5017 Osmolator blinking Too High and Too Low red lights

[rvitko Verified Sponsor]

This is the water damage indicator, unfortunately, this is a very old Osmolator so I cannot repair it as the circuitry is very different from what is made today and what I have parts for. This appears to be a unit made between 2009-2011 and besides repairability with this age often capacitors on the board are failing and that alone could be a culprit. You could try a 3 step cleaning, remove the board from the housing, first dip it in distilled water, ideally that has been warmed to about 120F, this will help it evaporate faster, then clean it with Deoxit D5, agitate the cleaner with a brush. Then spray it down with 99% isopropy alcohol. Place it in front of a fan so air flow around the board and leave it for several hours, keep in mind the speaker will hold water, so if possible cover the opening in the speaker with tape and make sure it is empty of water/fluid. Any corroded section have to be completely cleaned and retouched with fresh solder. Keep in mind that the Osmolator 3 launches in a month, so you might wait to replace it, this is a fairly old unit and it is just not practical to repair outside of trying some basic cleaning.

 

[goody]

This is the water damage indicator, unfortunately, this is a very old Osmolator so I cannot repair it as the circuitry is very different from what is made today and what I have parts for. This appears to be a unit made between 2009-2011 and besides repairability with this age often capacitors on the board are failing and that alone could be a culprit. You could try a 3 step cleaning, remove the board from the housing, first dip it in distilled water, ideally that has been warmed to about 120F, this will help it evaporate faster, then clean it with Deoxit D5, agitate the cleaner with a brush. Then spray it down with 99% isopropy alcohol. Place it in front of a fan so air flow around the board and leave it for several hours, keep in mind the speaker will hold water, so if possible cover the opening in the speaker with tape and make sure it is empty of water/fluid. Any corroded section have to be completely cleaned and retouched with fresh solder. Keep in mind that the Osmolator 3 launches in a month, so you might wait to replace it, this is a fairly old unit and it is just not practical to repair outside of trying some basic cleaning.

Thanks Roger. I couldn't remember how old it was but I could tell from other photos of controllers that might was older. I will try and clean it but most likely going to wait for the new osmolator to release. I haven't gone through the thread yet but do you know price? It's for my classroom tank which I try to keep cost down. And would I need just a new controller or whole new setup?

 

[rvitko Verified Sponsor]

If you get the new one, everything has changed, especially the pump, so a full replacement is the only path, non of your current parts wouldbe compatible. While you can buy just the controller, it is 75% of what a full unit costs and with this age, I would change everything as other parts will be worn and likely to fail soon.

 

[danielb]

Yes, but I would generally suggest opening it and checking first, water damage that is widespread or affects the upper portion of the circuit board will not be repairable and in that case, shipping is just an additional expense. You are welcome to send a photo before sending it in, I can usually assess repairability from a clear photo.

Hi

I have the same error appearing. I'm based in Australia so is there any way you could walk me through fixing this myself?

Dan

 

[rvitko Verified Sponsor]

The first thing to do is fine where the water damage is, 90% of the time it is under the power socket, you may be able to see this around the edges, to repair it you will need to desolder the socket, you will need a good soldering iron with a smaller tip and high enough wattage to work fast, ideally something somewhat professional like Hakko that you can set the temperature, work hot and fast to avoid any damage. A very basic soldering iron in low wattage is likely to melt the plastic of the socket and damage connections as it will heat so slowly the heat is conducted away overheating components. You will need a solder vacuum and or solder wick. Once you have the socket out, I use Deoxit D5 and 600 grit sand paper applying very light pressure to get to shiny copper and remove all corrosion and salt residue, clean this down with 99% isopropyl alcohol, once dry, retin the exposed copper traces with fresh solder. Resolder the power socket in place. Any sort of widespread damage, damage near the processor or LEDs is not likely repairable. I attach a very stereotypical example of 90+% of the cause of this issue, it is due to plugging in a wet power supply tip, the other cause that makes up most of the remaining 10% is water that came in on a sensor cable and is where the cables enter. Anything that was actually sprayed, splashed, fell in water is usually a lost cause.

 

[chriscarper_21]

The first thing to do is fine where the water damage is, 90% of the time it is under the power socket, you may be able to see this around the edges, to repair it you will need to desolder the socket, you will need a good soldering iron with a smaller tip and high enough wattage to work fast, ideally something somewhat professional like Hakko that you can set the temperature, work hot and fast to avoid any damage. A very basic soldering iron in low wattage is likely to melt the plastic of the socket and damage connections as it will heat so slowly the heat is conducted away overheating components. You will need a solder vacuum and or solder wick. Once you have the socket out, I use Deoxit D5 and 600 grit sand paper applying very light pressure to get to shiny copper and remove all corrosion and salt residue, clean this down with 99% isopropyl alcohol, once dry, retin the exposed copper traces with fresh solder. Resolder the power socket in place. Any sort of widespread damage, damage near the processor or LEDs is not likely repairable. I attach a very stereotypical example of 90+% of the cause of this issue, it is due to plugging in a wet power supply tip, the other cause that makes up most of the remaining 10% is water that came in on a sensor cable and is where the cables enter. Anything that was actually sprayed, splashed, fell in water is usually a lost cause.

The first thing to do is fine where the water damage is, 90% of the time it is under the power socket, you may be able to see this around the edges, to repair it you will need to desolder the socket, you will need a good soldering iron with a smaller tip and high enough wattage to work fast, ideally something somewhat professional like Hakko that you can set the temperature, work hot and fast to avoid any damage. A very basic soldering iron in low wattage is likely to melt the plastic of the socket and damage connections as it will heat so slowly the heat is conducted away overheating components. You will need a solder vacuum and or solder wick. Once you have the socket out, I use Deoxit D5 and 600 grit sand paper applying very light pressure to get to shiny copper and remove all corrosion and salt residue, clean this down with 99% isopropyl alcohol, once dry, retin the exposed copper traces with fresh solder. Resolder the power socket in place. Any sort of widespread damage, damage near the processor or LEDs is not likely repairable. I attach a very stereotypical example of 90+% of the cause of this issue, it is due to plugging in a wet power supply tip, the other cause that makes up most of the remaining 10% is water that came in on a sensor cable and is where the cables enter. Anything that was actually sprayed, splashed, fell in water is usually a lost cause.

I have 2 5017s to send for repair both are doing the same thing. Can I have the address to send for repair?

 

[chriscarper_21]

I have 2 5017s to send for repair both are doing the same thing. Can I have the address to send for repair?

Here are the pictures of both

 

[drtechno]

Same request as others. My osmolator definitely got wet in a leak but I let it dry out and I don’t see water damage. However it is still throwing the sensor error. Pics are here

 

[rvitko Verified Sponsor]

Tunze USA
2121 Cole Springs Rd
Buda TX 78610

Use this address to send it in for repair

 

[MooreTankMoreProblems]

Tunze USA
2121 Cole Springs Rd
Buda TX 78610

Use this address to send it in for repair

About to send you mine as well if that’s alright… no seen water damage on one of my units but she doing the same as everyone else is describing. Thank you in advance for the help!

 

[rvitko Verified Sponsor]

Yes, but please send only part 5017.000, controller with sensors, no magnets, no other components, this goes a long way to reducing shipping costs each way and I have no use for the other parts.

 

[hvenegas17]

Tunze USA
2121 Cole Springs Rd
Buda TX 78610

Use this address to send it in for repair

Can I send mines for repair? My controler is blinking low and high

 

[rvitko Verified Sponsor]

Yes, but generally it is best to start with a clear photo of the board, not all water damage is repairable, it is not worth sending in a unit with severe damage. If you send it in, send only part 5017.000, controller with sensors, adding even the magnet mount will almost double the cost of shipping each way.

 

[hvenegas17]

Yes, but generally it is best to start with a clear photo of the board, not all water damage is repairable, it is not worth sending in a unit with severe damage. If you send it in, send only part 5017.000, controller with sensors, adding even the magnet mount will almost double the cost of shipping each way.

 

[hvenegas17]

you think it’s repairable?

 

[rvitko Verified Sponsor]

It looks to be the typical wet power supply tip water damage which is usually repairable,

Tunze USA
2121 Cole Springs Rd
Buda TX 78610

It saves a lot of money if you send only part 5017.000, controller with sensors, but remove the sensors from the magnets and do not send any magnets, pump or power supply, this will halve the shipping cost at least if you send only the controller. Include a note with contact and return info, if the power supply tip is corroded, just include a note and we can send a replacement with the repair, I will call for CC if you need to add this part.

 

[hvenegas17]

It looks to be the typical wet power supply tip water damage which is usually repairable,

Tunze USA
2121 Cole Springs Rd
Buda TX 78610

It saves a lot of money if you send only part 5017.000, controller with sensors, but remove the sensors from the magnets and do not send any magnets, pump or power supply, this will halve the shipping cost at least if you send only the controller. Include a note with contact and return info, if the power supply tip is corroded, just include a note and we can send a replacement with the repair, I will call for CC if you need to add this part.

I just shipped the controller

 

[rvitko Verified Sponsor]

OK, thank you!

 

[goody]

Hi Roger. I'm dealing with something similar. My too high light is on and too low is flashing, but moving the top of the power supply can make it stop at times. Wondering if this is repairable?

 

[rvitko Verified Sponsor]

This is an entirely different animal, that is a very old 5017 and most likely the circuitry is failing from age, I see no visible water damage, the circuitry matches a unit made from 2009-2011. It needs to be replaced.