75 gallon mixed

Lysix

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For the last couple of years I have had a 72 gallon bowfront mixed reef set up. It had been stable for most of its time post cycle. I was growing a nice mix of leathers, lps, and sps. The weekend before Thanksgiving I came home to a funny odor, so I quickly go and check on my tank. Things were not in a good state. The tenants in the upstairs apartment have a half bath that sits almost directly above where the tank was sitting. One of the pipes had leaked through the plaster ceiling.
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I quickly ran upstairs and shut the water off to the sink and toilet, but the damage had been done. I did several large water changes and hooked up my carbon reactor. The fish were unharmed but the coral took a large hit. Lost purple and green tipped torches, three monti caps, large pocillopora and stylo colonies, bicolor hammers, and a pavona. The Red Planet acro and red/green acro have recovered nicely, M. spongodes was looking rough but coming back, marbled nem and gsp were untouched and the blue green sympodium was hit hard but patches are coming back.

While this was a pretty large setback I have been trying to view it as an opportunity to upgrade on the shortcomings of that setup. The bowfront tank with internal overflow box has a limited footprint and the curved glass can make viewing up close skewed. I have the matching stand so the sump was limited to a 20 long that was functional but hard to clean and work in.
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This is an older pic of the tank, fish seem to all be hiding. Residents were a pair of photon clowns, melanurus wrasse, flame angel, and a purple tang. The clowns and wrasse will be making the move to the new tank, possibly the angel. He has been a model citizen. The tang will be going into a friends 125.

Now some decisions had to be made, the tank had to be broken down and moved to repair the plumbing and ceiling. I wasn't going to be placing the new tank back in the same place after this incident and also finding out that basically all plumbing runs through the adjacent wall. I was limited to a 4 foot tank and began looking at 120s and 90s. Next caveat was that I wanted to run an external overflow (more to come on this later) so I needed a tank that was drillable. There was going to be a netting on the top to keep in jumpers so a rimmed tank would suffice. Come to find out that deep blue tanks larger than 75 gallons can not be drilled in the back panel, aqueon was a roll of the dice on whether or not the large panels are tempered. My other options would have taken several weeks to arrive and I was under the gun to get the tenants bathroom usable again. Talking with the shop owner he said he would cut me a deal on a 75 gallon tank he had sitting in the back, so my decision was made.

Now that I had a tank it was time for a stand. This time I wanted a stand that was a bit taller than stock and had room for a nice size sump and room to work in it. So I went the diy route. Knowing that the finish product was going to be painted I opted for just some rough cut pine from a local mill. Also picked up some nice pieces of cherry and black walnut while i was there for another project I have in mind.
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Planed everything down and trimmed it to size.
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Kind of winged the plans as I went, basically a Skaker style. I have done the 2x4 frames in the past and that seemed like overkill for this tank. Pocket screws and glue.
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Gave it a good sand and was ready for paint. For the interior I used the appliance epoxy paint. Three good coats sealed it nicely. The framing was painted with a metallic bronze and the door and side panels were done in a black satin. The top frame that the tank sits on was stained a dark walnut.
 
That's a bummer, sorry you lost some coral.

Very nice craftsmanship!

Following.
 
Thanks!

The stand was finished just before Thanksgiving and was painted over the course of the holiday weekend. I did take advantage of black Friday to purchase some of the equipment. The old tank was using a SCA-302 skimmer which I like, pulled a lot of dark skim. Sicce silent 3.0, which was far from silent but much quieter than the mag that is in the closet. Ato was a dual float diy with an aqua lifter. While all three of these worked well they were all being upgraded. For water movement I was using an MP-40 and a Jebar rw-8. The MP was purchased used and after about a year the wet side needed to be redone, which I should have done. Instead I was talked into a Sicce X stream pump, it is small and moves a lot of water for its size but has a horrible rattle as it ramps up and down. Like their return pumps it has a five year warranty, I have been in contact with them and will either repair it or send a new one so +1 for their customer service.

The old sump was a 20 long with baffles that I put in, again functional but was lacking several things I wanted and either lived without or used some form of add on. I often use a turkey baster to blow off the rocks, I would put a piece of filter pad in the baffles but it never worked that well, so I wanted to give filter socks a try. There were several sumps that I was looking at and ended up going with a Skimz up-34. Went with this over the ruby series mainly for the built in ato reservoir, it may be smaller in size but with a triple float dual solenoid for auto refills should work just fine. The previous setup used a ten gallon tank drill for a float valve, while this was nice the constant on and off burned through di resin and the membrane.

It was also time to upgrade my ro unit. I went with rz sediment filter, 5 micron carbon, 1 micron carbon, 75 gpd filmtec membrane, and two di chambers for a six stage unit. Also added an inline tds meter for post membrane and first di measurements. I also added a flush valve flow restrictor to help with creep. After install post membrane was 1-2 and 0 after first di canister. I also plan on hooking up a drinking water tap after the membrane so I installed it under the sink this time. Lines were left long for now, the di line will eventually run into the basement then over to my tank.
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New skimmer is a Reef Octopus Classic 150 Space Saver
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For ATO went with the Tunze osmolator but instead of their pump will switch a relay to an aqualifter so I don't have to worry about siphoning out of the reservoir.
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Reactors are being reused from the old tank, a BRS mini and standard, for carbon and GFO. I am also going to try biopellets on this tank so I'm giving a spyglass a try. Reactor flow will be driven by a Sicce 0.5 and a nano.
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Deciding on a return pump took a couple days, I really wanted something quieter than what I have used but wasn't sure what route to go. I have seen the Eheim 1260 in action, but then I saw a Vectra and a waveline. Hmm, after spending some time reading reviews on all sorts of pumps I totally just track and purchased a Jecod DCT-6000. I have had two Jebao rw-8s since their release which gave me some encouragement. Now that I have it running I can hear a slight dc motor whine but nothing like my old pumps. It also moves some water in comparison.

Heater is a Finnex 500w on their controller and an Eheim back up.

Dosing pumps are two BRS 1.1s for calcium and alk, mag will still be dosed manually for now. The old setup used a dp-4 for about a year with no issues

Previous tanks have used stock stand pipes and herbie overflows, while the herbie was quiet it required adjustments frequently so this time I was opting for a Bean Animal drain. I wanted to use an internal weir with external box. The synnergy and savvy seem to always be out of stock so I figured the eshopps knock off would work well enough. The jury is still out on this one will post more about it later.
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Plumbing was done in red sch 40 pipe with dark gray sch 80 fittings. Spears gate valve on the siphon line and a true union ball valve for the return line.
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My dining room is currently more like a fish room
 
Thanks Gator!

Most of my equipment had arrived so it was time to start getting the new tank set up. I was waiting on the overflow and bulkheads for the returns. The overflow box required two 1.5 inch holes and was putting in two 3/4 bulkheads for returns. I had drilled holes in the past freehand and they worked but sometimes there would be some bit walking as I started drilling so I picked up a bit guide from BRS with some other things. It worked quite well just make sure the area under the suction cup is clean and dry as you clamp it down. Grabbed some plumbers putty to make a dam and went to town. Smooth sailing for the four holes. Also took this time to paint the back of the tank black, leaving an area around the overflow holes where the gaskets go free of paint for a better seal. Even having drilled holes in the past it is still a little nerve racking so I forgot to take a pic. This is as I was installing the overflow and bulkheads.
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Deep Blue rims have two tracks that give the brace more support, I notched the weir the best I could to get it to the base of the trim. Ended up with about an 1/8th of an inch gap. Also notice how long the slits are, they stop about 3/4" below the trim. Wasn't sure at this point where my water line was going to end up but really didn't want it visible below the trim. If needed I'm figuring that a small piece of black acrylic can cover the lower part of the slits and thread it on with two black nylon screws. Will get to more about the overflow later. Side note the flash makes this pic pretty bad.

Cleaned up the tank and brought it out and put it on the stand. Put a level across the top and woah not even close. Back to front was perfect on both sides but left to right was about 5/8" which wasn't going to suffice. I scribed a line across the bottom of the stand and had the power planer in hand but it was too nice to slaughter in such a way. I planed down a piece of oak (still needs to be painted for a match) for the low side difference then used every composite shim I had to finish the runs. The finish result
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As the previous post stated, I used red and black sch 40 pipes and gray sch 80 fittings. Ordered these online and was sure that I forgot something and was going to have to wait or use a white fitting from the big box stores for the time being. Didn't happen.
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I still have some cord management to do but everything fit nicely. At this point I wanted to do a leak test but couldn't find my hose to sink adapter so rolled the dice and started filling with ro/di. I am happy with the sump, the socks in series lets me run an incremental mechanical filtration. I purchased 5 extra 300 micron skimz socks then another 5-200 and 5-100 micron 4 inch socks. The plastic on the socks takes a bit maneuvering to fit but work just fine. I will likely diy some in the future.
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I let it fill overnight and while at work the next day, when I got back home it was just below the bulkheads so I shut off the supply. For salt I'm using Red Sea Coral Pro, also have used their supplements for a couple years. I have thought about going back to regular Instant Ocean and modifying it to my desired levels but not at this point. I let the salt dissolve then added a heater. Ideally I would have scaped my rock now, but it was late and there was going to be a sand storm no matter what so I just added the sand and let it settle overnight with a reactor packed with floss to help it along. I like the look of the fine sands, oolite etc but like the stability of the reef select so I compromised with some Fiji Pink, around 80 pounds worth. If this were going to be a full blown sps build I would probably go bare bottom but I plan on keeping some burrowing wrasses this go round.
A pic of the storm
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By the following morning everything had settled and I was happy with the amount of sand.
 
Information was very helpful.since i am just getting started on my new tank setup.i havent had a reef tank in over 5yrs.i am gathering all the information i can.i know alot has changed in the market.and want to make informed , tried , techniques for sure.thankyou for sharing i will follow you.
 
Time for an overdue update.
Tank is looking pretty good, some progress but still lots to do. Been a busy month. After the water cleared there was a lot to do. Got up early on a Sunday morning and started moving everything over to its new home. Corals were placed in a holding tank with a powerhead and heater, fish were put in a 29 gallon tank during the move. Moving the rock over was pretty straight forward but stirred up the sand again so the aquascaping was going to have to wait. Used about 20 gallons of the old tanks water to get the level where I wanted it and fired up the return pump. In the past I have used Eheim, Mag and Sicce pumps by comparison the Jecod dct-6000 is silent and pushes a lot of water. Good first impression but time will tell. Finished draining the old tank, scooped all the sand into a 5 gallon bucket and cleaned it up a bit. Saw a post by another user where they took their old sand and made frag plugs with it, will likely give this a try at some point.
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Took down the lights, moved the tank into my hallway and could finally access the trouble spot in my ceiling. Cut a small hole, went up and ran the toilet and sink and found a leak from the pvc flange. Easy fix at that point. Put a piece of new drywall back up, tried to match the textured look let it dry then gave it a coat of paint.
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After the second sandstorm died down I did some aquascaping and added the corals. The clowns, melanurus wrasse and tang made the move to the new tank, the angel and hogfish found new homes. Wasn't sure if I was going to go through a mini cycle so didn't do much for a couple of weeks, just monitored all my levels. Never saw any spikes and everything has been pretty stable. Current levels are
Calcium 420 - Red Sea
Alk 8.5 - Hanna
Mag 1350 - Red Sea
Nitrate 0>1 Red Sea
Phos 0.3 Hanna
pH 7.8-7.9 Milwaukee hand held - a bit low, have a scrubber that will be hooked up to my skimmer

I have been using the Red Sea Coral Pro salt, on the days that I do a water change I need to skip the dosing or alk climbs a bit. Not much of an issue now but I have been dosing by hand. I have two BRS dosers ready to go, when they are set turning them off for a day isn't really an easy option so I picked up a bucket of Aquaforest Reef salt and will likely be switching over to that or Fritz's salt as their parameters are closer to the numbers I want.

There were a couple other things once the tank was up and running. If I shut off the return pump and leave the skimmer on it does overflow a bit so they are on a combined outlet. For the startup you can buy a plug from reef octopus that will delay the skimmer turning on. Not cheap for what it is, instead bought a delay on make relay and wired that to the skimmer plug, now the skimmer turns on 5 minutes after the return pump comes on.
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This was taken a couple days after being set up, shows the skimmer cup filled up with water when the return pump would come on. Tried the egg crate to raise it higher and skimming really dry before I went with the relay, now the skimmer sits all the way down and has no issues. Pulls some dark nasty smelling skim too!

Going to leave this post with some spoilers of things to come
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Wow, that's looking awesome! What a horrible way to be forced into a change, however. I'm curious to see where you'll end up!!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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