Acclimation best practices

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143MPCo

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Looking for best practices… how do you introduce new family members to your tanks, and give your new fish a safe place while your existing fish get accustomed to the new ones?
 
I use the drip method of acclimation. I also use an acclimation box inside my tank.
 
A lot depends on the specifics of the tank, the new member, what the old members are, your parameters v the water they are coming from etc.

I quarantine all new fish, & I use old reef water for new quarantine water so parameters are no issue for me. I'm not really adding much for fish anymore, but if I were worried about aggression, I would use an acclimation box, and/or add new guy at night. Also adding a few new guys at the same time helps greatly.
 
I used to use the drip method until I realized the temp in the bucket was dropping too quickly. Now I float the bag in a corner of the tank with the lights off and add a little water every few minutes. I like to wait until night time before I let the fish lose. This allows time for the other tank mates to see the new fish in the bag and hopefully, once released, gives the new fish a restful night before it has to defend itself in the daylight.
 
I used to use the drip method until I realized the temp in the bucket was dropping too quickly. Now I float the bag in a corner of the tank with the lights off and add a little water every few minutes. I like to wait until night time before I let the fish lose. This allows time for the other tank mates to see the new fish in the bag and hopefully, once released, gives the new fish a restful night before it has to defend itself in the daylight.
I do similar, but I have the tank lights off and the room darkened. I don't like to leave then in the bag that long. I think it stresses them as they feel exposed.
 
" I realized the temp in the bucket was dropping too quickly."

I have had the same issue, I like the lights out trick also... have you consider a temporary dwelling like maybe an "acclimation box"?
 
Well, let's see, being doing acclimation this way for over a decade:

1. QT all fish (and maybe all inverts too); if you don't QT, don't bother reading any further
2. Adjust salinity of QT to that of incoming water; then all that's required is a quick 15 minute float to equalize temperature
3. Kept fish in QT for at least 8 weeks, observe/medicate as required and feed heavily!
4. Use a socialization box, and release fish after the lights have gone down. If you still have aggression issues a mirror placed on one end of the tank is quite effective at redirecting issues - fish really aren't all that bright.

Obvious benefit of QT is for disease prevention, but an unappreciated benefit is the ability to get a fish nice and chubby so it has a better chance of surviving the display.
 
Remember once you get a shipment and the anamal has been in there a while once you open the bag the water turns toxic pretty fast just keep that in mind
 
Yup the few times I actually tested bag water, from overnight shipping, ammonia was over 5ppm which is very high. Add some tank water to that, ph rises instantly turning it toxic.
 
Is this something you built, can you post an image of it?

I do have a pic. I made it out of a clear one gallon water dispenser from walmart. just cut 2 sides out and replaced with mesh netting. Cost about $8. worked great the one time I used it. Wish I made it prior to my tanks being so full of fish.
 
I do have a pic. I made it out of a clear one gallon water dispenser from walmart. just cut 2 sides out and replaced with mesh netting. Cost about $8. worked great the one time I used it. Wish I made it prior to my tanks being so full of fish.

love DIY... thx!
 
Well, let's see, being doing acclimation this way for over a decade:

1. QT all fish (and maybe all inverts too); if you don't QT, don't bother reading any further
2. Adjust salinity of QT to that of incoming water; then all that's required is a quick 15 minute float to equalize temperature
3. Kept fish in QT for at least 8 weeks, observe/medicate as required and feed heavily!
4. Use a socialization box, and release fish after the lights have gone down. If you still have aggression issues a mirror placed on one end of the tank is quite effective at redirecting issues - fish really aren't all that bright.

Obvious benefit of QT is for disease prevention, but an unappreciated benefit is the ability to get a fish nice and chubby so it has a better chance of surviving the display.

Obviously your system is the best method to follow. Unfortunately at this time I cannot have a QT tank but hope to have one in the near future. Because I don't have a QT tank, I never buy online and never buy a fish unless its been in the LFS for at least a week. That's why I stick with only a few LFS that I feel comfortable with and visit them several times a week when I find a fish I'm interested in. Obviously I missed out on several fish I really would like to have owned. This is my way of being safe than sorry. By the way, I like your trick with the mirror.
 
FWIW, though it may seem somewhat counterintuitive, you are actually better off buying fish as soon as they arrive at the LFS (assuming they look good). Far more likely that disease exists in the LFS system, so the less time they spend there, the better.
 
I QT for 4-5 weeks, then I usually use a social acclimation box for introducing the new tank mate (exceptions made for fish which don't share a body style or genera with any of my current inhabitants). I usually put them into the box with lights out and release them with lights out (with a couple of days between of course).

My social acclimation box is a 2.5 gallon water dispenser with holes drilled into it. It's larger than most commercial boxes and was about 1/4 to 1/8 of the cost. :thumb:
 
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I do exactly what calorie says. Usually qt starts with tank transfer but with delicate fish I go straight to a cycled QT tank.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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