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droidus

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I have a 4 stage ro/di brs system. I am reading that the TDS should be reading 0, but after breaking mine in, and then running it again today for a few minutes, I was reading 4. This is a brand new system. Is this an acceptable level? What is the range you want it to fall in?
Also, as for the water pressure, I know they like it around 50. I could probably easily get mine to 100. Are there any disadvantages to this, like less exposure to the filters? Is there a desired range or number?
Lastly, it has a in/out area, and I'm not sure what it is, or how it works. I've attached an image of it.

20180610_091114.jpg
 
4 should not be the case after DI resin. The pressure only impacts throughput or how much water it can filter in unit time. Wondering if its possible to get tds reading at each stage. At least at the beginning (the water going in), after micron filter (should be below 10), and the final (you have that already)
 
That TDS meter is broken. The in is the TDS measurement from the tap, the out is the measurement after the DI stage and should read zero.
I will see if I can't get a replacement for it.

4 should not be the case after DI resin. The pressure only impacts throughput or how much water it can filter in unit time. Wondering if its possible to get tds reading at each stage. At least at the beginning (the water going in), after micron filter (should be below 10), and the final (you have that already)
So the pressure, if bumped significantly higher, won't harm the unit, or decrease the efficiency of the system?
I am not sure about getting a TDS reading between stages, but I could easily do before and after. I'd just need to by something to measure that.
 
Run it at 65-75 pounds. The membranes are rated for something like 90psi so dont max out your pressure.

The in position is the TDS going into the canister. That appears to be what the switch is on though it is broken. So 4 is good. You want to see 0 in the out position of the switch.
 
Run it at 65-75 pounds. The membranes are rated for something like 90psi so dont max out your pressure.

The in position is the TDS going into the canister. That appears to be what the switch is on though it is broken. So 4 is good. You want to see 0 in the out position of the switch.

I wish this was documented in the instructions somewhere! It just has the minimum.
It seems that you are correct; that was the input. The output is 0. Is it really that low(4), going into it? Maybe I don't know enough about this stuff, but a difference of 4 PPM doesn't seem like much...
 
The 4 is after going through the first 2 canisters, the sediment and carbon filters. The meter tells tells you how much is hitting the RO membrane.

I just got a 4 stage a month ago after using tap water for decades. It has made a difference already. I have to admit I made an butt out of myself a few times defending using tap water.
Mine reads 2-4 on in and 0 on out. This is good, I drink the water from the tap..
I am hoping to not lose this tank after 5 years to old tank syndrome.

I got a 75 GPH 4 stage and found I had high pressure too so I got the water saver upgrade and get 6 gallons an hour now.
 
I just got a 4 stage a month ago after using tap water for decades. It has made a difference already. I have to admit I made an *** out of myself a few times defending using tap water.
Mine reads 2-4 on in and 0 on out. This is good, I drink the water from the tap..

You can use tap water? What did you do before? Just de-chlorinate it? I use to have freshwater, so that's all I did. And how did it make a difference, using a ro/di system?
The RO/DI water output is safe for drinking?
 
Safe, yes but tastes bad. DI strips the water completely. Better off drinking after RO

If you are reading 4 it more than likely is after the RO membrane. This is how my meter is set up from BRS. In is after membrane, out is after DI
 
Sure the RODI is safe for drinking....it's just water stripped of mineral/chemical content. Tap water can be used but it is certainly not the best choice by any means...it will fuel algae growth etc...depending on the silicates and other mineral content. It does have to be "cleansed" of Chlorine and Seachem PRIME is a great choice for that if you absolutely have to use tap. As for the OP's question, 4 IMO is not a good reading and I will not let mine get that high before changing cartridges. Are you DI cartridges still back/clue or showing orange? The water where I live is not very good (Phoenix) mineral content wise and wipes my cartridges pretty quickly.
 
I wish this was documented in the instructions somewhere! It just has the minimum.
It seems that you are correct; that was the input. The output is 0. Is it really that low(4), going into it? Maybe I don't know enough about this stuff, but a difference of 4 PPM doesn't seem like much...

Yep, mine will read around 4-6 TDS before the DI. If correct, you have pretty good drinking water like I do.

OP needs to lower the pressure to the membrane to 60-70. High pressure can damage the membrane and possibly burst a line at a connection. Flood can happen.
 
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Is it recommended to run the ro/di system some time before making fresh water? I already ran it for an hour to break it in.
 

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