55 gallon cube build advice

[BC1906]

I picked up a 55 gallon cube all glass tank (25"hx30"wx18"d) from a lady that was moving and she was giving it away for free. I need some advice on the build.

I want to add a sump/refugium. Should I drill the tank or add an hob overflow box that goes to the sump? Is there an advantage to drilling the tank vs the hob overflow?

What size sump should I consider getting?

The tank came with a 24" current orbit marine led light. I do not know much about this light but my guess is it is very under powered for this size tank for keeping LPS corals. What light would be good for this size tank for keeping LPS that won't break the bank?

I appreciate all of the help! I am sure I will have many other questions with this build.

 

[mcarroll]

I would consider making it an all-in-one tank with Tunze's Comline® Reefpack 250 ($213).

Since it's a unique tank I'd hesitate drilling, but if you really want a sump just get a standard drain box with a U-tube.

Tunze also makes a nice Overflow Box ($150) which, as usual for them, has some unique features.

But Aqueon and Eshopps also make the more standard ones. Lifereef is famous for theirs as well.

I'm not as keen on the continuous channel designs that require an Aqualifter to reliably restart.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Definitely find out if it's tempered or not first. that might change your options.

 

[mcarroll]

For the lights, you could add another one or two Orbit Marine fixtures....their light is pretty good, they just aren't particularly adapted for coral. So it takes more. The don't cost much and you can find them used....so this might be a perfectly fine option.

They make the Orbit Marine Pro model too....which is especially adapted for growing coral. A single stick would do it...if budget isn't an issue you could make it a DUAL kit to give yourself more flexibility and power. This translates to more mounting options and the ability to run the fixtures at lower power compared to just one stick, which should make all the components last longer.

 

[BC1906]

I would really prefer not to drill so I am trying to get some options. Are there any issues with a hob overflow leading to a sump? What should I look for in one? I would like the sump so I can hide all of the equipment in it while also having the benefits of a sump. I currently have a biocube so I am not real familiar with overflow boxes and plumping.

 

[mcarroll]

The ones I names (and similar other brands) should all be stable and run without issues. The so-called "U-tube" design, with weirs in- and outside the tank to hold a minimum water level around it, are possibly the most-established drain design in the hobby. Just for my own case, I've run U-tube drains on every tank that's had a sump on it since about 1995, and aside from one Eshopps I got that had a cracked U-tube (returned and replaced) I've never had a single issue. Where I've wanted extra protection I have run two drain boxes. You may require more than one for large tanks anyway.

Coming from the Biocube, I think you would really appreciate the Reefpack approach I linked earlier vs a sump with plumbing.

 

[BC1906]

I looked into the reefpack and I think that is the route I'm going to take.

As far as lighting, would a hydra twenty-six HD be sufficient for this tank? That is what is currently running on my biocube that I could switch to the new tank.

 

[mcarroll]

It'll technically work, but I think you're going to find the edges pretty dark. I'd add a second one – in fact, three wouldn't be too many.

 

[BC1906]

Should I stick with the reefpack 250 or go with the tunze 3162 or 3163? I tend to like to over filter. Would you still recommend the tunze 9004 skimmer or should I go with the aquamaxx hob-1 (currently running on my biocube and I like it).

For the lighting I think I'm going to go with the Evergrow 165w full spectrum Wi-Fi light on amazon.