Acclimating corals to a new light?

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Tyguy35

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Hey, so I bought the aiprime 16 the other day, switching from the first prime without HD.
My question is since switching to a much stronger light if I acclimate my corals to the light can I keep them at virtually any intensity if acclimated?
This is what I have now and am acclimating at 50 percent.
I have a max nano 20g the light is about a food above the water line. Trying my best to replicate ab+
61D7BA7B-0AB3-4B35-B080-7B909B566BEE.png
 
I'd use a par meter to get the light strength from your old lights and set the new ones to those readings.

Rental

Then, you could slowly acclimate your corals, to higher intensities, from that starting point.

Depends on our coral types, species and placement for how much strength they'll need.

I would not place a mushroom in the same par or flow as an acropora and etc.
 
I'd use a par meter to get the light strength from your old lights and set the new ones to those readings.

Rental

Then, you could slowly acclimate your corals, to higher intensities, from that starting point.

Depends on our coral types, species and placement for how much strength they'll need.

I would not place a mushroom in the same par or flow as an acropora and etc.
What is a decent entry par meter?
 
I'd use a par meter to get the light strength from your old lights and set the new ones to those readings.

Rental

Then, you could slowly acclimate your corals, to higher intensities, from that starting point.

Depends on our coral types, species and placement for how much strength they'll need.

I would not place a mushroom in the same par or flow as an acropora and etc.

I also moved my rocks to make a lower structure since the light is brighter. That is a good idea though. Everything has come out a lot more since the new light.
 
What is a decent entry par meter?

I'd rent that MQ-510 Full Spectrum Underwater LED PAR Meter

Seems like Apogee makes some really good ones, but I would sure want to read some reviews before buying one.


@Dana Riddle @Brew12 @justingraham
What's a good par meter for the price?

Thanks!!
 
I'd rent that MQ-510 Full Spectrum Underwater LED PAR Meter

Seems like Apogee makes some really good ones, but I would sure want to read some reviews before buying one.


@Dana Riddle @Brew12 @justingraham
What's a good par meter for the price?

Thanks!!
If you've got deep pockets, go for the Li-Cor quantum meter and submersible sensor. This combo remains the gold standard for quantum meters but there are drawbacks - it is expensive (mine was $1,500) and the sensor is bulky, making its use difficult in close quarters. The best compromise is an Apogee meter. If you're using full-spectrum lighting (T5s, metal halides) choose any Apogee meter with the black sensor (but you may need to correct for the immersion effect.) If using LEDs, go with the silver or blue sensor. My choice - the MQ-510. Pricey, but considering that some frags are in the $100+ range, the meter will pay for itself. I hear Seneye has a new device on the market (or soon) but I don't know much about it. Matt said he'd give me a peek but I haven't talked with him in a while.
Look at Apogee's website and choose a meter that is in your budget. Let me know which one and we'll discuss the pros and cons (I collect PAR meters and have maybe 6 different ones in the lab.)
 
As others have mentioned, really helps to have a par meter. I use the seneye just for par measurements as it’s relatively inexpensive compared to some of the others. You don’t need extreme accuracy. If changing lights I would probably start at a slightly lower par then previously if spectrum has changed. Also measure all of the spots in your tank so you know the par everywhere. It will serve you well as a guide when making placement decisions. Just go slowly upping par over time, like really slow. I don’t go higher then about mid 400s running sps ab+ in my lower nutrient system.
 

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