PLA or ABS under the blue LEDS if you're thinking of coral price tags or similar items.
ludnix
Valuable Member
I had been having trouble getting my build plate level lately. If the front leveling screws were bottomed out the back screws would need to be longer to get things level, something seemed very wrong but I couldn't tell what. I eventually discovered the actual build platform had a warp to it and had to be bent back into shape. I got much better results after warping the build platform roughly flat but I decided to just replace it with something a little more skookum and got this 2mm aluminum plate replace it. So far it's been a great upgrade and I'm having to adjust my leveling screws much less frequently now. A small upgrade I hadn't given much thought to before but has been a real improvement!
Old plate on top and new thicker plate on the bottom. The heat bed screws into this platform.
Old plate on top and new thicker plate on the bottom. The heat bed screws into this platform.
biecacka
Valuable Member
Anyone ebuilt a bracket to hold the ballast for Orphek LEDS. I was thinking a design similar to the one built to hold the vortex here controllers. I use those and love them and am getting ready to hang some Orpheks and would love to have a similar bracket?
Corey
Corey
ludnix
Valuable Member
There are no orphek accessories uploaded as of yet. That is a huge powerbrick too so I don't think the universal mounts will work for it. It would be a very easy model to make though fortunately. If you want to give it a shot Tinkercad its a great free tool for beginners!
biecacka
Valuable Member
I don’t have the 3D printer. I was looking to see if it existed and would buy 2 of the brackets. I was thinking they could be like the vortech controller brackets, just larger.
Corey
Corey
