Accidently left month old carbon filter when treating with Chemiclean

chad.wick

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Hi, I have a 8 month old 32 gal Biocube that had a significant 4 week Cyano outbreak. I was addressing the issue "naturally" until I noticed damage to my coral. Spoke to LFS and he recommended Chemiclean for now until the root is determined.

Well, I followed the instructions but forgot about the carbon filter thats been in there for a month as part of the kit floss/carbon filter you can buy for the tank.

Treated with Chemiclean with air-stone then 20% water change after 48 hours. That was yesterday. Today, after an hour of white light it appears to be growing back at the same speed it has before after regular water change and vacuuming sand bed.

Did I mess up?

Thanks reefers!!
 
Need more info. Please post all water parameters, especially phosphate, and what test kits you use. Any change in the water flow? Change in feeding practices? What type of food do you use and how often do you feed? Run a skimmer?
 
Thank you and I apologize for the noob post. I know better since nearly every other post I've read asks for that info. I'll learn:)

I use the API test strips 5-1 and the API Master Test Kit when things look wonky.
Nitrate (NO3): Just shy of 20
Nitrite (NO2): 0
PH: 8.2
embarrassing, the one key piece you asked about (phosphate) isn't tested on either kit. I will purchase this and report back asap. Another noob lesson learned.

Water flow has been consistent. The return nozzle faces up to make the water look boiling and my wave make is on the opposite side below the top return intake facing the front glass.

Feeding Thera +A since the beginning with some Mysis shrimp as a "treat" once a week or so (also feed coral with these). I try to stay consistent on the feeding and no major changes there.

I do run the Coral Life Biocube skimmer.

Thank you
 
Thank you and I apologize for the noob post. I know better since nearly every other post I've read asks for that info. I'll learn:)

I use the API test strips 5-1 and the API Master Test Kit when things look wonky.
Nitrate (NO3): Just shy of 20
Nitrite (NO2): 0
PH: 8.2
embarrassing, the one key piece you asked about (phosphate) isn't tested on either kit. I will purchase this and report back asap. Another noob lesson learned.

Water flow has been consistent. The return nozzle faces up to make the water look boiling and my wave make is on the opposite side below the top return intake facing the front glass.

Feeding Thera +A since the beginning with some Mysis shrimp as a "treat" once a week or so (also feed coral with these). I try to stay consistent on the feeding and no major changes there.

I do run the Coral Life Biocube skimmer.

Thank you
FYI, purchased test kit and should arrive in the next day or two. Thank you!
 
The Carbon probably had No Effect, as it was spent with Clogged Pores. I made the Same Mistake with my Quarantine Tank and Copper Treatment, absolutely no change in the Dose versus Test Levels.
 
Running carbon while treating with Chemi Clean will just make it lest effective. I got my cyano under control after 2 Chemi Clean treatments, increasing flow significantly and lowering light for a while.
 
Thank you! I feel better knowing the carbon probably had minimal effect in the treatment.
Also, I didn't realize it could take 2 treatments? Interesting.

As a previous response asked, I plan on seeing if the phosphate is a contributing factor.
 
Increased water flow. Would you recommend a second wave maker? I've read mixed reviews but I always felt there's a few dead spots. Ironically there's not cayno there.
 
Also, don't purchase any more API tests. Get the Salifert phosphate test. Agree with the carbon. Pores become blocked and the water bypasses it. Probably a feeding/phosphate accumulation with time issue. What nutrient export do you have for this tank? What fish do you have?
 
Hi, I have a 8 month old 32 gal Biocube that had a significant 4 week Cyano outbreak. I was addressing the issue "naturally" until I noticed damage to my coral. Spoke to LFS and he recommended Chemiclean for now until the root is determined.

Well, I followed the instructions but forgot about the carbon filter thats been in there for a month as part of the kit floss/carbon filter you can buy for the tank.

Treated with Chemiclean with air-stone then 20% water change after 48 hours. That was yesterday. Today, after an hour of white light it appears to be growing back at the same speed it has before after regular water change and vacuuming sand bed.

Did I mess up?

Thanks reefers!!
While somewhat expired, will have some but not total effect. Remove and continue chemiClean which is at times not a solution. Cyano generally occurs when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
 
I don’t know why people trash the API Test kits. They’ve been around for a very long time. I still have Freshwater test kits, that still work, and I can’t remember how long ago since I had fresh water aquariums. Simple to use, and I get verifiable results from them. I did like the Fas-Test, but can’t find them any more.
 
Thank you all for the input!! Great community and very much appreciated. I will take all the advice and report back.

Thank you!!
 
I would use caution with chemiclean as a bandaid solution because you may open the door to far worse problems.
 

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