Acceptable swings

[bknapp]

Now I don't know if it's true, but I've been told if you have low PH numbers, that can make the Alkalinity swing.
Would Magnesium figure into it somehow?
(I don't know, just asking.)

Magnesium plays a big role in holding alkalinity and calcium stable. It acts as a buffer of sorts to help stop precipitation and allow us to keep the higher concentration. As a rule of thumb keep your magnesium at least three times your calcium.

I pretty new but I was wounding when was last time you changed the t5 lights ans what brand are you use I had a problem with my growth befor I went to the ati lights and boom It better maybe was luck

Personally I change my T5's out yearly, they're not my main light source. I believe most who run T5's exclusively go about 9 months. I use all ATI bulbs, they're considered the best available.

 

[james2369]

Was worth try thats all I got good luck

 

[abinder]

Magnesium plays a big role in holding alkalinity and calcium stable. It acts as a buffer of sorts to help stop precipitation and allow us to keep the higher concentration. As a rule of thumb keep your magnesium at least three times your calcium.

Thanks for the info.
My Magnesium level runs between 1325-1400.
My Calcium level runs between 450-490.
My Alkalinity runs between 8.5-9.0. I want to try to keep it between 9.0-9.5. So far, I've been dosing with the Red Sea Part A for calcium and Red Sea Part B for alkalinity. I haven't had to use any of my Red Sea Part C for Magnesium yet. The lfs said that their Salt/RO mix is high in Magnesium.
Is it safe for me to assume that my numbers and what I've been doing are good?

Thanks for any info/suggestions/help.


Allen

 

[bknapp]

Thanks for the info.
My Magnesium level runs between 1325-1400.
My Calcium level runs between 450-490.
My Alkalinity runs between 8.5-9.0. I want to try to keep it between 9.0-9.5. So far, I've been dosing with the Red Sea Part A for calcium and Red Sea Part B for alkalinity. I haven't had to use any of my Red Sea Part C for Magnesium yet. The lfs said that their Salt/RO mix is high in Magnesium.
Is it safe for me to assume that my numbers and what I've been doing are good?

Thanks for any info/suggestions/help.


Allen

It really all depends on what type of corals you're trying to keep. Those parameters don't seem bad, I think staying consistent within a given range is more important than being at a certain number. You may want to look into BRS Two part, I'm sure in the long run it'll save you some money they also have a nice calculator on their page.

 

[abinder]

It really all depends on what type of corals you're trying to keep. Those parameters don't seem bad, I think staying consistent within a given range is more important than being at a certain number. You may want to look into BRS Two part, I'm sure in the long run it'll save you some money they also have a nice calculator on their page.

Okay. Thanks for the info. Do you have to mix it?

The reason why I originally got the Red Sea stuff was I didn't have to mix it and it's concentrated.

Is the BRS suppose to be better than the Red Sea? Or is it just less expensive in the long run?

Again, thanks for any info/suggestions/help.


Allen

 

[bknapp]

I'm sure the Red Sea products you're using are good products. The BRS you do have to mix with some RO/DI water. I wouldn't say they're better or worse because in the long run calcium is calcium and alkalinty is alkalinty but I would suspect that the BRS would be much cheaper in the long run. Which one again depends on the type of corals being kept and water volume.

 

[abinder]

I'm sure the Red Sea products you're using are good products. The BRS you do have to mix with some RO/DI water. I wouldn't say they're better or worse because in the long run calcium is calcium and alkalinty is alkalinty but I would suspect that the BRS would be much cheaper in the long run. Which one again depends on the type of corals being kept and water volume.

Thanks for the info. Greatly appreciated!


Allen

 

[jservedio]

Your Alk is perfectly fine, as long as you are within that 5ppm or so "error" of the Hanna on a day to day basis and is completely unrelated to your growth. Unless you previously had swings within the last 4 months, it isn't your problem.

One of the biggest single factors effecting acro growth is available food in the water column. Advanced Aquarist put out an article in the last year (I believe, can't find it quickly on google, wil try to find later) about a study showing that acropora growth increased up to 4x over a control group as the concentration of baby brine in the water column increased. The more food, the faster the acros grew, peaking around 4x growth rate in what was essentially baby-brine soup. I broadcast feed baby brine with their yolk-sac still attached and have seen huge increases in growth (and color!) since doing that.

Edit: Can't find it (maybe it wasn't AA?) - anyway here is a similar study showing the same effects in P. Damnicornus. http://www.plosone.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pone.0098529
Anyway, you can see the point I was trying to make - more food = more growth, even with SPS corals.