OP
OP
Aha, now I get it. Perhaps I can save you a little frustration by learning from my past mistakes. A few people have asked how I keep the loose chaeto from going over the overflow.
Simple answer is, "water in = water out". If all the water movement is created by pumping water in from another chamber, then all that moving water has to ultimately exit the chaeto chamber, taking the loose chaeto with it. In my diagram you can see that although my powerhead pump is within the previous chamber (which keeps the intake free of loose chaeto), the addition of using eductors picks up water from within the chaeto chamber and keeps a circular flow within that chamber. This keeps the ball rolling and tightly packed. Now does that mean that no little loose piece of chaeto ever breaks free? Of course not. Self admittedly, I do use a piece of large open pore cell foam across the outflow baffle. The loose pieces snag onto the foam and gradually grow out back across the top of the water with the current, which makes it real easy to grab and remove.
Your way will work also, and better, if you add an eductor or two onto the outlet of the bypass going into the chaeto chamber. (I was actually teeing off from my return line instead of a powerhead in the video but changed it since.)
Hope this helps you, (and I think I just used up my allotment of words today). ;Stop;Writing
Simple answer is, "water in = water out". If all the water movement is created by pumping water in from another chamber, then all that moving water has to ultimately exit the chaeto chamber, taking the loose chaeto with it. In my diagram you can see that although my powerhead pump is within the previous chamber (which keeps the intake free of loose chaeto), the addition of using eductors picks up water from within the chaeto chamber and keeps a circular flow within that chamber. This keeps the ball rolling and tightly packed. Now does that mean that no little loose piece of chaeto ever breaks free? Of course not. Self admittedly, I do use a piece of large open pore cell foam across the outflow baffle. The loose pieces snag onto the foam and gradually grow out back across the top of the water with the current, which makes it real easy to grab and remove.
Your way will work also, and better, if you add an eductor or two onto the outlet of the bypass going into the chaeto chamber. (I was actually teeing off from my return line instead of a powerhead in the video but changed it since.)
Hope this helps you, (and I think I just used up my allotment of words today). ;Stop;Writing
You have made my day reading your thread. Too funny! And the plumbing has blown me away!
?!;Facepalm
(Plus there's room for more entries into the contests.) By now I have no idea of where I'm at chronologically but I did find an old UV filter, changed some stuff around and installed it.
The Seneye is reading over 100 PAR higher than it actually was. I'm not frying the corals. I've been putting them through an extended June Gloom (So. Cal. people will get the reference). I guess now, after reading a few other threads about this issue, I'll have to play the "contact Seneye game" to get them to work their magic and reset this meter.
