3D prints for reef tank

[Damiantos]

I have taken the plunge and joined the forum so hi the UK.

I have found lots of useful information on 3D printing on this forums but can’t see to find the answer for this.

what finish if any do people use on their prints?

I have also read that a lot of 3D printers use acetone vapour to clean up their prints is their a safe alternative? I find that my prints come out ok ish but with the odd bit of stringing will need to be tidied up

I’m new to 3D printing but want to make sure everything is safe for the mixed reef tank.

Any tips and tricks would be useful. Great forum already reading bits on photography etc.

 

[T-J]

I stay away from acetone on anything that might go in a tank.
Check out my video on this very topic!

 

[Damiantos]

I stay away from acetone on anything that might go in a tank.
Check out my video on this very topic!

Great stuff, thanks for this TJ great video.

 

[richarddeweerd]

I do not finish my 3d-prints at all if they have to go in the tank.

 

[TheHarold]

I have taken the plunge and joined the forum so hi the UK.

I have found lots of useful information on 3D printing on this forums but can’t see to find the answer for this.

what finish if any do people use on their prints?

I have also read that a lot of 3D printers use acetone vapour to clean up their prints is their a safe alternative? I find that my prints come out ok ish but with the odd bit of stringing will need to be tidied up

I’m new to 3D printing but want to make sure everything is safe for the mixed reef tank.

Any tips and tricks would be useful. Great forum already reading bits on photography etc.

Acetone smoothing would be for ABS, to get a shiny and line-free finish. It is not traditionally used for regular prints, or for things in reef tanks.

Note that printing ABS releases fumes, and you will need ventilation. Also quite prone to warping, its best done in an enclosure.

PETG also requires no finish, and has no fumes (unlike ABS). If you have stringing it can be fixed by adjusting your printer settings or going over it quickly with a lighter afterward.

Summary: Use PETG

 

[Damiantos]

I do not finish my 3d-prints at all if they have to go in the tank.

Yeah this is what i am landing towards

 

[Damiantos]

Acetone smoothing would be for ABS, to get a shiny and line-free finish. It is not traditionally used for regular prints, or for things in reef tanks.

Note that printing ABS releases fumes, and you will need ventilation. Also quite prone to warping, its best done in an enclosure.

PETG also requires no finish, and has no fumes (unlike ABS). If you have stringing it can be fixed by adjusting your printer settings or going over it quickly with a lighter afterward.

Summary: Use PETG

Thanks for the info

 

[92Miata]

Curious why you're worried about acetone - a lot of the super glue accelerators people use are mostly acetone.

 

[Brewtoszek]

I also do not do any finishing, if it’s going in the tank I use PETG.

A few things you can try to reduce stringing, first try to increase your retraction slightly to see if it makes an improvement. You can also try dropping your extruder temp, try dropping 10C to see if it helps. Occasionally I’ll get fine hairs on my parts that I just lightly scrape off, but I’ve seen that other folks have had luck hitting the part with a heat gun to clean up, I think it’s just a quick exposure to melt the strands.

There is another technique I’ve seen on YouTube that sounded interesting, but I haven’t tried it personally, after printing you place the part in a container and pack sand around it, then expose to elevated temp for an extended period of time to remelt the plastic into the sand mold you made for it. In addition to giving the part a textured surface it also apparently makes it watertight if I remember correctly. I’ll try to find the video later and share the link.

 

[Brewtoszek]

Here is that video, and correction above, it looks like hes using salt, not sand.

 

[AcanthurusRex]

PETG and a stainless steel nozzle.

 

[TheHarold]

PETG and a stainless steel nozzle.

I don’t think a stainless nozzle is needed. I have hundreds of days worth of PETG print time, with no noticeable wear on brass nozzles (observed under inexpensive microscope). I understand where you are coming from in terms of abrasive materials, but PETG doesn’t really wear the nozzle in any meaningful way.

 

[AcanthurusRex]

I don’t think a stainless nozzle is needed. I have hundreds of days worth of PETG print time, with no noticeable wear on brass nozzles (observed under inexpensive microscope). I understand where you are coming from in terms of abrasive materials, but PETG doesn’t really wear the nozzle in any meaningful way.

I doubt that the amount of led is a big issue but for the price of a stainless nozzle why not be on the safe side.