3rd chamber of sump affecting overflow.

[John A!10]

So as the water evaporates, the water in the 3rd (last chamber) of my sump lowers. It stays constant in the tank and first two chambers. I too it off by hand, and working on a gravity fed ATO, till I can afford a duetto. When the water level lowers in the first it also lowers in the back of the overflow box making the water foundling down the pipes a little bit more noisy than when it is set with the tank at the correct water level. There is no fix for this correct?the tank is a 29 + 10 gallon sump.

 

[W1ngz]

As the water level in the return section falls, it effects the return pump's flow in very small amounts. The pump works just a little harder even just to move the water an extra inch or two in height when the level falls. This changes the flow into the tank, which alters the balance you set up when quieting down the overflow.

The good news is you're already working on fixing the problem, since the answer is your ATO that you're setting up.

 

[W1ngz]

Now that I look closely at your pictures, I see the heater in the return section. That's not a good place at all for it, as if the water level does drop, you risk the heater overheating and cracking the glass. Put it in one of the sections that has a constant water level.

A broken/cracked heater could be an electrocution hazard, will likely release toxic metals into the water and kill things or stop heating and create a temperature stress event in the tank which could result in some deaths.

 

[John A!10]

Now that I look closely at your pictures, I see the heater in the return section. That's not a good place at all for it, as if the water level does drop, you risk the heater overheating and cracking the glass. Put it in one of the sections that has a constant water level.

A broken/cracked heater could be an electrocution hazard, will likely release toxic metals into the water and kill things or stop heating and create a temperature stress event in the tank which could result in some deaths.

Don’t worry, I didn’t feel like going to the basement, these where old pictures, the heater had already been moved.

 

[PotomacReef]

One thing you could do that is short of an ATO is to make a DIY RO/DI drip system. I have done this with a 5 gallon plastic storage tote and 1/4" HDPE tubing. All you need is a 1/4" push to connect valve, bulkhead union, and the HDPE tubing. It's not very pretty, but it really helps the big swings in the sump level.

Use the valve to control the drip rate (like you would in a drip acclimation system or a FW tank drip water change system). Just make the drip rate super slow. It really eliminates the heavy fluctuations due to evaporation. This is the key...getting a nice slow drip rate so you don't over fill your tank. It's better to under fill at first. Also, as the water level in the reservoir gets lower the drip rate decreases. But the good thing is the variance in the level in the sump isn't that high because you have a drip system to offset a majority of the evaporation.

It may take some time to monitor the rates and the sump levels.

 

[eggplantparrot]

i have been using a gravity fed ATO since i started, and it has been awesome. the valve allows even the tiniest trickle of water to go through so the waterline is literally non-changing.

 

[John A!10]

i have been using a gravity fed ATO since i started, and it has been awesome. the valve allows even the tiniest trickle of water to go through so the waterline is literally non-changing.

I’m thinking of a very simple gravity fed for now, till I can upgrade to a xp duetto.

 

[W1ngz]

Sometimes fancy ATOs aren't needed. I've always just had a gravity fed ATO on my tank run by a float valve, and it's worked just fine. Cost me about 20$.

 

[PotomacReef]

Sometimes fancy ATOs aren't needed. I've always just had a gravity fed ATO on my tank run by a float valve, and it's worked just fine. Cost me about 20$.

Exactly! I did this for years until I purchased an ATO system. Honestly, it's less to clean and maintain. Downside is: it's ugly and if you don't have a fish room behind your setup then it sits out next to your tank and is difficult to hide.

Maybe hide it behind a big fern or something? haha

 

[W1ngz]

Maybe hide it behind a big fern or something? haha

Mine has always just been on a stand next to my tank with my test kits and small tank workspace. Hiding it inside a small box that matches the tank stand has been on my "I'll get around to it" list for a couple years lol.

 

[PotomacReef]

Mine has always just been on a stand next to my tank with my test kits and small tank workspace. Hiding it inside a small box that matches the tank stand has been on my "I'll get around to it" list for a couple years lol.

Oh man, if put anything else on my "i'll get around to it" list my gf is gonna move out

 

[W1ngz]

Oh man, if put anything else on my "i'll get around to it" list my gf is gonna move out

ok, how about the coronavirus lockdown special projects list?

 

[eggplantparrot]

I'm using a ~2 gallon cube tank drilled with 3 John guest bulkheads, 1 for my 14G, 1 for the 5G and 1 as a tap for RODI.

made a lid with acrylic and I think the whole thing looks great. I can always see how much is left, and since it's RODI, nothing grows inside.

 

[John A!10]

Exactly! I did this for years until I purchased an ATO system. Honestly, it's less to clean and maintain. Downside is: it's ugly and if you don't have a fish room behind your setup then it sits out next to your tank and is difficult to hide.

Maybe hide it behind a big fern or something? haha

Well I can’t really have a fern in the basement, but the container that I found, sits perfectly on the rim of the sump.

 

[W1ngz]

That would be PERFECT. And save you the bucks from the fancy ATO for something else.

 

[KrisReef]

One thing you could do that is short of an ATO is to make a DIY RO/DI drip system. I have done this with a 5 gallon plastic storage tote and 1/4" HDPE tubing. All you need is a 1/4" push to connect valve, bulkhead union, and the HDPE tubing. It's not very pretty, but it really helps the big swings in the sump level.

Use the valve to control the drip rate (like you would in a drip acclimation system or a FW tank drip water change system). Just make the drip rate super slow. It really eliminates the heavy fluctuations due to evaporation. This is the key...getting a nice slow drip rate so you don't over fill your tank. It's better to under fill at first. Also, as the water level in the reservoir gets lower the drip rate decreases. But the good thing is the variance in the level in the sump isn't that high because you have a drip system to offset a majority of the evaporation.

It may take some time to monitor the rates and the sump levels.

If you add a float valve to the end of this set up and put it in the last chamber of your sump you will have a gravity fed ATO. (Remove the drip valve and replace it with a float valve in the sump!)

The only thing you have to monitor is the RO tank level to keep it from going dry. Mine uses highly variable amounts of top off water as the weather and temperature change. GL

 

[John A!10]

If you add a float valve to the end of this set up and put it in the last chamber of your sump you will have a gravity fed ATO. (Remove the drip valve and replace it with a float valve in the sump!)

The only thing you have to monitor is the RO tank level to keep it from going dry. Mine uses highly variable amounts of top off water as the weather and temperature change. GL

Yes, I have already ordered the float valve, waiting for it to arrive.

 

[PotomacReef]

ok, how about the coronavirus lockdown special projects list?

YES! Working through my "To Do list" as we speak.