Acro guru’s

[Reefahholic]

I did a 40/G water change on my 75/G reef this evening. This dropped my water level about 1/2 down the tank of course and exposed some Acro’s to room air. I did turkey baste them with water twice and they were in the air maybe 5 minutes max. A smooth skin Acro (Nick’s Purple passion) apparently didn’t like this change. Alk, temp, and Salinity were matched perfectly. Alk only dropped by 0.01 2 hrs later after the changed when I tested and that was probably not accurate enough to really know. So it wasn’t a significant change like a dKH jump from 8.0 to 9.0 that could cause STN. Anyway, all parameters were the same and all other corals looked good after the water change. The few exposed to the air were sliming of course, but that one Acro now has some white on its pylop tips at the top. This concerned me because I really like that coral. Chances are it will be ok (I hope), but is this normal because I’ve never had this happen before. Should I dip it in Iodine or something or just let it be? I really don’t want it to die. I’m scared it will go up in smoke by morning.

 

[hatfielj]

Not really much you can do about it now. Best thing to do is just leave it be. It probably will pull through fine though. I believe smooth skinned acros are deeper water species and probably aren't exposed to air in the wild. That may explain why that one didn't like the sudden change.

 

[Backreefing]

Because you like that one it will give you problems. ( Murphy’s law ) . The more you like a coral the more it hates you. Same goes for the fish .
That is a big water change? Why so big ?

 

[bluprntguy]

What are you phosphates, nitrates, and PH (before and after the water change)? That large of a water change would certainly created a reduction in phosphates and nitrates and could have swung PH.

Also, curious how you do a 40 gallon water change in 5 minutes...

 

[Dkeller_nc]

I'd go with the advice to leave it alone. There's likely very little you can do, and taking out of the tank and dipping it in who-knows-what definitely isn't going to help the situation. Keep in mind that coral dips are designed to prevent the introduction of parasites, and it's a situation of the parasites being more vulnerable to the chemicals than the coral, but that definitely doesn't mean the coral is immune to the chemicals in the dips.

As an aside, there's likely never a reason to do such a large water change, unless it's an emergency maneuver to try to save the tank after the introduction of a serious contaminant, such as lysol, or maybe a 3 year old thinking the fish were thirsty and needed his orange juice more than he does!

 

[Reefahholic]

What are you phosphates, nitrates, and PH (before and after the water change)? That large of a water change would certainly created a reduction in phosphates and nitrates and could have swung PH.

Also, curious how you do a 40 gallon water change in 5 minutes...

Phosphates were 0.07 and Nitrates were 7. pH Probe needs to be calibrated. After the change my NO3 was 4 and PO4 was 0.03. Alk barely moved because it was matched along with temp and salinity.

Water change was completed quickly (Corals not out of water for long [maybe 5 minutes]) using a big pump. Plus, I did turkey baste them with some water to keep them nice and wet.

 

[Reefahholic]

I'd go with the advice to leave it alone. There's likely very little you can do, and taking out of the tank and dipping it in who-knows-what definitely isn't going to help the situation. Keep in mind that coral dips are designed to prevent the introduction of parasites, and it's a situation of the parasites being more vulnerable to the chemicals than the coral, but that definitely doesn't mean the coral is immune to the chemicals in the dips.

As an aside, there's likely never a reason to do such a large water change, unless it's an emergency maneuver to try to save the tank after the introduction of a serious contaminant, such as lysol, or maybe a 3 year old thinking the fish were thirsty and needed his orange juice more than he does!

Not talking about dipping the coral for parasites. I'm talking about dipping it in something like Brightwell Lugol's solution. Shoudn't that help heal irritated tissue.?

I think you can change about any amount of water you want as long as you match Temp, Alk, Cal, and Salinity. People do it all the time with no ill effects.

 

[Reefahholic]

Not really much you can do about it now. Best thing to do is just leave it be. It probably will pull through fine though. I believe smooth skinned acros are deeper water species and probably aren't exposed to air in the wild. That may explain why that one didn't like the sudden change.

I think you're right. Probably need to move this coral a little deeper in the tank. It's a new coral too, it's not quite as hardy as it will be in the next 6 months.

 

[maroun.c]

prefer to take the water for water change from sump to avoid exposing corals. I still expose some corals in a small cube I run when doing large water changes and usually corals take it fine. I make sure to drain water from sump first and then from tank to the point I want then fill water very quickly in sump and push up to DT, corals are exposed for 5-10 min usually and I never had an issue because of that.

 

[29bonsaireef]

You should be fine, it's common for most corals to slime up, show mesenterial filaments, and even have a little tissue recession at the tips from being exposed to air for a while. I've drained my tanks many times leaving the corals exposed for 30-40 mins and never lost have a coral from that. They don't look the best for a few hours after the WC, but usually come around by the next day.

 

[Dkeller_nc]

Not talking about dipping the coral for parasites. I'm talking about dipping it in something like Brightwell Lugol's solution. Shoudn't that help heal irritated tissue.?

No. In fact, an iodine dip can actually cause tissue necrosis, depending on the concentration and duration.

I think you can change about any amount of water you want as long as you match Temp, Alk, Cal, and Salinity. People do it all the time with no ill effects.

Can and should are two different things. There's just no reason to do it in a large tank unless it's an actual emergency. There is a reason to do it in nano tanks, as it's considerably more difficult to replace alkalinity, calcium and trace elements in such a small volume accurately. And depending on the tank, it may not have any suitable export mechanism for nutrients, such as a skimmer, refugium, GFO reactor, etc...

 

[Thales]

I would not baste the coral when exposed to air. The water has a much harsher effect than it does when the coral is submerged and can blast off slime and tissue. The slime develops to help the coral survive and keep everything moist, if you you rinse it away, you aren't helping the coral. If you are going to have them in the air for 5 min or so, turn off the lights and get it done as quickly as possible and if you feel the need to wet the corals, mist them lightly.

 

[Reefahholic]

No. In fact, an iodine dip can actually cause tissue necrosis, depending on the concentration and duration.



Can and should are two different things. There's just no reason to do it in a large tank unless it's an actual emergency. There is a reason to do it in nano tanks, as it's considerably more difficult to replace alkalinity, calcium and trace elements in such a small volume accurately. And depending on the tank, it may not have any suitable export mechanism for nutrients, such as a skimmer, refugium, GFO reactor, etc...

Can you explain why a 40/G water change on a 75/G tank is dangerous if all elements are matched?

 

[Reefahholic]

I would not baste the coral when exposed to air. The water has a much harsher effect than it does when the coral is submerged and can blast off slime and tissue. The slime develops to help the coral survive and keep everything moist, if you you rinse it away, you aren't helping the coral. If you are going to have them in the air for 5 min or so, turn off the lights and get it done as quickly as possible and if you feel the need to wet the corals, mist them lightly.

It’s was more of a dibble water over them. Not a blast of course. I think your right about the slime, I think it may be best to leave it alone and just get the job done quickly. As for that smooth skin deeper water Acro, he appears to be healing up. I think he’s gonna be ok. I will move him Below the middle of the tank though. Don’t wanna risk that again. Appreciate the help.

I think turning the lights off or at least dimming them very low is a great idea.

 

[Reefahholic]

You should be fine, it's common for most corals to slime up, show mesenterial filaments, and even have a little tissue recession at the tips from being exposed to air for a while. I've drained my tanks many times leaving the corals exposed for 30-40 mins and never lost have a coral from that. They don't look the best for a few hours after the WC, but usually come around by the next day.

Agreed. I have too and have never had mine white out that much. Just made me think he was fixing to go up in smoke. It’s a new coral too, so I’m assuming that played into it as well. Thx for the help and input.

 

[Reefahholic]

prefer to take the water for water change from sump to avoid exposing corals. I still expose some corals in a small cube I run when doing large water changes and usually corals take it fine. I make sure to drain water from sump first and then from tank to the point I want then fill water very quickly in sump and push up to DT, corals are exposed for 5-10 min usually and I never had an issue because of that.

Probably would do it that way, but I have a mark on the side of my tank that’s measured for about 40/G’s with a black permanent marker. That’s why I’ve been only draining from the DT. Maybe I should do a calculation for the sump too. Thx man!

 

[Reefahholic]

Here it is this morning. Looking a lot better.

It’s the purple frag.

 

[Dkeller_nc]

Can you explain why a 40/G water change on a 75/G tank is dangerous if all elements are matched?

It's not dangerous, as long as everything as matched as you noted. I guess the only potential danger is dropping dissolved nutrients by about 50% all in one go. I just don't see a reason to do it in a tank with normal export mechanisms.

 

[Reefahholic]

It's not dangerous, as long as everything as matched as you noted. I guess the only potential danger is dropping dissolved nutrients by about 50% all in one go. I just don't see a reason to do it in a tank with normal export mechanisms.

I supplement NaNO3 and Na3PO4 directly after the water change from my phone in about 2 seconds if needed. I can change just about any amount of water w/o issues. The levels would need to be at zero for a while or change significantly in order to cause problems. Dropping PO4 from 0.07 to 0.03 and NO3 from 7 to 3 isn’t a concern for me. What is concerning is how that one Acro responded to the air for such a short period of time. With that said, he will be moved. Anyway, I truly appreciate you chiming in to help and also hearing your opinions. Thank you!

 

[Dkeller_nc]

BTW - I don't know if you've seen Brandon's reef-bowl water change procedure, but he has corals out of the water for some 30 minutes or so without apparent damage. They're not acros, but it's rather amazing that he does it regularly.