3rd Try at Quarantining Lineatus Wrasse:

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I've lost 2 Lineatus Wrasse in the past 3-4 months during QT. 1 died after I added CopperPower (level at 1.00ppm over 5 days) and the other died the day after I added General Cure. Both were eating well for 2 wks before I added the medications. Right now I have a lineatus and 3 small potter wrasse in QT for about 2 wks. All are eating well (brine shrimp, Mysis and Reef Frenzy). I've thought of just observing them but decided on prophylactically treating them with copper power and General cure. My plan is to start copper tomorrow (will take it 10 days to reach 1.75ppm using hanna copper checker). Wait a 1-2 wks (get rid of copper) then start on GC. The attached picture is my QT: I have a HOB filter (been running for at least 1 month with 0 ammonia), airstone and a pump point upward for increase O2 saturation. I plan on updating this post everyday so if you see anything that I need to do differently please let me known. Any advice or suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks.

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Why are you so set on treating them when there is no signs of disease? Copper is a poison. I say let it be. Observe it and that's it. I'd bet both would have been fine no QT at all. Just my 2cents
 
Sorry I forgot to mention copper treatment will be 30 days @ 1.75ppm. Some here in the forum suggested fresh water dip before treatment to check for flukes. I am a bit hesitant because of past experience. Would it be good to fresh water dip these guys prior to copper treatment? thanks.
 
Why are you so set on treating them when there is no signs of disease? Copper is a poison. I say let it be. Observe it and that's it. I'd bet both would have been fine no QT at all. Just my 2cents
I saw a white spot on the lineatus last night. It was still there this morning. I've been hit with Ick before and don't want to go through it again.
 
If it's one spot I doubt its ich. I'd hold off personally. And 10 days should be enough. 30 seems very unnecessary.

Personally, I don't QT and rely on a UV. Had a bad outbreak then got the UV and only run it after new additionally and then just nights on and off. It's worked great. I now have an Achilles in a tank that once had ich with no signs at all.
 
Sorry I forgot to mention copper treatment will be 30 days @ 1.75ppm. Some here in the forum suggested fresh water dip before treatment to check for flukes. I am a bit hesitant because of past experience. Would it be good to fresh water dip these guys prior to copper treatment? thanks.

I have 2 Lineatus supermales in QT now. I am treating at 1.75ppm. They both eat like pigs in copper. I have already completed 14 days of treated food. If you see appetite supression try live Brine or blackworms.
 
I have 2 Lineatus supermales in QT now. I am treating at 1.75ppm. They both eat like pigs in copper. I have already completed 14 days of treated food. If you see appetite supression try live Brine or blackworms.
Thanks for sharing. Did you use copper power or copper safe? How long did it take you to go up to 1.75ppm.
 
If it's one spot I doubt its ich. I'd hold off personally. And 10 days should be enough. 30 seems very unnecessary.

Personally, I don't QT and rely on a UV. Had a bad outbreak then got the UV and only run it after new additionally and then just nights on and off. It's worked great. I now have an Achilles in a tank that once had ich with no signs at all.
Thanks for input. I've had an ick outbreak b4 and it's not fun. I've run copper for my purple tang, blue tang, melanus wrasse, yellow wrasse and leopard wrasse and everything went well. It's just the last 2 attempt at the lineatus that had me thinking. After the first 2 lineatus died I thought about just observing. But I can't risk another outbreak. That's why I am leaning on treating them. I have 20 gallon of fresh salt water on the side just in case anything seem off with them. Thanks.
 
I've lost 2 Lineatus Wrasse in the past 3-4 months during QT. 1 died after I added CopperPower (level at 1.00ppm over 5 days) and the other died the day after I added General Cure. Both were eating well for 2 wks before I added the medications. Right now I have a lineatus and 3 small potter wrasse in QT for about 2 wks. All are eating well (brine shrimp, Mysis and Reef Frenzy). I've thought of just observing them but decided on prophylactically treating them with copper power and General cure. My plan is to start copper tomorrow (will take it 10 days to reach 1.75ppm using hanna copper checker). Wait a 1-2 wks (get rid of copper) then start on GC. The attached picture is my QT: I have a HOB filter (been running for at least 1 month with 0 ammonia), airstone and a pump point upward for increase O2 saturation. I plan on updating this post everyday so if you see anything that I need to do differently please let me known. Any advice or suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks.

IMG_5012.JPG
I have to agree with the others about holding off on copper for Wrasses....I have 7 leopards and 2 Coris Wrasses and have never QT them, had them for a long time. I would just observe them first. A lot of Wrasses are sensitive to copper. I know my Wrasses sometimes have a spec or two on them and it is always sand. Especially after they come out of the sand in the morning, or in the case of my Red Coris (he digs in the sand all the time) so he always has sand stuck to him.
 
I have to agree with the others about holding off on copper for Wrasses....I have 7 leopards and 2 Coris Wrasses and have never QT them, had them for a long time. I would just observe them first. A lot of Wrasses are sensitive to copper. I know my Wrasses sometimes have a spec or two on them and it is always sand. Especially after they come out of the sand in the morning, or in the case of my Red Coris (he digs in the sand all the time) so he always has sand stuck to him.

I have treated several in chelated copper without issue. If you can properly monitor the level and use around 1.75ppm for your target they aren't as sensitive as we used to think.

Here is the problem with Wrasse. They have extremely thick mucus coats. This allows them to "most of the time" carry a disease without outward symptoms. Then they carry the disease to your DT if left untreated. You said you have had your Wrasse a long time. This is not surprising, but Wrasse acquired today are probably a much different story as prominent as the parasites are in today's supply chain. Just some food for thought.
 
I have treated several in chelated copper without issue. If you can properly monitor the level and use around 1.75ppm for your target they aren't as sensitive as we used to think.

Here is the problem with Wrasse. They have extremely thick mucus coats. This allows them to "most of the time" carry a disease without outward symptoms. Then they carry the disease to your DT if left untreated. You said you have had your Wrasse a long time. This is not surprising, but Wrasse acquired today are probably a much different story as prominent as the parasites are in today's supply chain. Just some food for thought.
I didn't think about that! You are right haven't bought a Wrasse in a long time, and I have been hearing that a lot of fish lately have been coming in with issues. That is scary to think you can have a perfectly healthy Wrasse on the outside, but he could be carrying a disease that could infect your whole tank! I would be curious to find out what is up with more sick fish than in the past.
 
I suspect almost every single fish that goes down the distribution channels has some kind of a disease (or has been exposed to it) therefore I make sure they get treated before getting added to my display! Unfortunately I believe almost every tank in the LFS or even the ones online are plaqued with ich, velvet or flukes. A lot of times they don't show any symptoms because their body has build up immunity to it but they can still be carriers. Don't risk it.
 
Thank you all for your input so far. I'll be starting copper power dosing tomorrow. Based on HotRocks calculation, to achieve 1.75ppm of copper power, I need 25 ml. I am planning to dose 2.5 ml a day for 10 days. 1 ml in the morning and 1.5 ml at night.
 
Just an update: I delayed copper treatment till today to make sure the lineatus and potter wrasses are good to go. All are eating well and seems fully acclimated. I did a 25% water change this morning. Added copper power: 1 ml this morning, then 1/2 ml later afternoon and 1 ml tonight. Hanna checker registered 0.19 ppm just now. Hope they fair better than the previous quarantine attempts. If there are any changes and/or suggestions to my quarantine protocol please let me know. Much appreciated...thanks.

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I would take the sand in Tupperware out.I quarantine a lennardi without it.
 
I would take the sand in Tupperware out.I quarantine a lennardi without it.
What is the reason for taking the sand out? The potter wrasses goes in it to sleep at night. My only concern with leaving the sand and live rock in the QT is the absorption of the copper. By checking copper level a few times a day will ensure it states above 1.50 ppm. Thanks.
 
Well you have higher chance of overdosing copper cause of the absorpsion.
 
Ever consider not QT? I have some biologist friends that swear it stresses fish badly. I don't QT and haven't had an issue. I do understand the risks associated with this practice.
 
Well you have higher chance of overdosing copper cause of the absorpsion.

That amount of sand will not absorb a quantity large enough to cause such problems. Plus he has a very accurate method of testing and maintaining copper levels at a happy medium of 1.75
 
I would leave the sand in, it's definitely a key to successful QT with leopard Wrasse.

Using Fiji pink dry sand, I don't even notice any absorbtion.

Just raise the Cu level roughly .25ppm per day. I have yet to find a fish that won't eat or becomes lethargic due to copper using this method and treating at a level of 1.75ppm
 

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