Acro dieing from below

[29bonsaireef]

If it is an infection, this **** is the pits.. Don't think anyone here will be able to provide you with a proven method to stop this, unfortunately. You could try a few things, but in the end if it does not subdue the corals will perish. Fragging what you can is probably your best bet, imo. I've tried quite literally every method to stop this infection.

Last time I had this I tried a Cipro/Amox mix as a last result in QT and the corals seemed to be holding steady for a few days. Then a pump shorted and wiped out everything and haven't had it since to retry my method. Who knows if the corals would've survived in the end though. This was also with a more rapid infection.

 

[rock_lobster]

Lighting hasn’t changed. Phosphates were non detectable when last tested. However, there is a light film of greenish brown algae on the glass every day..

If phos was nondetectable for even one week with the ULR hanna tester your sps will 100% RTN from the base up.

 

[Ben Pedersen]

If phos was nondetectable for even one week with the ULR hanna tester your sps will 100% RTN from the base up.

I would agree. However there is greenish brown alge on the glass every day. So I can’t imagine that the test was accurate. In addition, the coral are still growing with good color, not pastel. It’s like they don’t even know they are sick.

 

[rock_lobster]

I would agree. However there is greenish brown alge on the glass every day. So I can’t imagine that the test was accurate. In addition, the coral are still growing with good color, not pastel. It’s like they don’t even know they are sick.

You’ll still get algae I did. I would raise the phos and get an accurate test done but that’s just imo. Happened to me several times and phos was always the culprit even when I had plenty of algae growth it will simply outcompete the sps.

 

[Ezeke1]

Do you drip directly in your tank? How much? What brand? What are the risks?

During water changes I set aside some water in a 2 gal bucket dosed with bayer insecticide. After dipping corals for 15 mins I place them in old water for another 15mins before adding them back into the display. Then to be safe I dip the corals again a few days later during a water change.

This has worked for me because the corals that were bleaching stopped regressing amd eventually began to encrust over the dead area. Granted I’ve lost some frags as well so dipping isn’t a sure thing but if you catch the necrosis early your odds are better.

 

[Da8]

I had the same issue for about eight months. Nobody could give me an accurate answer to the problem. Kh 7. Ca 480 Mg 1380

Nitrate undetectable Phosphates 0,01/0,04


Had to check my ph. It was not high enough so improve a ir quality.
I also added more Flow to the tank (sonetimes we think we have enough and is not)

Started feeding much more daily. Mysys to to the fish and pólip lab food to the sps.

And I bet it could be your problem too

 

[Ben Pedersen]

You’ll still get algae I did. I would raise the phos and get an accurate test done but that’s just imo. Happened to me several times and phos was always the culprit even when I had plenty of algae growth it will simply outcompete the sps.

Wouldn’t the condition you are describing cause the corals to loose color (be pastel)? I will test again.

 

[Ben Pedersen]

I had the same issue for about eight months. Nobody could give me an accurate answer to the problem. Kh 7. Ca 480 Mg 1380

Nitrate undetectable Phosphates 0,01/0,04


Had to check my ph. It was not high enough so improve a ir quality.
I also added more Flow to the tank (sonetimes we think we have enough and is not)

Started feeding much more daily. Mysys to to the fish and pólip lab food to the sps.

And I bet it could be your problem too

My PH is between 8.10 and 8.32. The corals are still growing with good color. Under the conditions you are talking about the corals would stop growing and become pale/pastel then they would die. In my case, there is a white band of dead coral starting around the bottom and moving up. The coral above the band are completely happy with great color and good polyp extention.

 

[TexasTodd]

Higher levels of N and P then you have won't kill the SPS so you might as well try raising them a bit.

 

[Ben Pedersen]

During water changes I set aside some water in a 2 gal bucket dosed with bayer insecticide. After dipping corals for 15 mins I place them in old water for another 15mins before adding them back into the display. Then to be safe I dip the corals again a few days later during a water change.

This has worked for me because the corals that were bleaching stopped regressing amd eventually began to encrust over the dead area. Granted I’ve lost some frags as well so dipping isn’t a sure thing but if you catch the necrosis early your odds are better.

Not realistic in my case. The coral and rock has mostly grown together.

 

[Ezeke1]

Something else I did was to dose Microbacter7 to help with the bacteria culture. I dosed it about once every few weeks.

 

[Mattrg02]

Something else I did was to dose Microbacter7 to help with the bacteria culture. I dosed it about once every few weeks.

MB7 will reduce nitrates, or so it claims. You have very low nutrients, so best to put that away for now.

 

[Da8]

My PH is between 8.10 and 8.32. The corals are still growing with good color. Under the conditions you are talking about the corals would stop growing and become pale/pastel then they would die. In my case, there is a white band of dead coral starting around the bottom and moving up. The coral above the band are completely happy with great color and good polyp extention.

I don't agree.

Happend to me as it is happening to you.

Corals growing. Perfect polip extension.

In mi case was not enough daily food. You should try add more food and rise phosphates. In my case it stopped inmediately. A good thing our hobbie has is that you cannot say its not true until you have try at least two weeks.


If not. Study your water Flow. Maybe it is not strong enough

 

[Scorpius]

I recently bottomed out my phosphates, but had plenty of nitrates and I had losses and base stn/rtn. Raise your phosphates.

 

[trido]

Sounds like everyone is pointing toward more nutrients. AS my corals get bigger I expect to see some die off on the bottoms but it does sound like yours is happening quickly. More food is an easy start, more flow is also something to consider especially since there is new die off.

I noticed that you have black box LED's in one of your pictures..

How old are your lights?

 

[29bonsaireef]

If you are seeing film algae on the glass then, IMO.. there should be enough P04 for the corals. If you truly have zero P04 it can be detrimental to the corals over time, but ime you will not see the same effects you are describing. I've gone weeks at a time with zero P04 while away from home only to come home to ugly corals never seen an RTN/STN event like this. I would imagine it would also be effecting all corals as well not just acros, one-by-one.

 

[Foothill Corals]

I also agree, I would try to get some accurate measurements of Phos and Nitrate. Bump up your nutrients and flow. Colonies need MUCH more flow as they grow out.

 

[Foothill Corals]

If you are seeing film algae on the glass then, IMO.. there should be enough P04 for the corals. If you truly have zero P04 it can be detrimental to the corals over time, but ime you will not see the same effects you are describing. I've gone weeks at a time with zero P04 while away from home only to come home to ugly corals never seen an RTN/STN event like this. I would imagine it would also be effecting all corals as well not just acros, one-by-one.

IME it's usually not anyone thing that starts a TN event, It's usually a one-two punch on a coral that is stressed. Things like not enough light, low nutrients, inadequate flow or an Alk fluctuation by them self may stress the coral but if a few of these things happen at the same time watch out.

 

[29bonsaireef]

IME it's usually not anyone thing that starts a TN event, It's usually a one-two punch on a coral that is stressed. Things like not enough light, low nutrients, inadequate flow or an Alk fluctuation by them self may stress the coral but if a few of these things happen at the same time watch out.

Not sure I understand your point, but I agree with what you said. Why I'm thinking that low P04 alone (what is being stated) is not enough to cause this. If in any case it was.. there's probably another variable wether it being strong lighting, high alk..etc that would lead to this. I would triple check everything before adding to P04 which can lead to other ongoing issues. OP's tank just doesn't look like your typical nutrient deprived system, at least in my personal opinion, and I've seen a lot of issue tanks. I'd suspect an infection or disease is at play here. But who knows were all amateurs when it comes to TN events right? I may be wrong..

In all honesty, and idk if I'm allowed to say this here. But I would slap this up on RC as well. Some very valuable member input there that has helped me through tough situations over the years. Lots of old knowledge. Best of luck finding your issue!

 

[Foothill Corals]

My point was his nutrient levels may still be low and I agree that it would be more than that alone.