9 tds after di resin change

Aidanwolf

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Do you know what your TDS readings are after the membranes but before the resin?? Is this the first time you have changed resin out?
 
Do you know what your TDS readings are out of the membranes but before the resin?? Is this the first time you have changed resin out?
I do not know what the readings are before the membrane, but I have only had the filter for 4 months. And yes this is the first time I changed the resin.
 
What’s reading going into resin?
 
What’s reading going into resin?
Alright so I may have posted this out of haste because I just retested the water again after letting it run for awhile and it now reads 0. Thank you for the responses and sorry for wasting your time.
 
I do not know what the readings are before the membrane, but I have only had the filter for 4 months. And yes this is the first time I changed the resin.

What I was asking was is this the first time you have packed resin in general? You need to pack it in REALLY tightly and it can be difficult the first few times you do it... 4 months is pretty quick to be burning through a canister or resin. It would be very beneficial to know the PSI going your unit as well as TDS readings before and after the membrane :)
 
What I was asking was is this the first time you have packed resin in general? You need to pack it in REALLY tightly and it can be difficult the first few times you do it... 4 months is pretty quick to be burning through a canister or resin. It would be very beneficial to know the PSI going your unit as well as TDS readings before and after the membrane :)
The PSI may be low because I have the rodi unit hooked up to my bathroom sink. I shook the di resin down while filling to make sure it was compact.
 
The PSI may be low because I have the rodi unit hooked up to my bathroom sink. I shook the di resin down while filling to make sure it was compact.

So shaking it down will get it partially compact but it really does need a little more, I've found a measuring cup, I'll have to double check the size in the morning, works REALLY well to squeeze everything in tightly once it's about 3/4s full. Any bit of space between the resin spheres can cause a decrease in efficiency.

Can I ask what you're currently using to measure TDS? Is it a standard dual meter? Your high initial TDS is probably related to a phenomenon know as TDS creep. This is when you start producing product water initially and the first 30 seconds to a minute of water has extremely high TDS coming out of the membrane from previously accumulated particles that have come loose out of the membrane. This will always happen when you start your production up and it's usually advisable to add a T valve to your setup on the product water line after the membrane and before the DI resin. This way you can direct the super high TDS from the initial product water down the drain with the "waste" and once the product water gets within range of the membranes proper rejection rate you can turn the valve and direct the much lower TDS water towards the DI resin. This "can" vastly increase the life of your resin over the long term.
 
So shaking it down will get it partially compact but it really does need a little more, I've found a measuring cup, I'll have to double check the size in the morning, works REALLY well to squeeze everything in tightly once it's about 3/4s full. Any bit of space between the resin spheres can cause a decrease in efficiency.

Can I ask what you're currently using to measure TDS? Is it a standard dual meter? Your high initial TDS is probably related to a phenomenon know as TDS creep. This is when you start producing product water initially and the first 30 seconds to a minute of water has extremely high TDS coming out of the membrane from previously accumulated particles that have come loose out of the membrane. This will always happen when you start your production up and it's usually advisable to add a T valve to your setup on the product water line after the membrane and before the DI resin. This way you can direct the super high TDS from the initial product water down the drain with the "waste" and once the product water gets within range of the membranes proper rejection rate you can turn the valve and direct the much lower TDS water towards the DI resin. This can vastly increase the life of your resin over the long term.
Sure I will link it to you.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DN9DRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wAXdDbJA6NYCA
 
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I had same problem like you 2 months ago. I changed resin and my tds increased to 9 from 2. So I buy new resin from other store, change it again and now 0.
 
Another common mistake, putting cartridge in upside down.
 

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