90 Gallon DIY Stand

Siberwulf

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Hey folks,

I'm looking to build my own 90 gallon stand. I'm trying to (and hoping to) get a build where there's no center brace in the front. I'd have one in the back, but I'd like to be able to take my sump out if need be, without draining the MT. Here's a couple thoughts on designs attached.

My question is, with 2x6s and 3/4" plywood as a wrapper, is that going to be enough to hold the weight of a full 90 gallon? I'm planning on doubling up the 2x6 in the front for added support. All horizontal pieces are sitting on top of vertical supports. I'm not super great with structural engineering so I can't say I vetted this with a calculator. I'm going for "oh dang that's way over engineered" vs "It 'should' work" if you know what I mean.

Thanks in advance!
-Rob

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If you're placing a framed glass tank, a single 2x6 upper band/box is sufficient support for a 48" 90-gal. You'll need cornered 2x4 posts for legs. 2x4 lower band/box is also sufficient and will give you more vertical space inside than using 2x6 at the bottom.
3/4 plywood skins are optional and not required for strength.

If you're placing an acrylic tank then design factors change significantly and the load must be distributed evenly across entire top surface with very minimal flex.

I have a garage 90-gal glass framed (Aqueon) on a DIY stand constructed entirely of 2x4, using a single 2x4 top band/box and one center support at the rear. It does have a 3/4" maple plywood top that makes all the difference in the strength and load distribution. My personal recommendation would be 2x6 for an open-top frame, 2x4 and 1/2" (or thicker) for a closed-top frame, for a 48" 90-gal framed glass.

*** Edit ***
I see RocketEngineer posted below. His 2x4 design has been proven hundreds if not thousands of times. I tend to overbuild things. Carry on...
 
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good video for first diy stand
2 x 4 definitely strong enough for 48" long 90 gallon stand without a center support. IO built mine 42" tall so I don't have to bend over so much to see inside. Added benefit is a lot of room beneath for a sump and supplies.
 
You don’t need 2X6 for that. 2X4 for the whole thing is plenty.
10C58423-0E79-4134-82B4-CE3B842A783B.jpeg

If you had all boards shown as 2X4 you don’t need anything additional.
sorry to necro this old post, but if i am doing a 90 gallon tank or any tank and i want to make the stand a few inches larger than the tank itself to fit more equipment underneath...say 51"x21" for example on a 75/90g and i use 1/2 inch plywood across the entire top is it safe if the tank rim itself is NOT sitting directly on the outer 2x4's of the top frame?
 
I would sister a 2x4 around the inside of the top frame to keep the weight directly supported by more than the plywood. Perhaps over engineered, but easier to sleep at night for me.
 
You don’t need 2X6 for that. 2X4 for the whole thing is plenty.
10C58423-0E79-4134-82B4-CE3B842A783B.jpeg

If you had all boards shown as 2X4 you don’t need anything additional.
Hi! I know I’m replying to an old post, but I’m hoping you’ll see it. Would this also be sufficient for a 36’ 90g tank? Or would I need more reinforcement in the middle, as it’s a smaller footprint for the weight?
 
What are the purpose of the green studs. Is that where you rest the plywood on
 
What are the purpose of the green studs. Is that where you rest the plywood on
For me the green boards were screwed to the top and bottom frames then I screwed the purple corner boards to them. I believe I put a few toe screws in as well but I wanted a sturdier connection than just the toe screws.
 
Did you need the green boards for support for the stand. That would surprise me considering the double 2x4 in each corner
 
You don’t need 2X6 for that. 2X4 for the whole thing is plenty.
10C58423-0E79-4134-82B4-CE3B842A783B.jpeg

If you had all boards shown as 2X4 you don’t need anything additional.
This. Tutorials are on YouTube
 
The green boards add stiffness to the overall frame. since they are continuous from floor to the top band. Not really needed to support the weight.

I use a variation of this with two vertical boards for each corner. One board supports the corner of the top band touching the bottom of both band boards. The second vertical board is 3 1/2 inches longer and forms an L with first. Both beam boards are screwed to the second vertical board. Likewise, the two vertical boards are screwed together along the vertical length. In this manner all vertical weight is supported by a post beneath it and all horizontal stress is supported by screws into a member that goes all the way to the floor.
 

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