40B Layouts

[jodah175]

So, I've come up with a few layouts for my wip 40B. I want to be able to keep zoa's, lps, and some softies as well as an anemone or clam(s). I'm also considering using 1 heatsink layout of the V2.0 or V3.0 for a 24x24x10 frag tank I'd like to build in the future. That would be purely for clams and maybe some sps. These would be Cree led's powered with the meanwell LDD drivers and be dimmable in the future with an arduino based reef controller. On the 40B layouts they would be approx 6-10" above the tank and most likely 80* lenses except for the red/green which would have no lenses. The heatsinks are 6x10 for V2.0 and v3.0. V1.0 is 3x 1.4x24" heatsinks from rapidled. Comments and suggestions highly appreciated.


V4.0 is just silly and me having fun seeing how many led's you could physically fit on a 6x10" heatsink.

color code:
Dark blue = Royal Blue
Light Blue = Blue
White = Neutral white
Pink = UV
Red/green = well, red and green really. :xd:

 

[revhtree Verified Admin]

I hope you plan on documenting this project!

 

[jodah175]

I can document my excursions in sketchup. Lol. I'ma t the point right now where life is throwing me a curve ball and putting me in a holding pattern for the next 2 months. Sometimes neighbors are so much fun. -_- But i digress. I'm really new to the led game when it comes to layout. I understand everything on the electrical side, but when it comes to practice, I haven't got a clue yet. Mainly I don't know what would be considered too much light (welll, obviously v4.0 is too much) or what would be considered not enough when it comes to clams.

As far as the controller side goes, I've been researching that for the last 6 months or so. There is plenty of info to go on, and also a very well documented build. Not sure if i can post links to them, but a quick google search pulls it up no problem if you search jarduino.

 

[GHill762]

v4.0 - that's a TON of LEDs, you are going to have to run pretty dim..

for your "green", are you using green or cyan LEDs? and your UV (assuming true violet not ultra), what nm? the current trend is moving toward more and more violet (4 two reasons, added flourescense and added photosynthesis).

looking forward to seeing this build!

 

[jodah175]

yeah, V4.0 is just silly and will not be built. I'm currently deciding between V1.0, 2.0, and 3.0.

For the UV, they would be the Cree Violet's (410-420nm)

The green are Cree XP-E Green (520-535nm)

I'm starting to lean towards V3.0 but I'm still unsure.

 

[GHill762]

I think I'd go with v3 also, it is still on the powerful side so don't fry everything Lol..

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[jodah175]

Yeah, I think I may change the layout of v3.0 a wee bit. Mainly move the UV's out a bit further. I'm going to be using Neutral whites, so i may not even need the reds at all.

 

[dorky]

Mine is 3 bars of 36 LEDs n mount over the 40b. I like it. Reason I went with this design is cause it doesn't need a lot of LEDs, it cheap n not to mention it doesn't get very hot as well compare to bigger heatsink


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[jodah175]

whatya keep in your tank dorky? What colors are you using?

 

[dorky]

Just mostly acro n monti n millies n have couple of mushroom Zoas n have 31 rb and 29 cw.

these pics are before I install the third bar which is in the middle. The middle bar will not have lens but the other two will have lens it really help with the coloration n creating less spotlight n more shimmering effect


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[jedimasterben]

I'd change your numbers around a bit. Your tank covers approximately 0.42m².

8x NW
16x RB
4x CB
4x DR
4x Cy
8-20x violet

Do not use red, use deep red, do not use green, use cyan, otherwise I would skip those colors altogether. Do not use UV, I would use the hyper violet chips from LEDGroupBuy which peak at 430nm versus 405nm like Rapid's (despite their being labeled as '410-420nm', look at the spectral graph they provide), and also output nearly twice as much light at the same current (920mW average vs 545mW at 700ma).

Basically, you want to hit your main photosynthetic drivers (higher violet in the 428nm range and higher royal blue) with up to 50W/m² of light. Not watts as in power draw, but watts as in radiance. At 1000ma, a Q04 XT-E royal should output about 1600mW of radiance. That should net you 290mmol of PAR from just the royal blue, and 20x hyper violet would be about 200mmol, but also think of them as being like true actinic 03 fluorescents for coloration. I'm not sure at what distance those calculations are based on (conversions here: Unit Conversion), but you'll be able to do wall-to-wall clammage with it.

Also, PAR from a halide or T5 fixture can't compare to LEDs, specifically because 200 PAR from royal blue or violet LEDs is very specific to photosynthesis and is 100% usable by corals, whereas 200 PAR from a halide or T5 is across a very broad spectrum, which is not nearly as efficient for photosynthesis.

At 6-10" I would not run optics or you might have some wicked spotlighting, especially if you spread out the LEDs like that. Cluster the LEDs together as much as possible, keep one NW and two RB together, and one DR/Cy/CB together. The violets won't matter where they are, or if you have optics, because we can't really see the light they emit, so I would definitely put 80 degree optics on those, get as much of that light into the tank as you can.

 

[GHill762]

I'd change your numbers around a bit. Your tank covers approximately 0.42m².

8x NW
16x RB
4x CB
4x DR
4x Cy
8-20x violet

Do not use red, use deep red, do not use green, use cyan, otherwise I would skip those colors altogether. Do not use UV, I would use the hyper violet chips from LEDGroupBuy which peak at 430nm versus 405nm like Rapid's (despite their being labeled as '410-420nm', look at the spectral graph they provide), and also output nearly twice as much light at the same current (920mW average vs 545mW at 700ma).

Basically, you want to hit your main photosynthetic drivers (higher violet in the 428nm range and higher royal blue) with up to 50W/m² of light. Not watts as in power draw, but watts as in radiance. At 1000ma, a Q04 XT-E royal should output about 1600mW of radiance. That should net you 290mmol of PAR from just the royal blue, and 20x hyper violet would be about 200mmol, but also think of them as being like true actinic 03 fluorescents for coloration. I'm not sure at what distance those calculations are based on (conversions here: Unit Conversion), but you'll be able to do wall-to-wall clammage with it.

Also, PAR from a halide or T5 fixture can't compare to LEDs, specifically because 200 PAR from royal blue or violet LEDs is very specific to photosynthesis and is 100% usable by corals, whereas 200 PAR from a halide or T5 is across a very broad spectrum, which is not nearly as efficient for photosynthesis.

At 6-10" I would not run optics or you might have some wicked spotlighting, especially if you spread out the LEDs like that. Cluster the LEDs together as much as possible, keep one NW and two RB together, and one DR/Cy/CB together. The violets won't matter where they are, or if you have optics, because we can't really see the light they emit, so I would definitely put 80 degree optics on those, get as much of that light into the tank as you can.

Listen to the jedi! He knows his leds..
Lol..

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[jodah175]

Jedi would what your saying be per 6x10 heatsink or in total? I'm assuming in total. If so, how should I go about grouping them?

 

[jodah175]

really wish I could edit my posts. Also meant to ask what you mean by CB.

 

[jedimasterben]

That is total. I would make four clusters, each consisting of two NW, four RB, and one each of DR/Cy/CB. What color temperature do you want to end up with? The ratio I gave you will end up being closer to 10-12K with everything at 100%. Add one RB per cluster to bring it to 14-15K, and two per cluster to bring it to 18-20K (again, at 100%, you can do the same with dimming the NW channel).

CB is cool blue, also sometimes called standard blue, or just blue.

 

[jodah175]

ahh ok. thought so. I currently have a 2 10k and 2 actinics over my 36 bf, and like the look. Maybe a tad more blue would be good. So probably 14k would be perfect for me.

 

[jodah175]

This is the latest layout I came up with using 2 6x10 heatsinks, and basically copying the rapidled Onyx fixture colors. I dunno, I feel like I've fried my brain trying to come up with a layout that has good coverage, and adequate lighting. I also feel like its a bit heavy on the Royal blue, but then again, all the colors will be dimmable. RB on ch1. NW on Ch2, Violet/Deep Red/Cyan on ch3.

LED Count: RB= 28, NW=16, Violet= 8, Deep Red and Cyan = 2 and 2.

 

[jedimasterben]

This is still for a 40B, right? If so, cut your base LEDs (NW and RB) in half, which is more than necessary for a 40B (6x NW and 12x RB are all you need, but I usually recommend 8x NW and 16x RB on the high end). It is not heavy on the RB, it is actually light. A 1:2 ratio of NW to RB gets about a 12K color temp at 100%. I don't think you're going to notice only two deep red and cyan (and you won't have even coverage), which is why I recommended four of each - also if you're not including cool blue, I'd reconsider that, it really helps keep those two colors from being overbearing.

 

[jodah175]

welp, after some more research, and looking at some commercial fixtures, this is what I've come up with. Also did a variant that uses the full spectrum layouts that a member from another forum did. So, who knows, maybe these are the magic layouts. Haha. I'm sorta leaning towards the 2nd one as it seems to offer better coverage in my eyes. Maybe do a 3 heatsink setup using that same layout?

Again, thoughts and ideas appreciated.

 

[jedimasterben]

Both look good to me!