7 STAGE RODI PLUS BRS UNIT W/ RO Buddie Booster Pump

YoCamron

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 3, 2016
Messages
222
Reaction score
56
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
20220715_175911.jpg
20220715_175313.jpg
hey guys. In big need of some help... tubing connections are confusing me as I'm trying to pair this unit with an RO BUDDIE. My DI carts seemed to burn quickly and the other tubing setup I had made my booster pump sputter and produce little product water... any help?
 
Did you look on YouTube, to see if they have an RO/DI Tutorial on how to Plumb your RO/DI? I was a bit confused on mine, their YouTube Videos, cleared that up
 
Did you look on YouTube, to see if they have an RO/DI Tutorial on how to Plumb your RO/DI? I was a bit confused on mine, their YouTube Videos, cleared that up
Yes i did and what I got resulted in this happening lol. There's no videos covering my specific unit with the pump. Hopefully someone with a similar setup can show me the tubing on theirs so I don't burn through more resin
 
The blue tube after your pre filters needs to go into the booster pump at spot 5. Then run a tube from spot 6 to the left side of your membrane on top. The blue tube on top of your membrane goes into the left side of the DI resin.

The black tube on the top right side of your membrane goes into spot 3 on the booster. Spot 4 runs to a drain.

The blue tube on the very far right of your DI resin goes into spot 1 on the booster. The tube from spot 2 runs into your float valve or directly into your container to hold RO.

Right now you are completely bypassing the membrane and dumping high TDS water directly into your resin.
 
BRS does have a Video on your Booster Pump setup. It’s listed as Aquatic Life Smart Buddie RODI Booster Pump. Thomas does the Video on it.
 
BRS does have a Video on your Booster Pump setup. It’s listed as Aquatic Life Smart Buddie RODI Booster Pump. Thomas does the Video on it.
BRS has it with one of the smaller rodi units which I had before this and was no issue setting up.
 
The blue tube after your pre filters needs to go into the booster pump at spot 5. Then run a tube from spot 6 to the left side of your membrane on top. The blue tube on top of your membrane goes into the left side of the DI resin.

The black tube on the top right side of your membrane goes into spot 3 on the booster. Spot 4 runs to a drain.

The blue tube on the very far right of your DI resin goes into spot 1 on the booster. The tube from spot 2 runs into your float valve or directly into your container to hold RO.

Right now you are completely bypassing the membrane and dumping high TDS water directly into your resin.
When I had it the correct way you are saying my RODI pump was just sputtering and barely making any product water. Should I just let it run its course and hope it kicks through?
 
When I had it the correct way you are saying my RODI pump was just sputtering and barely making any product water. Should I just let it run its course and hope it kicks through?

Did you remove everything else? The flush valve? Auto shut off? Everything like that?

How old is the booster pump?
 
It doesn’t matter if you have a Four, Five, Six, and all the way up to a Seven Plus RO/DI, they all work the same. Just follow the Video all the way through, and it will tell you how to hook up the Smart Buddie. Any problems after that, and I would check on a Restriction on Your Sediment and Charcoal filters, by disconnecting lines, before, between and after them.
 
Did you remove everything else? The flush valve? Auto shut off? Everything like that?

How old is the booster pump?
Booster pump is year and a half old
It doesn’t matter if you have a Four, Five, Six, and all the way up to a Seven Plus RO/DI, they all work the same. Just follow the Video all the way through, and it will tell you how to hook up the Smart Buddie. Any problems after that, and I would check on a Restriction on Your Sediment and Charcoal filters, by disconnecting lines, before, between and after them.
I think it does matter if I set it up properly and it’s only making half a gallon per hour lol. Again hopefully someone with the same setup can show me what they have. I have no issues with my 4 stage system it makes a gallon in 10 min but TDS was 6 even after carts and membrane changed so that’s why I upgraded
 
Booster pump is year and a half old

I think it does matter if I set it up properly and it’s only making half a gallon per hour lol. Again hopefully someone with the same setup can show me what they have. I have no issues with my 4 stage system it makes a gallon in 10 min but TDS was 6 even after carts and membrane changed so that’s why I upgraded

It does not matter it hooks up the same way

Out from prefilters
In to Membrane

Waste out from Membrane
Waste to drain


Out from DI
In to RODI container
 
I have the exact same setup. BRS 7 stage RODI until and smart buddie booster.

How I explained to set it up earlier is what needs to be done. My setup is close to 3 years old now and works flawlessly
 
Can you give us a full picture of how its hooked up with the booster buddy? Also i think just using the aquatek 8800 is way easier.
 
Re-looking at your set-up, you want your Booster Pump, as close as you can get it to the RO/DI, Shortest possible tubing and the pump inlet, should be below the canister. Sounds like you are Air Bounding the Pump. Also the tubing needs to be cut SQUARE, and inserted all the way into the fitting. I use the tube locking clips, as it’s just a matter of time, when something pops loose, and you have a flood.
 
Can you give us a full picture of how its hooked up with the booster buddy? Also i think just using the aquatek 8800 is way easier.
I have the Aquatek 8800, if I had to do it all over again, I’d go with the Smart Buddie. With the Aquatek, you have to buy the one with the High Pressure Switch. Then you need to buy a Pre-Strainer and more fittings. By the time I had it hooked up, I was close to the Buddie in price. And I don’t have a Low Pressure Switch, Solenoid Valve, and the deep auto RO Membrane Flush.
 
I have the Aquatek 8800, if I had to do it all over again, I’d go with the Smart Buddie. With the Aquatek, you have to buy the one with the High Pressure Switch. Then you need to buy a Pre-Strainer and more fittings. By the time I had it hooked up, I was close to the Buddie in price. And I don’t have a Low Pressure Switch, Solenoid Valve, and the deep auto RO Membrane Flush.

i just use a low pressure switch. I also have the autoflush. So instead of using the pre strainer i do my sediment filter-> carbon -> Carbon-> 8800 -> dual 100gpd membranes -> 3 di stages

Constant 85psi and allows me to run dual membrane. Rodi buddy isnt rated for higher gpd setups.
 
I know someone who has the Smart Buddie, they can fill two 40 Gallon Brute Containers, in a little over 12 hours. With Switching Containers. They have the 7 Stage BRS, upgraded to 150 gpd They usually completely empty one Brute, while making Saltwater in the other Brute, but have done both at once. This was the first time I became aware of the Smart Buddie, and they are on a well in the same aquifer I’m on. We’ve compared notes, on the purity of the well water, but our problem is iron and trace of sulfur.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top