A Slightly Different Approach to Bean Drains ....

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Never content to do things the same old way, so trying something different for the three drains on my 110 add on tank ....

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Not yet cut to length, obviously, but hopeful this will ease the fat finger challenges of narrow overflow boxes chez moi.
 
I’ll say it.... I have no idea what I’m looking at here.... what’s the third thing where the safety drain would normally be?
 
I have the same low profile cover for my full siphon. I guess I will need to see how much water the coast to coast will hold before I decide how high to place it though.
I was debating about this for the secondary....
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Not sure what you have going on for the emergency .....
More info! Inquiring minds want to know.
I definitely need something to safeguard the pipes. The holes in the weir from American are definitely big enough for a snail (or a small fish) to get through.
 
Sorry, I intended to come back and add to that first post ..... then got distracted by that pesky thing known as work. Primary is left with a low profile strainer. Secondary is middle with a bell siphon instead of the double (space consuming) elbows. Emergency is right with a 2” standpipe solvent welded to the bulkhead flange. I find upsizing the stand pipe above the bulkhead reduces the water level rise in the event both other drains are blocked. I just didn’t cut it to height yet but figure it will end up an inch or so above the bell siphon.
 
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Sorry, I intended to come back and add to that first post ..... then got distracted by that pesky thing known as work. I’ll explan shortly.
You had to remind me...Catch you later. :)
 
Ohhhh I like the looks of this...

I am in the pre stages of plumbing and don’t like the idea of using the dual double 90* elbows...

So this adapter potentially eliminates the need for the double 90’s?

I’m listening ....
 
I like your thinking. I hate installing these with the elbows and my fat fingers too.

how does the backup achieve the trickle but full siphon when needed? Does the bell siphon do that?
 
Sorry, I intended to come back and add to that first post ..... then got distracted by that pesky thing known as work. Primary is left with a low profile strainer. Secondary is middle with a bell siphon instead of the double (space consuming) elbows. Emergency is right with a 2” standpipe solvent welded to the bulkhead flange. I find upsizing the stand pipe above the bulkhead reduces the water level rise in the event both other drains are blocked. I just didn’t cut it to height yet but figure it will end up an inch or so above the bell siphon.
So, you made your own version of the Maggie Muffler?
For what it is worth, if you have the same coast as I do, you can easily run the double elbow east west. It will only fit north south (front to back) with a street elbow.
I just realized something about that low profile grate.... it fits into the bulkhead perfectly but it does not fit on 1" pipe without using another fitting. Food for thought calculating the height of the full siphon. It does bit nicely on the elbow though, if I go that route. I bought two just in case.
 
I actually did the secondary based on the stockman standpipes I used to run .... maybe that’s the same as the muffler?

I always run the primary with strainer directly into bulkhead. No reason to raise it really.
 
I like your thinking. I hate installing these with the elbows and my fat fingers too.

how does the backup achieve the trickle but full siphon when needed? Does the bell siphon do that?

Yes, bell siphon will go full siphon if the water gets above the top of the bell. I used them years ago as the trigger for various surge buckets (as well as the stockman).
 
I actually did the secondary based on the stockman standpipes I used to run .... maybe that’s the same as the muffler?

I always run the primary with strainer directly into bulkhead. No reason to raise it really.
Well, the jury is out on that one. The c2c overflow is 8" deep x 5" front to back x 54 wide. I estimate that is about 9 gallons of water +/-. So, if the power goes out.... the sump is going to get drilled with ~ 9 gallons of water if the grate is flush with the overflow floor.
One could argue that flush would keep the overflow cleaner, as everything in it would wash down the full siphon. That said, the sump would need to have enough room to handle 9 extra gallons in a power outage. That's a delicate balancing act. Fun Fun.... all of this yet to figure out.
 
Well, the jury is out on that one. The c2c overflow is 8" deep x 5" front to back x 54 wide. I estimate that is about 9 gallons of water +/-. So, if the power goes out.... the sump is going to get drilled with ~ 9 gallons of water if the grate is flush with the overflow floor.
... That said, the sump would need to have enough room to handle 9 extra gallons in a power outage. That's a delicate balancing act.
9g is only if the overflow is full... 8 inches deep.
With a ‘bottom/floor’ drain that shouldn’t happen
 
Sorry, I intended to come back and add to that first post ..... then got distracted by that pesky thing known as work. Primary is left with a low profile strainer. Secondary is middle with a bell siphon instead of the double (space consuming) elbows. Emergency is right with a 2” standpipe solvent welded to the bulkhead flange. I find upsizing the stand pipe above the bulkhead reduces the water level rise in the event both other drains are blocked. I just didn’t cut it to height yet but figure it will end up an inch or so above the bell siphon.
I really like this simplicity. and I hate the look of the double 90's. where can I get one of those bell siphon, or how do I build one myself?
 
9g is only if the overflow is full... 8 inches deep.
With a ‘bottom/floor’ drain that shouldn’t happen
Right. So figure for every inch lower the drain is placed will ‘cost’ you about 1 1/4 gallons.
 
I really like this simplicity. and I hate the look of the double 90's. where can I get one of those bell siphon, or how do I build one myself?
Yeah, made it myself. Used to make stockman standpipes, so basically the same design. In this case I just drilled a bunch of holes in the top 1” of a piece of 1” PVC making sure to preserve the top rim. Took a 2” PVC cap, drilled a small hole in the center of the cap and then solvent welded the 1” PVC pipe to the underneath of the cap. Let the solvent weld fully set, then you can slot a piece of 2” PVC into the cap. I don’t have my tank yet, so not sure how long the 1” PVC will need to be, but once I do, I will cut the 2” piece so that when installed into the bulkhead there’s about a 1/2” gap between the flange and the 2” PVC.
 
Yeah, made it myself. Used to make stockman standpipes, so basically the same design. In this case I just drilled a bunch of holes in the top 1” of a piece of 1” PVC making sure to preserve the top rim. Took a 2” PVC cap, drilled a small hole in the center of the cap and then solvent welded the 1” PVC pipe to the underneath of the cap. Let the solvent weld fully set, then you can slot a piece of 2” PVC into the cap. I don’t have my tank yet, so not sure how long the 1” PVC will need to be, but once I do, I will cut the 2” piece so that when installed into the bulkhead there’s about a 1/2” gap between the flange and the 2” PVC.
I like the design. You should tell Bean his design has been usurped!

Any idea how much flow the backup drain could handle?
 
I see no reason why it would not equal the more traditionally employed U bend/dual elbows. I haven't actually hooked it up yet as am still awaiting the tank, so all speculation at this point.
 
Why add all the extra bends?

In my box I run a bean setup with only stand pipes, no strainers, no elbows, nothin’.

Do you have issues with noise? Or?
 

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