60 Breeder No Rush Build

That is wild. I've never heard of that happening. Multiple heaters too? The odds just seem completely impossible.
Yes, two of them. I can find no indication of what could have led to this, I'm open to ideas from anyone.

I visually inspected both heaters and there are no signs of damage, cracks, etc. to either unit.

I power cycled the Helio controller several times and it defaulted back to the E4 low temperature error and kicked on power to the outlets for both heaters. I monitored for power draw on the apex when I performed this and it hit 2 watts the Helio turned back on.

There is nothing else experiencing issues in the tank. Thankfully I'm just cycling so nothing was harmed.
 
Tested to see where the cycle was today. Ammonia approximately.25, nitrate was 0.8. Dosed ammonia back up. Will test again Wednesday.
 
Well after resolving the heater issue I'm onto the next one. I installed the Maxspect MJ-165 lights on this tank. Tonight I decided to start messing with the channels to figure out a look a like for the future. I set the "blue" channel only to 50% on both fixtures; the light on the left is blue, the light on the right is a very discernible blue/green. Reached out to Maxpect customer service to see what the deal could be.

I'm hoping I'm getting all equipment related issues out of the way early with this tank lol.

The heaters I'm thinking are just switching on way to much. They seem to be on every 20 minutes on the Helio according to the Apex and the stay off for 20-30 minutes before they kick on again.
 
For the light, my support ticket with Maxspect was directed to BRS. I have been working with Brad on the issue and they are going to warranty the light even though it's outside a year given there is a manufacturing defect.

Will test parameters this evening but I suspect the cycle will be complete.
 
Worked today on installing my RODI unit. I purchased a BRS 5 stage premium plus 75 gpd unit. When we built our house a few years ago I made sure we had an utility sink installed with an enclosed cabinet in the laundry room in case I ever got back into the hobby (I used totally different selling points when discussing it with my wife). Used the T adapter on the cold water line to supply water to the unit, ensured a shutoff valve was put in place to cut off flow to the unit. Used a saddle valve for the waste water line, drilled straight into the drain pipe. Install was super easy, except I discovered one of the elbows on my unit was missing so I have to get a replacement before I can really test it. Will contact BRS in the morning to see which piece I need.
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As a pumber for many years I would say to not leave the plastic fitting for long. you can change it to compression and use a plastic ring instead of the metal one in the fitting/ stop **** to connect. plastic tends to break down overtime and then you flood your home.
 
As a pumber for many years I would say to not leave the plastic fitting for long. you can change it to compression and use a plastic ring instead of the metal one in the fitting/ stop **** to connect. plastic tends to break down overtime and then you flood your home.
Do you have a part in mind that it could be replaced with? Plumbing isn't really my thing.
 
Do you have a part in mind that it could be replaced with? Plumbing isn't really my thing.
Use a normal stop **** like is on there now but they make one with 2 outlets vs one. Get the plastic compression rings metal slides into ro tubing. Take metal compression off and use plastic one on tubing and tighten down. Not to tight to break the plastic ring. You will need to shut off the water meter to do this.
You will need one 3/8 for sink and 1/4 for ro. And 1/2 to wall plumbing pipe.
white-everbilt-polyethylene-pipe-fittings-800599-64_600.jpg chrome-apollo-shut-off-valves-afdoscomp-64_600.jpg
 
Use a normal stop **** like is on there now but they make one with 2 outlets vs one. Get the plastic compression rings metal slides into ro tubing. Take metal compression off and use plastic one on tubing and tighten down. Not to tight to break the plastic ring. You will need to shut off the water meter to do this.
You will need one 3/8 for sink and 1/4 for ro. And 1/2 to wall plumbing pipe.
white-everbilt-polyethylene-pipe-fittings-800599-64_600.jpg chrome-apollo-shut-off-valves-afdoscomp-64_600.jpg
Got it. Thanks for the information. I will check it out.
 
Ran test this morning to check on the cycle, happy to say it’s done.

Ammonia (Salifert) - 0
Nitrate (Hanna) - 62.0
Temp (Apex) - 78.3
PH (Apex) - 7.83

Will mix up a batch of saltwater tonight and perform a 20 gallon water change tomorrow afternoon. Will retest parameters after a few hours and perform and another water change to lower nitrates more.
 
Did a 20 gallon water change to bring the nitrates down yesterday, unfortunately it only lowered them to 58.8. I’m guessing that means my nitrate was actually higher than the Hanna checker read, which I think tops out at 75.

A 20 gallon brute is the largest container o have, so I’m open to ideas on how to do a massive water change easier to get nitrates down.
 
BRS got me my replacement Maxspect Jump LED this week. Delivered a day after shipping. Going to install later today. They don’t want the old unit back, so i plan to use it for a refugium light in the sump. I will section off an area for that.

Bought a 44 gallon brute so I can perform a large water change to lower nitrates. Will also use that can after to build an rodi station in my garage to keep water on hand.

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dang, I wish my dealings with broken equipment we're going as well lol. Local store basically says good luck, have fun
I get that. It’s annoying to deal with this after just starting, but it’s nice knowing it’s been easy to work with them.
 
Knocked out another small project this afternoon. This reef tank, and a 40 breeder freshwater tank that will house guppies and shrimp for a display/breeding project, get a lot of light from our front door sidelights. I looked at several options and pursued these blinds made just for this purpose. $75 for the pair and now I can control a large portion of the light coming at the tanks from this side.

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Massive water change performed last night, approximately 50 gallons. Let the water settle for 24 hours and then ran the full line of test, parameters currently are:

Temperature- 78.6
PH - 7.85
Nitrate - 5
Alkalinity - 10.4
Phosphate - .01
Calcium - 450
Magnesium - 80 - believe I messed the test up when performing with Salifert. Will retest tomorrow.

Next steps are to start tuning skimmer level to get it where I want it.

Going to LFS this weekend to see about getting my first fish. Going to finalize fish list tomorrow.
 
Been thinking through the potential stocking list this week. Here is where I am currently at for fish:
Sustainable Aquatics Iced Mocha x 2
Royal Gramma x 1
Orange Spot Blenny x 1
Pink Spotted Watchman Goby x 1
Fathead Sunburst Anthias x 1

Perhaps another, but satisfied with this list for now.
 
Ordered my first fish, ended up ordering two Sustainable Aquatics Fancy Snowflake Clownfish (Amphipirion Ocellaris).

Should be at my LFS later this week, they then hold them in quarantine for a week.

Got my defective Maxspect Jump LED swapped out with the replacement. Also, added the diffuser hoods from Maxpsect onto both lights. Certainly tames the disco effect down.

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6 gallon water change done this morning. Also made these quick tank covers to help prevent jumping, not fool proof by any means but was quick until I decide on a better option.
 

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