60"x24"24" "all access pass" stand

[Tabasco1]

So I am working on a stand for my upgrade in the future, but will work for my current set up. Ultimately I want to upgrade to a 60"x24"x24" DT. But for now I have a 24x18x24 45g cube DT and a 20x18x18 cube frag tank. I will be putting both on the stand and a 40g breeder sump under the tank.

I wanted this stand to:
-have a open bottom frame section that I can use for the ATO container and put on casters for ease of rolling to water source and back to tank. No more lugging buckets
-have a self contained "Brain" for all the electrical, with some dry storage for food & test kits
-open middle section with enough room to easily work in the sump/fuge w room to add some reactors later
-complete easy access-acheived with the front and side panels attached with magnets so the panels will completely open up access with the only barrier being the support legs. Support legs will be spaced so that the entire middle will not have any barrier.

I had originally planned to paint the support part of the stand black and finish the panels with a dark jacobean stain with stainless bars. However I think I am upgrading my light fixture which will be stainless. I am tossing around the idea of painting the support part of the stand with a metal finish with the panels still the jacobean stain (very dark but wood grain is still visible) and accent with stainless bars. Thoughts??

 

[Tabasco1]

Stand dry fit together. It is a bit tall (36" in the pic) so we are cutting legs down so that the total height of the stand is 32" Would love to hear thoughts on the metal finish.

 

[AZDesertRat]

I think you are going to need more bracing for lateral and front to back strength.

Here are pics of my 60" x24" x 36" high stand.
I wanted as much usable space as possible so I made the bottom flush with the floor except for a sheet of 1/2" exterior grade plywood. This gained me 3.5" of height for my skimmer cup and CO2 bottle and makes it easier to get over the sides of the 30G sump.

I did add a center support as the 60" span is a lot of stress on the middle of the tank and I didn't feel comfortable with that.

Also note the 2x6 pieces in the upper back corners, this gave me lateral support plus gave me a mounting place for outlet strips like my Reefkeeper PC-4's and modules. Eveything is up high with drip loops so no electrical hazards. The stand joints are all glued with exterior wood glue and screwed with drilled and countersunk galvanized deck screws. The wood was sealed and caulked then painted with white epoxy and actually holds 1.5" of water if I were to have a leak.

I did a stand for a friends large 300 gallon system that was 1.5" powdercoated square tubing that I had small L brackets welded in strategic places so the oak skin attached with carriage bolts which were hidden behind the trim and fastened with wing nuts and all sides and front were completely removable for access, the canopy was the same except 1" square tubing with removable panels. The sides had full size doors but were still removable.

 

[Tabasco1]

Thanks for the feedback AZ! The pic of the stand together is just dry fit, there are actually going to be two more support legs in the back and front, but they won't be in the center. One will be on the corner of the opening of the bottom frame and the other will mirror it on the other side. There will be 1/4" plywood closing off the center section from everything on the two ends so that should give it more rigidity. So the middle span will be about 38" wide and 24" deep. I like your bottom frame, might take mine apart and lay the 2x4's flat, that will give a little bit more clearance, unless you can think of an advantage to having it off the ground? Might leave it as is too. It is already screwed together. And definately will be caulking & sealing, thanks for that idea! Countersunk and stainless screws: check.

 

[AZDesertRat]

I couldn't think of any reason to raise it off the floor and the obvious disadvantage is you lose extra height for tall equipment like skimmers, that extra few inches can make or break many skimmers and taller sumps. I watched friends try to wrestle their skimmers over the side of the sump without breaking either the skimmer or the baffles and I knew that wasn't for me.

 

[Tabasco1]

Got a little more work done, actually got the frame all put together and ready for painting/coating. I have a little bit of OCD and for the design I have in mind I want very clean and not to look like constuction lumber. I have wood puttied all the joints to hide where the wood comes together and sealed the wood. Tonight I will primer the wood and then put the final coating on the frame on Wed. The stand is VERY stable. I think it is going to turn out really well.

 

[jag10016]

Nice solid build good job

 

[revhtree Verified Admin]

Great job so far!

 

[Tabasco1]

Thanks! I am starting to get excited as it is beginning to look like something! I got one coat of primer on last night. I will be primering again tonight. Post the post primer pics tomorrow. I am then going to coat it in an exterior bronze finish which is pretty dark and should go nicely with the jacobean stain for the panels.