Acer's build thread ( 3RMAS area)

[Jonreefer]

Sounds more like they got burned by to high light and it killed them off. Since what you have already might been use to that but they might been kept at lower light and wiped them out. How high up in the tank were the frags.

 

[acer]

Frags all placed pretty high in tank .. so I guess that is possible- but all are sps/acros which require high light . Hmmmm- that is something i had not thought of. Well done my friend.

 

[acer]

Tonight I put back in the two 7 inch filter socks and changed the media reactor from a GFO only to a dual GFO/ROX Carbon unit. Sundays is my normal 15-20 gallon water change schedule. So, just for giggles I tested my new mixed water = Fritz pro at 76 degrees , specific gravity of 1.026. And guess what- with the Hanna ultra phosphate it tested at 20 = .063 PPM, ALK was 8.5. So how can new salt mixed water have a .063 PO4?? My RODI TDS meter reads 1. Is it possible I got a bad batch of Fritz pro salt mix and that has been my issue this whole time? or maybe my Salt mixing station isn't so "food grade" after all. this hobby is going to turn me grey...

 

[kevinl]

I would check your ro/di water before mixing.

 

[acer]

yep= it will be interesting to see if my ATI test on the RODI water shows anything. Will the Hanna ULR phosphate checker work on just RODI water?

Edit: NOPE, after doing some research I found out that the Hanna marine checker ULR will not work to test RODI or freshwater.

 

[kevinl]

I did a little searching and I think you can test it.
But
Randy Holmes-Farley responded in most posts that it would not be a significant source of P04 unless its extremely high.

 

[acer]

Hmm .... Read several threads saying no to the po4 test from Hanna on todi. Define "significant"? If yes us zero then po4 should be zero- correct.

 

[kevinl]

Hanna makes 2 checkers:
1
PHOSPHATE LOW RANGE COLORIMETER HI713 HANNA CHECKER - FRESH & MARINE WATER
2
PHOSPHORUS ULTRA LOW RANGE COLORIMETER HI736 HANNA CHECKER - MARINE WATER

 

[acer]

Ya. Mine is the ULR 736 checker unit.

I ordered from BRS a RODI kit - so I will just make new salt mix after installing the new RODI components ( RI resin, filters, etc. ) and I think I have another TDS meter. If both my TDS meters read zero on the new RODI and then the new salt mix still reads at over 5-20 PPB - then the phosphate is coming from the Fritz salt mix.

 

[kevinl]

not true

 

[acer]

Where else could the phosphate be coming from.

 

[kevinl]

You are using TDS measurements against P04 measurements.
I could very well be wrong, but I think it's 2 different things.
I think you can have 0 TDS and still have a P04 reading.
P04 I think comes mostly from food we use, It can leach from other things as well.
Also not sure about fish poop, could also be a source.
Did u do a ICP test on fresh ro water AND your tank water? That would have been great to do, if you did.

 

[kevinl]

You should have that test result very soon right?

 

[acer]

I agree on the tank water should have some PO4 from food, rock, fish poop,etc. - but I am talking about fresh made salt water mix- if I make the fresh salt mix with RODI water that has zero TDS, then test the new salt mix it should have zero PO4.
If the new salterwater mix doesn't test a 1-2 PPB or zero (within the Hanna ULR checker error range) then whatever PO4 it has in it has to be coming from the salt mix, as RODI with a TDS of zero cannot have any PO4.

Yes the ATI testing was for both RODI and for Tank water. Yes, I hope the results are here soon, it was put in the Mail on 3/9/19.

 

[BIGGUN]

20 ppb is .02 ppm. I wonder how unusual .02 ppm is on an ultra low Hanna? I believe those are testing for inorganic and organic phosphorus.

 

[acer]

No, there is a conversion between ppb and ppm. It's not just moving the decimal point. My 20 ppb is actually .061 in ppm

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/h...ose-numbers-that-mean-something-to-me.223849/

 

[BIGGUN]

I knew the Phosphorus played some role in it. Even so, if that's the case that Fritz is giving you .061 it would still lower your .13-.15 readings each time you changed water. So your PO4 numbers are getting elevated elsewhere. What are your targeting PO4 wise?

 

[acer]

oh yes, I am just saying that I don't think a new mix should have any Po4 in it at all. Just tested my po4 and its 32 = .098, So we are getting there with changing out the GFO again after 1 week. I am sure the PO4 is coming from food. goal = .03-.06 ppm.

 

[acer]

ATI results are in:

RODI recommendation:

Salinity
0
KH
0
ATI recommends
Device needs service, resin should be renewed.

Following actions should be applied in order to provide a stable water quality:

• use silicat adsorber (check RO water)

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entries
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Symbol Value Calculated reference value Difference Result Actions
Base elements
Salinity (NaCl) 0 PSU 35.00 PSU -35.00 PSU

Carbonate hardness 0 °dKH 7.50 °dKH -7.50 °dKH

Minor elements
Silicon 176.2 µg/l 0 µg/l +176.2 µg/l

Nutrients
Nitrate 0 mg/l 2.00 mg/l -2.00 mg/l

Tank Recommendations:

Salinity
32.77
KH
7.44

Following ATI supplements should be applied in order to provide a stable water quality

Important

Dosage supplements, 1 dosage per day

Supplements
Number of doses
Quantity per dosage

Iod
2
0.33 ml


Recommended

Dosage supplements, 1 dosage per day

Supplements
Number of doses
Quantity per dosage

Vanadium
2
0.63 ml

Mangan
1
0.84 ml

Barium
2
7.72 ml

Fluor
3
17.31 ml


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Symbol Value Calculated reference value Difference Result Actions
Major elements
Magnesium 1454 mg/l 1231 mg/l +223.3 mg/l

Fluorine 0.64 mg/l 1.22 mg/l -0.58 mg/l

Minor elements
Iodine 23.72 µg/l 60.85 µg/l -37.13 µg/l

Barium 0.79 µg/l 9.36 µg/l -8.57 µg/l

Nickel 4.25 µg/l 0.47 µg/l +3.78 µg/l

Manganese u. 0.94 µg/l -0.94 µg/l

Vanadium u. 1.40 µg/l -1.40 µg/l

Nutrients
Phosphorus 31.17 µg/l 14.04 µg/l +17.13 µg/l

Phosphate 0.10 mg/l 0.04 mg/l +0.05 mg/l

so yep- Di resin needs changed again.. not even 6 months old. Po4 is high. Mg is bit low.

 

[loui]

Does you DI resin color change color? If so what color is it looking? When was the last time you changed the membrane, if the membrane is old it may cause your DI resin to have to work over time. Might as well change what ever pre filters you have also.

It almost seems like you are causing more harm then good with the size of the water changes you are doing. Maybe try forgoing your water change regiment and let your tank find it's center. It almost as if your water changes are throwing the tank off before it is able to settle in.

My 75 gallon aquarium which is 5 years old when I do a roughly 7 gallon water change my ALK almost stays the exact amount. My 125 gallon aquarium, which is only about 4 months old when I do roughly 15 gallons my ALK jumps .5. I only have a couple of SPS frags as tester corals, but until I can get the ALK swings lower after water changes I will not be adding new SPS corals (also my Phospahates is around .2), the Zoanthids and Blasto have no ill effect from the ALK swings. I do my water changes every other week.