Agree with shep. You have to leave it in each spot for a few days thoughSo I would try moving the acan around to different spots to see if it opens back up and if that does not work then I would go ahead and change the lights back.
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Agree with shep. You have to leave it in each spot for a few days thoughSo I would try moving the acan around to different spots to see if it opens back up and if that does not work then I would go ahead and change the lights back.
Its the diatoms, which can be toxic. You could elevate the colony until the algae subsides. Lighting should be fine.
To be clear: consider the diatoms (which can be toxic) and the implications. Dinos and cyano (also potentially toxic) can take hold under these conditions. Also, 0 phosphates with the presence of diatoms means the acans are being robbed of the nutrients they enjoy.That is probably the least likely of all possible causes and unrealistic. 99.9999% of diatoms are not toxic.
To be clear: consider the diatoms (which can be toxic) and the implications. Dinos and cyano (also potentially toxic) can take hold under these conditions. Also, 0 phosphates with the presence of diatoms means the acans are being robbed of the nutrients they enjoy.
Yea, even if they were accurate to that level, the ability of the average human eyes to interpret the results correctly increases the margin for error.Yeah I have an API test kit for phosphates, and if it reads 0 I still make the assumption that there are some there. I feed a little heavy so I can't assume that a 0 reading is actually 0.
I do recommend you get better test kits however, just as a general recommendation. I personally have experienced the innacuracy and inconsistency of API test kits. Salifert is cheap tried and true. Hanna are my favorite but more expensive. I also use red sea Nitrate proYea, even if they were accurate to that level, the ability of the average human eyes to interpret the results correctly increases the margin for error.
Don't get me wrong, toxic diatoms (literally never heard of this in reef aquaria) and lack of phosphate are possible causes, but high nitrate/phosphate is more likely, even when you test them low (and that's only because your using API). The most likely causes are light/flow/irritation by livestock
Diatoms can bleach poryphyra. I was rhetorically redirecting the attention away from the suggestions to readjust lighting or as you suggested, or playing musical chairs. This would only stress the acan further. On behalf of the OP, I wouldn't panic, the acan is most likely not in immediate danger but I would look to restoring a healthy sandbed—and most importantly what that would take. I'd test TDS as the diatoms are fond of silicate and most likely consuming a fair amount nitrate and phosphate. The problem is not the accuracy of the of test kits, or even so much the results (nothing surprising there) but the sources and utilization of the nutrients in the tank. As long as the diatoms aren't flourishing, target feeding would get you back on the way to a fat and happy acan. I've never seen acan fond of diatoms. FWIW, diatoms do stress and kill corals. Recent papers I've read suggest its the results from the coral's need to produce mucus in defense and an ultimate smothering that occurs.I am considering, and dismissing the concern. Diatoms are rarely toxic in reef aquaria, and cyano must actually be on the coral to effect it in my experience. Diatoms feed primarily on silicate, not phosphate. Regardless, i have .02 ppm phosphate and my acans flourish. My guess is that OP is using standard hobby grade phosphate test kit, which can not even detect .02 ppm phosphate accurately. I would say a lack of testable phosphate and the presence of diatoms are the least likely causes of the corals recession. That's all I'm saying. You can't exactly find a lot of anecdotes or studies on toxic diatoms in reef aquaria, can you?
The diatoms are not on the corals so there is no smothering and no relation to the study your talking about. This diatom idea has zero traction.Diatoms can bleach poryphyra. I was rhetorically redirecting the attention away from the suggestions to readjust lighting or as you suggested, or playing musical chairs. This would only stress the acan further. On behalf of the OP, I wouldn't panic, the acan is most likely not in immediate danger but I would look to restoring a healthy sandbed—and most importantly what that would take. I'd test TDS as the diatoms are fond of silicate and most likely consuming a fair amount nitrate and phosphate. The problem is not the accuracy of the of test kits, or even so much the results (nothing surprising there) but the sources and utilization of the nutrients in the tank. As long as the diatoms aren't flourishing, target feeding would get you back on the way to a fat and happy acan. I've never seen acan fond of diatoms. FWIW, diatoms do stress and kill corals. Recent papers I've read suggest its the results from the coral's need to produce mucus in defense and an ultimate smothering that occurs.
The diatoms are not on the corals so there is no smothering and no relation to the study your talking about. This diatom idea has zero traction.
However OP, if your not feeding your acans once a week then yes that could be a factor. They do require supplemental feeding.
I have no idea what this means. My point was the diatoms are not on the coral so they aren't affecting it. Pretty straight forward.That's the point but you're on the wrong side of it.
Ever stop to wonder why the diatoms are doing so well on the sand bed but having greater difficulty with the acan? Or I guess they're just happily sharing real estate just like everybody else on the reef? OP, 0 TDS
I've said all I need to say to help the OP. I have no desire to discuss anything further with you.You've not understood a single thing I've said and have no right to challenge my experience which spans decades.

