So how much better is the tank looking?
It's still hanging in there! Although I'm sure crashing my alk twice (see posts above) didn't help anything, it doesn't really seem to have hurt anything either. Colors are staying bright, growth continuing. I was actually forced to go in last night and break off a 5" chunk of the red M. cap. because it was about to grow onto another rock. (Only have two cap-free rocks left!!!)
I really need to get more time together soon for that major fragging I keep mentioning....Really, reallly.
I'm in the planning stages of a new build. Plan is to lightly stock with fish and probably some zoa's at first and after several months start adding LPS & SPS. At what point should I start the daily water changes.
Typically I recommend you start water changes based on nutrient accumulation - so watch for nitrates and/or phosphates. When you get to 10 ppm (or whatever cut-off you want to have) I'd start.
Eventually, you will have to do more water changes to maintain alkalinity (thanks, stony corals!!) than for nutrients - at least if you're doing it right.

So, be watching alkalinity too!
* When you see alk get down to natural seawater levels (or maybe not quite that low) you want to increase your water change regime to compensate.
* When it gets to a point that you are changing as much water as you practically and easily can, then you will have to begin dosing. I would start with two-part dosing and I wold select Brightwell's Calcion and Alkalin8.3 to begin with - they have by far the best, most correct instructions on the bottle to get you started. Don't worry about saving money on this stuff until A) you're spending enough to actually be worth worrying about and B) you have a firm grasp on what you are doing.
* When you start to notice that you're spending more money on two-part dosing than you'd like is when I'd suggest adding a limewater (kalkwasser) reactor in-line with your ATO. It will carry a little setup cost, but it will knock your two-part dosing back down to negligible levels and is totally automated so it makes things easier for you. Look at the TLF Kalk 300 and the Tunze 5074. The Tunze is simpler design, so is my favorite, but both will get the job done better than traditional kalk reactors and cost a heck of a lot less.
* When you have the limewater reactor running at maxium and you once again start to notice you're spending too much on two-part chemical you will want to look into adding vinegar to your ATO reservoir to boost the reactor's output
as described here.
* Another option (either in addition to the above, or instead of) is to consider switching to DIY chemicals. At least switch to baking soda for the alkalinity part. Baking soda is available for sale everywhere, so this is easy. The ingredient for the calcium part is usually a bit more of a quest unless you're lucky, and you really can't get anything better than driveway salt - if you can find the right stuff - for cheap. I'd put off switching to DIY calcium until demand is very high. Pure calcium chloride at Bulk Reef Supply is easy to get and not all that pricey.