AC Solenoid Wiring

skyrne_isk

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Can anyone give some guidance on how to wire up this AC solenoid? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-NPT-11...972096?hash=item4666a79f80:g:4X4AAOSw0j9ZWH75

It can be bought in a 12v or 24v power supply, but I don’t know of any AC adapters that won’t have the bulky brick that will take up more than one outlet on the EB8.

Here are the electrical specs on this model:
Coil / Electrical
  • 110/115/120-Volt AC
  • In-rush power: 22VA (Volt-Amps) or 22 Watts
  • Continuous power: 6VA or 6 Watts
  • DIN Connector coil (DIN 43650)
    • Allows installer to run their own wires or cable into the included connector
    • Screw-down terminals inside the connector for wire connections
    • DIN connector housing can be pointed up, down, left, or right
  • Coil IP rating: 65
 
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Can anyone give some guidance on how to wire up this AC solenoid? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-NPT-11...972096?hash=item4666a79f80:g:4X4AAOSw0j9ZWH75

It can be bought in a 12v or 24v power supply, but I don’t know of any AC adapters that won’t have the bulky brick that will take up more than one outlet on the EB8.

Here are the electrical specs on this model:
Coil / Electrical
  • 110/115/120-Volt AC
  • In-rush power: 22VA (Volt-Amps) or 22 Watts
  • Continuous power: 6VA or 6 Watts
  • DIN Connector coil (DIN 43650)
    • Allows installer to run their own wires or cable into the included connector
    • Screw-down terminals inside the connector for wire connections
    • DIN connector housing can be pointed up, down, left, or right
  • Coil IP rating: 65
You should be able to wire up a regular plug to it and plug it straight into your Eb8. Switch on to open valve. Hope this helps
 
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Lol.... your problem is that power adapters take up more than 1 spot on the EB8?

tis called a 1ft extension cord. 6 of them for $12.99 on amazon..

 
That’s what I would use. I would also use a GFIC on the Powerbar
yep, apparently there is a positive and a negative and you’re done. easy peasy. so is safe to say that any 110 AC source just needs a plug wired into the wall? if so, pretty simple.
 
Lol.... your problem is that power adapters take up more than 1 spot on the EB8?

tis called a 1ft extension cord. 6 of them for $12.99 on amazon..

um, yes it is. hence the post. several folks here made a number of helpful suggestions on adapters that would only take up
one slot - thanks to all of them.
 
yep, apparently there is a positive and a negative and you’re done. easy peasy. so is safe to say that any 110 AC source just needs a plug wired into the wall? if so, pretty simple.
Just a wee bit of correction..

AC has hot (black in US) and neutral (white in US) (green is ground).. There is no err "static polarity" w/ a sine wave..




DC has positive and negative..

Just make sure you have the correct coil for what you want to do..
 
Last edited:
Just a wee bit of correction..

AC has hot (black in S) and neutral (white in US) (green is ground).. There is no err "static polarity" w/ a sine wave..




DC has positive and negative..

Just make sure you have the correct coil for what you want to do..
ah yes, spoken with the pedantic flair of a true electrician - you are of course, correct. rubes like my self oversimplify out of ignorance, not malice
 
on a related, but non electrical note, won’t i be able to eliminate the inline check being used once the solenoid is installed? right now there is a MJ400 being used to feed a kalk reactor, but if the solenoid is normally closed, when it’s not energized won’t that prevent any back siphon? the plan is to tee off the line in the reservoir before the check valve, flow control valve, and solenoid so the pump actually moves water continually - it will essentially recirculate the water in the top off reservoir until the solenoid opens. without a solenoid, i’ve been keeping the flow valve mostly closed and the output has been a little inconsistent. right now my workaround is to have the pump controlled via the oscillate function and the flow turned up considerably, but something in the back of my mind says these pumps don’t love being power cycled a couple dozen times a day....not sure if that’s actually true or not, but that’s what I am trying to solve
 
Just a wee bit of correction..

AC has hot (black in S) and neutral (white in US) (green is ground).. There is no err "static polarity" w/ a sine wave..




DC has positive and negative..

Just make sure you have the correct coil for what you want to do..
right, mostly I just want to have the most straightforward wiring possible - that doesn’t block multiple outlets. looks like there are plenty of power supplies that will take care of the latter problem. but is there any advantage to having a DC power supply? it doesn’t prolong the life of the solenoid relative to AC power does it? totally out of my depth here - I seem to recall most solenoids i have used on CO2 controllers were AC, but only 1/4 NPT.
 
on a related, but non electrical note, won’t i be able to eliminate the inline check being used once the solenoid is installed? right now there is a MJ400 being used to feed a kalk reactor, but if the solenoid is normally closed, when it’s not energized won’t that prevent any back siphon? the plan is to tee off the line in the reservoir before the check valve, flow control valve, and solenoid so the pump actually moves water continually - it will essentially recirculate the water in the top off reservoir until the solenoid opens. without a solenoid, i’ve been keeping the flow valve mostly closed and the output has been a little inconsistent. right now my workaround is to have the pump controlled via the oscillate function and the flow turned up considerably, but something in the back of my mind says these pumps don’t love being power cycled a couple dozen times a day....not sure if that’s actually true or not, but that’s what I am trying to solve
If the pump would have problems being cycled on and off, might be looking for a different pump I really wouldn’t know how long you could expect it to live.
 
Personal choice.
AC can end up humming and of course it's 110V AC unlike say 12V DC.
AC also has more of an inrush load but that in this case is is minor..

Bottom line.. "I" prefer DC coils over AC...YMMV
 
Personal choice.
AC can end up humming and of course it's 110V AC unlike say 12V DC.
AC also has more of an inrush load but that in this case is is minor..

Bottom line.. "I" prefer DC coils over AC...YMMV
what do you mean “unlike 12V DC”? this particular solenoid comes in 110AC, 12V DC, and 24V DC, the only thing that’s a must is 1/2” FPT for me to plumb it - everything else i’m out of my depth on.
 
If the pump would have problems being cycled on and off, might be looking for a different pump I really wouldn’t know how long you could expect it to live.
yeah, I have a peristaltic pump that would do fine, just haven’t read the manual and all that. the MJ pump has been doing so well, want to see how long I can have it do the lifting on this. if it does well, i’ll use the peri pump on a water change system so no more buckets :)
 
If you have an open DC24 outlet (like those on the FMM or EB832,) you can get a 24V solenoid and wire it directly to that. That lets you save a 120V outlet and also avoid 120V AC
 
If you have an open DC24 outlet (like those on the FMM or EB832,) you can get a 24V solenoid and wire it directly to that. That lets you save a 120V outlet and also avoid 120V AC
that’s a sweet idea, but i’m on Apex classic so that’s out for me. it is a cool feature of the newer Apex though, didn’t know that.
 
wiring diagram indicates it has a ground, is there any downside to wiring ungrounded? I harvested a cord from an old appliance but it isn’t grounded
 

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