8 x 80 bulb option help

brad65ford

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Hi guys i know this question has been ask so many times over, hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. Currently have a 525xl with a Matrixx ii 8x80w and have a bunch of different bulbs from ATI and Giesemann . These are the bulbs i have on hand: 4 B+, 4 C+, 1 P+, 1 ABS, 1 Blue Actinic (similar to B+, 1 Super Purple(similar to P+ ), 1 Super Actinic (similar to true actinic).

Though I do like the blue look but I also know i need to have a good spectrum for my sps's. Was running 2 Orphek V3 over this system before. Switching to T5 is so different for me and i don't want to have any negative effects. Currently i'm only running 6 of the 8 bulbs at the moment (4 B+, 1 C+, 1 P+) about 8 1/2 from the water surface just so the corals get used to the t5 switch. Middle of the tank is seeing 250 par which im thinking should be higher or I should let the system get used to the t5's? Amazingly the corals have responded very very well and its only been 2 days. When i was running the Orpheks in the same location i was seeing 380 par. Though i'm not sure led and T5 lighting par is equal when it comes to strength or intensity. Any advice and help would greatly be appreciated.
 
Front to Back…………

Tropic

Aqua Blue

Super Actinic

Super Purple

Actinic Blue

Aqua Blue

Super Actinic

Aqua Blue

Hope this will help you on your way to grow and color up SPS successfully.
 
Thanks diesel. Looks like some of those are others bulbs i don't have at the moment. Looks like you have all Giesemann bulbs? btw your system looks beautiful! Looks like your fixture is pretty high above the water surface, should i focus on par or don't be concern and raise you light fixture. Mind you i'm not running led like you, so yours is surely more powerful.

Here is the difference with led and now t5. the t5 looks dim. but its really not, think its the camera but according to par reading it is surely less then the leds.




 
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Thanks diesel. Looks like some of those are others bulbs i don't have at the moment. Looks like you have all Giesemann bulbs? btw your system looks beautiful! Looks like your fixture is pretty high above the water surface, should i focus on par or don't be concern and raise you light fixture. Mind you i'm not running led like you, so yours is surely more powerful.

Correct the LED's are helping a bit but not a lot.
Not using the red LED and the White is only set to 25%, all the blues are up to 100%
If I turn leds off my par will only drop from at the bottom 180 to 163, a inch under the water surface from 650 to 540.
 
just looked at my photos for comparison, the spread of the t5 reflection on back of the wall behind the tank is crazy compared to the led's that even with two kessils on the sides of the Orphek's. Man is so hard to compare led to t5's being similar imo.
 
Wish i knew more about par / lux difference between T5 and LED to know what is right and wrong or at least target better.
 
Par or lux are just numbers.
They will tell you high and low but never they tell you how good your corals will do.
The corals will tell you if you run the right spectrum.
Let's ask our best friend @saltyfilmfolks
 
Par or lux are just numbers.
They will tell you high and low but never they tell you how good your corals will do.
The corals will tell you if you run the right spectrum.
Let's ask our best friend @saltyfilmfolks

Trying to understand, wondering if i need to get a lux meter or i may be able to get away with a conversion with this par meter. One thing I will do is change the bulbs, believe i need motor day (white bulbs) to get more par / lux . Seems there is a possible conversation number to multiple par to get lux https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/par-to-lux-conversion-real-world-t5-numbers.281126/#post-3416674
 
Just changed bulbs to the following and increased par over 100 par. Plan to run this for a little while and see how see does. Any suggestions on run time, i have 3 different changes. Currently the blue +'s are all on the same channel which i plan to run 10 hours and the rest for 5 hours. Not sure if that does anything or just creates a dusk to dawn effect. Some say turn them all on for x amount of time. Suggestions?

Back
C+
B+
B+
ABS
P+
B+
B+
C+
Front
 
Switching to T5 is so different for me and i don't want to have any negative effects.
trust me, you wont. Its just important to acclimate.
Though i'm not sure led and T5 lighting par is equal when it comes to strength or intensity.
There's speculation mostly on PUR. Led do work. With t5 most report its "easier" this may be due to the lack of being able to fiddle with it constantly as far as spectrum and intensity goes.
Not sure if that does anything or just creates a dusk to dawn effect.
There is some science to rest periods for coral in their photosynthesis. Dunno. I see crazy long photoperiods that work as well as short and high intensity periods that work too.
Its become my opinion and method to set a long slow ramp and med length peak with a similar ramp down. Seems to me it most closely replicates a natural day, it allows me to see the tank at convenient time, and from what Ive read, along with temp control and moon cycle light is how science is making corals spawn in captivity.

I pers don't mess with the moon cycle and temp as Im not a scientist. But I do enjoy watching the corals wake up while I make coffee and get the kid ready for school.
 
Rock on salty! Appreciate your thoughts and suggestions. I've absolutely loving the t5 already seeing a difference and its along been a few days, will also admit the Orhpeks v3's sure did a heck of a nice job starting the system out I just don't like the look of LED's any more can't see what i want to see. I have so many different corals i'm unsure as to what lighting par/intensity they require. If i post pictures of corals can you guys help "guess" the suggested par / lux for each of them?
 
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I have so many different corals i'm unsure as to what lighting they require.
Shure, but I will tell you now. My nicely growing acros are at the same distance to my light as my xenia, palys(both growing out of the tank) gorgs and green sinularia.:eek:
So, if you hitting the 250 300 par in the tank just acclimate the corals to it. and pers Id be much more concerned with correct flow for the corlas.
 
Totally follow you again salty. Will post pictures as well, hopefully you guys can let me know what i have since some i do not know. Thanks in advanced.
 
Totally follow you again salty. Will post pictures as well, hopefully you guys can let me know what i have since some i do not know. Thanks in advanced.
No sweat. Love the setup too, btw.
 
Ok here goes I will number them, some i know and some i don't. Also not sure on recommended high or low light.
1) What i believe to be Green Slimmer (high light)

2) Setosa (believe to be high light?)

3) leptastrea (i have three difference colors they all seem not to care about different light intensity's.



4) oregon tort or cali tort not sure which is which.


5) no clue just know it was said to be an ausi acro when i purchased it.

6) some small type of milli only have had for a few weeks.

7) Green milli?


will keep posting others.
 
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8) not sure red planet?

9) ?

10) milli?

11) Not sure what monti small frag

12) pocillopora ?

13) ?

14) ?

15) ?

16) ? thought it was red planet but thinking its something else


will post more...
 
17) Spondata

18) ?

19) Red digi , thinking there is different types not sure.

20) hydnophora (this is one that i heard needs high light and flow, never been fluffy looking forward to seeing what t5 light will do differently then led.

21) Not sure but like the colors.

22) my favorite looking forward to seeing this undata under t5 grow

23) Not sure?



will post more..
 
24) ?

25) not sure what type of monti.

26) pagoda coral, this one i have in two places the one with less light and flow is doing better (this one)

27) ?

28) this one i know needs more light to color up compared to the other acro's, have a feeling it would be doing better under 500+ par
IMG_3578.jpg


29) think this is called season greatings monti.
 
last post got messed up.

28) this one i know needs more light to color up compared to the other acro's, have a feeling it would be doing better under 500+ par
 

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