Acro acclimation. Does anyone bother anymore?

[Barks]

I’m interested if people still acclimate acros.
I specify acros as they’re the fussiest.
Im of the opinion if you’re not going to blast it with silly par it should just be stuck where you think the best place is and leave it.
that way it dosent have the flow and light changing over and over again.
anyone fancy doing my poll.
cheers
Barks

 

[Jbell370]

dip and glue, live or die as nature intended lol

 

[homer1475]

Same.

Dip and place on frag rack. Once encrusted, I remove the plug, and glue to my rocks.

I view acclimating corals the same as acclimating fish. What exactly are we acclimating them to? They come from water, we are putting them back in water. Salinity changes for fish sure I can see acclimating, but corals? Corals come from 1.026ish water, and are being put back into 1.026ish water, whats to acclimate?

 

[Vested]

+1 on just putting it in the optimal spot right away, as long as your not pushing way higher (200+) more par then where it came from.

 

[Pntbll687]

I dip and put them on a rack in the frag tank where I know the par is about 250-350, which is close to where they will go in the display. Make sure they are encrusting, then move to the display.

No need to acclimate in the display since is everything is lit by kessil, and there's no change in spectrum.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Nope. I do not light acclimate either. They go in whatever spot I make available. Somewhere between 250 and 500 par.

I do not dip and clip right out of the bag though. I set up a 3g tank with water from the display and let them relax for a a day or 2. Hit them with a turkey baster and see if anything floats off and check them with a jewelers loop for eggs. Dipping right out the bag causes too much stress imo.

 

[ScottB]

Nope. I do not light acclimate either. They go in whatever spot I make available. Somewhere between 250 and 500 par.

I do not dip and clip right out of the bag though. I set up a 3g tank with water from the display and let them relax for a a day or 2. Hit them with a turkey baster and see if anything floats off and check them with a jewelers loop for eggs. Dipping right out the bag causes too much stress imo.

Same here pretty much. Maybe temp acclimate for a bit in the sump if the bag feels cool. I let them rest for a couple days before dipping.

 

[happyhourhero]

Dip and glue for me.

 

[AKL1950]

When I get them, I temp acclimate, I dip, look for eggs and then put them on a Frag rack under medium light. Within two days, I’ve decided where they will be glued down and glue them to their permanent spot. So, basically, 24-48 hours of light acclimation.

 

[Smite]

No acclimation for me either. Clip, dip and glue them to rock rubble i keep in my sump. Then I'll glue that where I want it. If it doesn't like the spot I can still move it later but for the most part, they do fine.

 

[Max93]

I don’t dip anymore as I buy from only two reputable vendors online.

I do temperature acclimate, and then add a few cups of water from my tank then straight to the spot they’re gonna live on.

I don’t understand the whole acclimation to light thing unless you run LED. What are we acclimating them to, the sun?

 

[Bruce Burnett]

Well no choice on the list for me. As long as alk and salinity are close I remove from bag and put into bowl of display water. Give a visual inspection then glue where I want them. No dip. Acclimate to lights over 7 days as I run my lights almost full blast

 

[cooltowncorals]

Dip it and glue it.

 

[oldschoolnewventure]

I always dip, however, ive come to learn that it is better to let them adjust to the tank over a period of days prior to dipping. Dipping right out of the bag does cause stress, and mortality.

 

[homer1475]

Saw this posted in another thread, and thought of this one.

Acclimating corals, how most home hobbyists should do it (video) | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

Imagine that you are just stepping off a long inter-continental flight. As you step off you are walked through a long hallway with air that has a smooth gradient of temperature and pressure to…

reefbuilders.com

 

[HankstankXXL750 Verified Sponsor]

But then again I’m really struggling with sticks.

 

[InvaderJim]

I usually temp acclimate while I get my supplies ready, dip and they go to the frag rack until I decide where to put them.

 

[mortimersnerd]

No acclimation here.

 

[nycfreshreef]

Dip and glue (usually they end up going right into 200-350 par) somewhere in between…. But when I want to put a frag 400 par or above then I will light acclimate only , after Dipping

This system has resulted in about 95% success rate so far (over the years there have been 2 frags that RTN within the first 24 hours , 1 angry bird and 1 vivid …. maybe they could have been saved with more acclimation, I’m not really sure ) definitely was a bummer when it happened

 

[HankstankXXL750 Verified Sponsor]

Dip and glue (usually they end up going right into 200-350 par) somewhere in between…. But when I want to put a frag 400 par or above then I will light acclimate only , after Dipping

This system has resulted in about 95% success rate so far (over the years there have been 2 frags that RTN within the first 24 hours , 1 angry bird and 1 vivid …. maybe they could have been saved with more acclimation, I’m not really sure ) definitely was a bummer when it happened

What do you use to dip? I have had some real problems with getting acros to survive past the dip. I use seachem reef dip and then H2O2 at the strength listed on a table here in R2R I believe. I am now also @Reef By Steele. Thanks