A reef keeping revolution?

reeffirstaid

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Could it be true, that the way we have kept reef aquariums, since their very inception, has been totally wrong? All the methodologies, starting as far back as Lee Chin Eng’s natural system, are a flawed attempt at keeping marine organisms alive? The idea that it’s necessary to replace trace elements by flushing nutrients with water changes, is not only wrong, but risky? In the UK, an entirely different method of reef keeping is starting to gain traction. For a while now, we’ve read some about triton systems, or Dutch synthetic reefs (DSR). At first, details were scarce, the entire process seemed like something too good to be true. No water changes, and aquarium water that precisely mimics natural seawater. How much of this is true, and how does the triton system of reef keeping work, or does it work?

What is triton?

The triton system, is actually the name of a company that specializes in implementing this new approach to reef keeping. They conduct advanced water analysis, and provide solutions for long term water quality. Using this approach, they coined the triton method, which has spurred offshoots which are similar, such as DSR. At it’s core, the triton system utilizes advanced water analysis, to create water in the aquarium that is a mirror image of natural seawater. By utilizing over 100 elements, the first step in this system is to turn your aquarium’s water, into what triton calls, the status quo. At this point, the goal is to maintain a constant chemistry, equal to that status quo, with lack of water changes as part of that process. It shares some concepts found in zeovit systems, some concepts found in low nutrient systems, even a few things similar to the balling reef keeping method.

Altogether though, the triton system is something entirely new. Like the balling method, it involves carefully calculating the amount of trace elements, used by animals within your tank. Unlike the balling method, it incorporates precision water measuring, and elements such as boron, and dozens of others, that we normally don’t pay close attention to. Also, unlike the balling method, the triton system aims at creating supplements that are specifically formulated for individual systems.

If asked to give one word that emphasizes the triton system, I would say consistency.

triton3.jpg

Triton claims to have cracked the code, to long term reef aquarium success, without any water changes.

How do you start, what’s the process?

You start by sending a water sample to triton labs. At the time of this writing, I don’t know whether or not triton services are available in the U.S. Still, there are a few reef aquarium water testing labs, which offer precise aquarium water analysis. A picture is painted of your water chemistry, and compared to a baseline, which is basically natural seawater. Triton can then create a supplement to bring your water up to baseline, or it may be possible to establish baseline, using your own supplements. Once supplements are added, the tank is left to run on its own, for about a month. No water changes, no additives, nothing. After that period, another water sample is sent in. Now, it’s possible to calculate a precise average of how many elements your aquarium utilizes, on a month to month, or week to week basis.

Once calculated, the aquarist implements daily home testing and supplementation, to maintain base line water quality. Sounds easy enough, right?

triton-reef-elementz-2.jpg

While water testing is nothing new, triton looks at over 100 elements.




The theory behind triton:

I’ve been in touch with triton systems, with some questions regarding their approach, but have yet to hear from them. One question that comes to mind, what about nutrients? In various literature on triton, or DSR, it suggests that nutrient values, such as nitrate or phosphate, or even specific element composition, such as magnesium levels, are not the area of concern in reef aquaria. Triton suggests that consistency, is a far more important factor. They point to aquariums, two of which may have different water chemistry compositions, but both produce beautiful coral. This would make one question if specific target values of nitrate, phosphate, calcium, etc, are the key to success. According to triton, their not, consistency is.

Triton points out, that water changes alone cannot keep reef aquarium water constant. We turn to dosing, with calcium supplements, trace elements, etc. We risk either dosing too much, or too little, and thus employ water changes to restore balance. According to triton, water changes themselves, are inherently risky, as residual dosing elements remain, and water changes are not entirely precise, and create fluctuating water chemistry. The goal behind the system is creating baseline water, and keeping it that way, with no water changes, ever.

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One thing is for sure, reefs using the triton system, sure aren't ugly

Some possible short comings:

The problem I see, how does the aquarist keep nutrients low, without water changes or disturbing other aspects of the triton system. Zeovit is an option, yet zeovit employs its own system of supplements, dosing, ammino acids, etc. A bio-pellet reactor, or biological de-nitrator, also uses its own system of dosing, and media. Either of these options, would likely conflict with the consistency triton is trying to establish. An up-flow algae scrubber is an option, but algae scrubbers modify water chemistry, absorbing co2, releasing oxygen, and burrowing trace elements from the water. Even a protein skimmer, can perform differently due to time or conditions, altering the consistency of water chemistry. Triton seems to suggest that worrying about nutrient values is un-necessary, but we all know that high levels of phosphate, nitrate and other compounds, have an effect on our reef systems, and nearly any form of biological or mechanical nutrient removal, will have some impact on water chemistry. They recommend a refugium, or lagoon, of macroalgae at least 20% the aquarium's water capacity, but we all know, at times, refugiums alone are not enough to prevent nutrient overload.

Also, what happens when new animals are added to the aquarium? You grab a couple of frags at a swap, or order some nice colonies online, is it back to the drawing board with another water test, waiting, and calculating your tank’s new dosing regimen?

IMG_5396.jpg


Final thoughts:

Since information is limited on the triton system, or how it operates entirely, it’s hard to say how it functions, when implemented properly. I will say, triton is correct in saying that current supplements are very broad, simply using aquarium volume as a measurement of how much to use. All species of corals, even fish, utilize and require different compounds, so a one size fits all approach, seems like a bad idea. Triton is also correct that water changes are sort of a soft reset for our tanks, flushing out nutrients while restoring the correct balance of trace elements. It’s imperfect, but workable.
Is the triton system, or DSR, a sea change (no pun intended) in how we keep reef aquariums? For now, only time will tell.

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A huge thank you to McDonalds workers everywhere, you are beautiful!
 
Yes I guess OP had not seen GlennF post. Triton is a good system also.

I have been watching bids on the triton stores in Germany and I dont think I have ever seen aquariums with such insanely awesome sps colours! I think glennfs dsr method and triton method should be looked at closely so we can improve the hobby overall and we can all look at improving our own husbandry techniques. Maybe triton uses certain supplements as part of its dosing regime like glennfs iron and carbon dosing to keep pollutant levels acceptable. I have a aquarium maintenance business and I am always trying to give information like this to my customers so that they have even better systems with even less work and money - I am going to give glennfs method a shot !

on a side note we have some businesses here in oz who are using algal cultures in suspension to consume nitrates and phosphates in ponds and saltwater aquaculture systems to levels below 0.05ppm and the actual byproduct I.e. Is then harvested to create fish food and other animal foods! The future is exciting!
 
Dsr and triton are different methods.

Triton is actually very very similar (but much more expensive) to balling classic.

With triton you test and maintain your alk and dose in balance (as per classic) but where in classic you keep up with water changes to dilute out the untestable and add minerals aren't dosing, in triton you regularly send a water sample to be (icp) tested and they give you adjustments to make based on the results.
Detox programs for high metals, dosing programs for low iodine, boron etc etc can prove very costly, as can the tests.

To me the cost, the waiting for test's to come back and the dosing etc make it quite unattractive. I calculated it would cost aprox $1000 a year more on my system than my current balling and wc routine.
Because I've developed a wc routine that minimises effort triton doesn't attract me at all
 
Interesting, but sounds needlessly complicated and expensive. It is always nice to see new ways of accomplishing the same thing though.
 
This is interesting. I work in a chemical lab where we do a lot of water testing, and I have the capabilities to test water using absorption spectrophography, getting (accurate) results up to 1/10th of a PPM. Ive tested my aquarium water, and tested the concentration of several supplements, and then adjusted the tank accordingly. Basically the same thing as what this sounds like. My question is.. what about nitrates? Dont those continue to build up in aquariums over time, which is why the water changes are necessary?
 
gee.

don't do water changes
balance out a tank with macro or other plant life.
and dose stuff.

Wonder who had been advocating those methods for years. :squigglemouth:

I think they will find out there is some minimal dosing of everything that is acceptable.

And that with macros even slight overdosing is brought back into line by bioaccumulation of the algaes.

But the key is balancing out the system and then not doing water changes.

But then even just plain old tap water has some of those trace elements.

And macros accumulate those as well.

Will be following this.

wonder what Paul B thinks?
 
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Interesting, but sounds needlessly complicated and expensive. It is always nice to see new ways of accomplishing the same thing though.

In fairness to the Triton guys they have actually made it fairly easy (but it is expensive).

To use the triton method properly there is a guide, the guide tells you how to layout your sump, what GPH rating pump you should use for sump turnover etc etc.
One of these rules is that the Algae area of the sump must be a minimum of 10% of your display volume etc.

The Nitrates are dealt with by the Algae in Triton, and you are supposed to use their recommended Phosphate remover (an Aluminium based one). I believe this is because the Elementz (The triton liquid products) have a fixed Fe level that you would mess up using an Iron based phos remover.

When you get your test results they give you guidelines on what to do, ie Buy this product, add 50ml a day for 2 weeks then a maintenance dose of 5ml a day from then on etc etc.

From what I can see people who follow the guides and advice strictly, send off water for tests frequently and use the products Triton sell have alot of sucess. Basically they are doing the thinking for you. But it comes at a very high price.

A good (or bad) expample is you are supposed to use Triton Brand DI products for your RO unit. They are about 40 times higher in price than my current brand.
The Aluminium based Phosphate remover is about 15 times the price of the one I buy.
The Triton brand Iodine solution is about 12 times the price I pay etc etc

If you can afford to spend the money, Triton can actually take alot of the effort out of running an SPS tank, if to you the effort is learning about the chemistry and reacting to things, and if the effort is water changing regularly.

To me I'd rather spend the money I save on fish, Corals and other hobbies
 
At the leading edge many things cost more. The equipment used for testing at the Triton level is high dollar and lab grade stuff is high dollars stuff. Thats why DSR is a way of running the tank at a more hobbyist version of the element balancing that most here that would be interested in this approach would want to use. I don't know if Trition even has plans to address the US market as they would have to set up a testing lab in the US to do it properly. The problem with water changes regularly it is the dumb hammer approach to the chemistry of your tank.As corals grow they use different elements in different amounts. Maybe more of this one month and less of that the next.In a mixed reef tank if little testing and logging are not done one is relying on dumb luck that the water change will give one the proper balance that the corals need at that moment in time. Just think back to the natural environment of the reef the corals really are not exposed to the same water constantly as a coral in a tank is. Do replicate this in our home tanks one would have to do a constant water change as some fresh water hobbyist do for some fresh water fish's. DSR and Triton are a step in that direction of giving the corals what they need to thrive. An that is why you see such amazing corals in these tanks.
 
At the leading edge many things cost more. The equipment used for testing at the Triton level is high dollar and lab grade stuff is high dollars stuff. Thats why DSR is a way of running the tank at a more hobbyist version of the element balancing that most here that would be interested in this approach would want to use..
This is exactly the way GlennF described it. Basically achieving the same system through various home testing methods that are more friendly for a home hobbyist via purchased test kits. My question is what specific test kits do you need, and how much do they cost?
 
One thing I agree with whole heartedly is that consistency/stability is the most important thing. Beautiful tanks exist at a broad range of nitrate, phosphate and alkalinity levels.

I don't think water changes are a very effective method of nutrient export. I've gone long periods without a WC and seen no difference in nutrient levels.
 
Love this stuff, so many ways to accomplish a desirable end result. I have sorta-kinda been taking a similar approach to my system in mostly just dosing to replace used elements. My 125g (160g+ overall) have only done 7-8 30 gallon water changes over the past 31 months, and it is a very high bio-load system. I do over skim, run a Phosban reactor and Ozone for mechanical filtration and have a large refugium proportionally to my DT being 36x18x10+ in size full of mixed macro algae. I rarely have detectable levels of Nitrate or Phosphate present though know that there are plenty being processed as feed very heavy as well with 21 Fish including 5 Tangs and more Coral than most 180-210g systems. My only issues have been operator error, myself for not catching a plugged Alk dosing line causing some STN on a few Acro colonies. And a Cyano outbreak from the Nualgi trial (messing with something not broken) seen in the Top-Downs

FTS 7/1/14
FTS 7-01-14.jpg


Top Downs 5/16/14
Top Down front left 5-6-14.jpg
Top Down front right 5-6-14.jpg



Cheers, Todd
 
This is exactly the way GlennF described it. Basically achieving the same system through various home testing methods that are more friendly for a home hobbyist via purchased test kits. My question is what specific test kits do you need, and how much do they cost?
Which tests to be used for DSR?
When developing DSR i used the following tests :
Salinity: Refracto meter, Calibrated at 35ppt with salifert Refracto check
KH: Salifert KH
Calcium: Salifert Ca
Magnesium: Salifert Mg
Potassium: RedSea Reef Care Potassium test
make sure titrant D is above 25 Celcius when using the potassium test. Otherwise there will be precipitation on the bottom of the bottle which look like crystals. This wil make the test and future test result useless.
if you put the bottle for 10 minutes (before each test) into a pocket close to your body it wil heat up and the crystals will go back into solution.
Strontium: Salifert Sr
Boron: Salifert Borium
Iodine: Salifert I2
Phosphate* (PO4): RedSea Reef care PO4 test
Nitrate: Salifert NO3
Iron*: Sera Fe test (it works fine, I calibrated it with my own Fe solution on fresh and saltwater)
Redsea Fe test works fine, but it is a little slow, at 20-22 Celsius i takes one hour to get the right result.

* marked are strongly recommended.

Found on this page of the DSR website.

DSR Reefing
 
TJ, nice tank I am excited by this testing approach as I lets us get more in control of the tank and the tank not controlling us. The more we know about the water chemistry of our Reefs the happier they will be.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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