75 Gallon DIY Sump-Refug

[Ms. Mermaid]

Hi Guys and Gals,
I need some help here and hope someone can assist.

I have a 75 gall DIY sump-refug that was made for me but the return section was made to big.
I would like to move the glass baffles to make the refug section bigger and the return section a little smaller.

Once you cut the baffles out of the glue and hopefully not cutting myself or breaking them and once you find the spot to where you want them moved to what do you use to hold them in place while reapplying the new glue?
And how long does it need to be cured before putting water back in there?

Any pictures that you have showing this will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Spit.fire]

personally i stand the tank on end and use wood blocks to support the glass where i want it, as far as curing time it all depends on the silicone you're using but usually 24 hrs is safe although some silicones can take up to 2 weeks

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

If not standing the tank on end, I creatively used masking tape to hold the baffles vertically while the silicone cured. I also used some wood blocks to give proper underflow clearance on middle baffles.

 

[Ms. Mermaid]

do you guys have any pictures on how you used the wood block? I am just wanting to move the current baffles over from the refug section to make the return section a little smaller footprint.

Here is a picture of my sump now.

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

I did not take pictures of that part. Sorry.

 

[redfishbluefish]

The thickness of the silicone will hold the baffle in place while it cures, but to make certain it doesn't move, small pieces of masking tape on the top edge to the side of the sump will guarantee it stays.

I would suggest first measuring over from one edge to where you want the baffle and then draw lines on the outside of the sump using a builders square. I actaully mark the front and back edge of the baffle when doing this:

I also flip the sump unside down and mark the bottom with these lines as well. It makes applying the silicone correctly easier.

Cut out the old baffle. Use sharp razor blades to do this. Remove as much of the old silicone from the baffle as you can. You ideally want a new bond directly to the baffle, not to old silicone

Now you're ready to re-install. All of the sumps I've built, I've used GE Silicone I (NOT II), with great success. Apply a very heavy bead of silicone on the lines you've drawn....along the two sides and the bottom. Angle the baffle into the bottom silicone and now straighten the baffle up to align with the marks. A bunch of silicone will be on one side, and very little on the other. On the heavy silicone side, use your finger to smooth out the silicone. On the light side, apply more silicone like you sealing a window. Use your finger to smooth it out. Put pieces of masking tape on the top edge to the side to support the baffle until it cures.

Curing.....The longer you wait, the better off you'll be. I would suggest waiting at least three days. The people you've hear about who've had problems put the sump in service too soon.

As you can see, neatness doesn't count.

 

[Ms. Mermaid]

Thanks guys. I was just reminded about You tube and watched a couple of videos and now understand about the wood blocks. I totally forgot about You Tube it is amazing what all is on there now days.