Acro Colors - Help

[reefer1]

Hi SPS-gurus,
I need your invaluable assistance. I've read through countless posts to try to figure out why my sps colors are not as hoped. I've tried a few things but no success. Here is all the information I can think of. Any suggestions welcome.
Thanks!

1) two Oregon Tort acropora (1.5" tall, 6 months in tank, great poly extension, encrusting) - light bright blue tips, but not deep blue on body, more bluish tan
2) Tierra del Fuego acropora (1.5" tall, 3 months in tank, great poly extension, starting to encrust) - red polyps but body faded to pinkish white
3) Pink Lemonade (2" tall, 3 months in tank, good poly extension) - colors faded, no yellow
4) Starwberry shortcake (1" tall, 3 months in tank, good poly extension) - pink polyps but body faded to pinkish white
4) starburst monti - looks good (lower in tank, deep red with yellow polyps)
5) a few chalices (on the sand) that too are somewhat faded (monster bubble gum for example)

Here are my tank details:
tank has been running for about 2 years
105-gallon + 20-gallon sump
Apex controller
all parameters locked in (doser sets alkalinity 130ppm, calcium 450ppm, mag 1360ppm)
temp = 79 degrees
ATO unit
biopellets in reactor with exit tube feeding close to skimmer intake
rowaphos in two little fishies reactor
carbon bag in filter sock
2 MP40's at 90% reef crest mode

dose ultra fuel (contains amino acids) along with oyster feast and phytoplankton at night with skimmer off (for 6 hours)
dosing potassium seemed to bring out some blue in the Oregon torts but negatively affected others
no way to measure accurately since I can't find Salifert kit anymore
Any other trace elements to promote color?

All the coral are 4-5" from the top of the tank and the MP40's are moving their polyps.
Lighting sits about 3-4" above water
Maxspect 300W full spectrum LED
two 54W T5 HO lights (blue plus and coral plus bulbs)
Lights ramp up and down, max level about 85% for about 4-5 hours/day
I've tried increasing the max lighting but it seemed to make things even more faded. Longer less-intense lights?

Thanks Again!

 

[Chaz D]

How long have you had these frags and how long have they been under this lighting? 85% on that fixture with t5s and you're running it 7" above them? I'd consider backing off the light significantly, maybe look at hanging that fixture higher to get some better spread considering you have corals so placed so high in the tank. Aside from the lighting, it's also possible they're nutrient starved. Could be the gfo, pellets or overuse of carbon contributing to this. You could try slowly reducing gfo usage and see if that helps.

 

[Deep_Six Corals]

I would have to go with nutrient starved as well. What are your no3 and po4 at right now? Between the pellets gfo and carbon you're probably cycling out most no3 and po4. Your alk at 7.2 perfect for a ulns but super intense light at low nutrient levels can cause issues as well. I would say take the gfo off line and feed heavier. Maybe add a fish?

 

[reefer1]

Thanks for the feedback.
My no3 and po4 measure zero. I have some light algae growth on the glass though.
Five fish in the tank: two clowns (2-3"), yellow wrasse (3"), radiant wrasse (3.5"), tomini tang (3.5")
Feed 2-3 times daily.

Corals are growing slowly. I see the acropora encrusting and new eyes forming on the chalices

Based on the feedback, I backed on the flow through the gfo and will gradually turn down my lights. (I thought I needed to run gfo while running biopellets.) Also, the skimmer is off when I feed/dose corals.

Any other suggestions/comments?

 

[leptang]

Maybe water flow is a problem. Check out this article.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2015/6/aafeature
Also maybe lower the temp to round 75-77f

 

[Chaz D]

How much biopellets are your running? Can you reduce the amount some how?

 

[Moonlightreef]

I would have to go with nutrient starved as well. What are your no3 and po4 at right now? Between the pellets gfo and carbon you're probably cycling out most no3 and po4. Your alk at 7.2 perfect for a ulns but super intense light at low nutrient levels can cause issues as well. I would say take the gfo off line and feed heavier. Maybe add a fish?

+1

 

[Russ*Acro]

Carbon, biopellets, ULNS, high light. I would cut the carbon and pellets, do a couple extra water changes because your levels are going to raise after the pellets and carbon come offline. Turn your lights down or raise them above tank higher.

 

[Rickyrooz]

+1 how long have the frags been in the tank? They do take time to color up.

 

[reefer1]

Thanks for the information.
Here are some quick answers:
1) Water movement is pretty strong and random (2 MP40s at 90% reef crest mode).
Is it possible for the water movement to be too strong?
2) Frags have been in the tank 3-6 months or longer. I think they have adjusted and that is why the color is faded. Now, the question is why have they adjusted this way.

Here is what I have done so far:
1) Turned down peak lighting T5s at 70% peak, LEDs at 60% peak
How fast can the lights be decreased? What signs should I look for to find the right light intensity?
2) Removed carbon
3) Turned off return pump for 3-4 hours/day. This removes biopellets and skimmer from system during that time to try to bump up nutrients

 

[hart24601]

I would stick with one change at a time and see how it goes. IMO undetectable nitrates = faded acro color. When I see a thread title along the lines of no or faded acro colors I automatically think "I bet there are no detectable nitrates" - unless they just switched to LED and are running crazy high intensity. I carbon dose, but I will add some nitrate to the system if I notice colors fading, I keep the carbon dosing though as I feel it gives the system more benefits than just nutrient reduction.

 

[reefer1]

How do I add nitrates in a controlled fashion?

 

[hart24601]

You can get either calcium nitrate or potassium nitrate online and dose it. There are some calculator for freshwater planted tanks. I have done it a few times when I lose colors and nitrate is undetectable, I personally saw colors recover very quickly. You can also feed more, but if you don't was phosphates dosing nitrate is nice.

 

[hart24601]

http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/calculator.htm

Sweet calculator here. I aim for 1ppm, but 0.1ppm would be good to start if you decide on this route. See if your test kit can detect it, but I bet the coral use it so fast you won't see it on a test.

 

[reefer1]

Right now my calcium is a little high. It seems to bump up when I do water changes. And the consumption is low - might be related to the zero nitrates...
So, what brand of potassium-nitrate would you recommend? I didn't see anything obvious at Marine Depot. By the way, do amino acids also affect nitrates? Thanks!

 

[hart24601]

I just get either calcium nitrate of potassium nitrate from either ebay or amazon. I doubt you are adding enough amino acids to impact nitrate, although if you added enough I think they would, but it would take a lot IMO.

 

[Chaz D]

Dosing nitrate will not help you long term if you're running too many pellets. It is a good short term fix, but you must understand it will also drive your phosphates down, which is not good since you're already at zero. Try feeding a LOT more and removing almost all but the smallest amount of biopellets. Gradually work your way up over the course of a few months ensuring you have low but not zero readings.

 

[reefer1]

It's going to take about a week to get potassium-nitrate. In the meantime, it seems that there is the possibility to reduce my nutrient export. So, what's the best way to dial in my system and WHY will it work/recommended?
System details: biopellet reactor with output tube near intake of Tunze 9006 skimmer, both located in sump
biopellets about 4" tall (without water flow)

Options:
a) Reduce biopellets to 1-2" and cut down water flow
b) Move biopellet reactor outlet away from skimmer intake
c) Cut down skimmer ON time
d) All of the above
e) Another idea

Thanks!

 

[hart24601]

I would just reduce the amount of biopellets for now and see how things look after a few days. I would also think about reducing the max photoperiod by 1hr and just keep an eye on them.

IME my goal is still 0 phosphate. I have never seen having 0 phosphate impact the color of my coral, but I have enough bioload there is a lot of phosphate in the food and from the fish that despite testing 0 there is plenty in the tank.

 

[ReefBum]

Agree that the tank might be too sterile.....I think a slightly "dirty" tank with barely detectable nitrates and phosphates is not a bad thing for acro colors. It might help to add more fish since 5 in a 105g system is a light load. Fish poop is also a good thing when it comes to SPS.