Acro Dying

kkgaskin90

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An Acro mille frag we have had for about two months is dying. I'm new to SPS and not quite sure where the issue lies. My pH has dropped, but I can't figure out why. Yesterday I opened windows and brought it back up to 8.1, but this morning it is back down again. Here are my parameters. Any suggestions are welcome. It is dying from the base. It is at the top of the tank, high light high flow, under Reefbreeder Photons. All other corals seem fine. Other SPS are Birds nest, Birds of Paradise, Purple Stylo, and what I believe is Acropora Valida (or something similar).

pH: 7.8
Temp: 78
Salinity: 1.025
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 5
Phosphate: 0.25
dKH: 10
Calcium: 480

dKH is usually up around 12. Calcium is usually around 400.
 
Describe the tank for us..

Equipment,
Feeding
Lights,
Water change,
Algae issues.
 
75g with 20g sump/fuge. Maxspect Gyre, Reefbreeder Photon 48 LED, Coralife 125 Skimmer (soon to be upgraded). I was feeding with Continuum Ocean Snow, now I've fed Rotifers in the meantime (approx a week) and have ordered Coral Frenzy. 10 gallon water change weekly. No algae issues.
Also, Birds of Paradise is not the dark color it should be. Very light/green.
 
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No new additions. All were dipped both by me at purchase and the reefer they came from when they were first fragged.
Can't see pests on anything. I did just toss all my Monti from a nudi invasion.
1b159fe58fd76904c4e2a6200d5c9167.jpg
 
It doesn't look happy at all. How much flow and light is it getting?
 
I would move it down. Did you light acclimate? Cut off the base and re attach the frag to something
 
Yes. The lights were new when I got it so I've slowly ramped up. I just hit my max values last week.
It was in the top of his tank under LED at same percentages I'm currently running.
Will fragging at this point not be certain death?
It never really colored up well, but since it was growing and had PE I thought it was just a lighting issue.
 
Why not go get some screen, same stuff you use for the house. Make sure it is a non-metal screen. Cut it up in layers and place it over that acro and light acclimate. it will acts as a shade and when you pull each layer off it will give it a gradual light intensity.
 
Usually when a coral is rtn'ing cut it off where it is slightly above the dead skeleton can save it from getting worse. Its not foolproof but its better than nothing.
 
Does the super glue method work when the frag is RTN? Meaning just cover the dead area with super glue?
 
Does the super glue method work when the frag is RTN? Meaning just cover the dead area with super glue?
I've never had it work for me. Ive had success with fragging them though
 
Ok. What is the best way to go about cutting it? I've never fragged SPS before. Also, should it be dipped in something afterwards? Best way to reattach since it will be quite small?
 
Guys, sorry to interrupt, but I keep on seeing many posts about corals referring to 'RTN' and 'STN' but I cannot figure out what these acronyms mean. A little help, please? Thanks!
 
rapid tissue necrosis RTN
Slow Tissue Necrosis STN

Also to answer the question about fragging I use a pair of coral cutting clippers. Looks like wire cutters with a thinner blade.
 
Ok. What is the best way to go about cutting it? I've never fragged SPS before. Also, should it be dipped in something afterwards? Best way to reattach since it will be quite small?
You could use wire cutters to cut just above the dying tissue.Have a frag plug or rubble rock with some super glue gel "setting" before you make the cut.As long as there are no parasites,I would add it right back to the tank.
 
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I have my Reefbreeder 10" above the water at 40% blue max and 35% white max and every time I go up a percent I get some bleaching especially under the white led diodes. I have read others are running them much higher but I am still working on getting there. I start all of my frags on the bottom front of the tank out of the direct light and work them up. My birdsnests, montis, and digis bleached white when I moved them from t-5s to the leds. I would reglue it and start the frags that are bleaching at a lower light spot in the tank and then move them up as the color comes back.

Also PH changes depending on what time of day it is, mine starts at 7.8 and goes up to 8.1

With that little in the tank you could get away with just water changes and no supplements until you add significantly more hard corals. That said I do like Coral Frenzy, and Acro Power alot
 

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