Acro necrosis, no algae and dino

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If it were me i'd be removing some of that siporax so the corals can have some nutrients while you sort out the other issue.
That's the 2nd test the po4 is still in the floor yeah? & with that so low the No3 must also be very low.
No kalk or gfo being used so its only bac driven whats keeping the nutrients so low?.

I used 100 ml of Al99 for about 2 days before **** hit the fan, thats all the biding media used. Had some PH issues in the start of the tank and i dripped kalk for two days before getting an airline outside. So both have been used but not between the two triton tests. I currently have 3 litres of siporax in a basket along with about 30 kilos of LR in a reefer 425XL so total volum is 425 - LR and equipment. I could take out the siporax since its mature and all from my previous tank which it was in for over a year. Might have overdone it a tad.
 
What is your PH?
klcHv3Y.jpg
 
Havent really thought about it. Just know i almost had it beat and did a 20% wc and it got alot worse about two days later :/
It's not a pro biotic salt?
And I'd have to say if it the WC are making it worse that may be an indicator of a problem with the source water.

Were your nutrints not. An issue I'd say use gfo as a bunder to make sure your not dumping silicates in. Perhaps check your water containers and make sure they're clean.
If it were me i'd be removing some of that siporax so the corals can have some nutrients while you sort out the other issue.
That's the 2nd test the po4 is still in the floor yeah? & with that so low the No3 must also be very low.
No kalk or gfo being used so its only bac driven whats keeping the nutrients so low?.
Some tanks like mine just eat up nutrints. Also the the Dino's will as well just like a fuge or Gha or Bryopsis infestation.
 
It's not a pro biotic salt?
And I'd have to say if it the WC are making it worse that may be an indicator of a problem with the source water.

Were your nutrints not. An issue I'd say use gfo as a bunder to make sure your not dumping silicates in. Perhaps check your water containers and make sure they're clean.

Some tanks like mine just eat up nutrints. Also the the Dino's will as well just like a fuge or Gha or Bryopsis infestation.

Its not a probiotic salt. Have that salt aswell, not using it tho. Its a regular salt. http://aquaforest.eu/en/product/reef-salt/

As said the siporax might be to much, i dont concider my tank to be that heavily stocked and i use 3 litres of it.

The water comes from a RO-unit thats less then a year old, the carbon and particle filters have both been shifted along with the demineralizatio resin. Its showing ~100 TDS in and 0 out.
 
I am finding That CO2 has a factor with cyano. I run the Aquaforest reef salt and basily the program. I have found in the spring and the fall in the past year I have been dealing with cyano I used a red slime remover and that did a great job for about 3 months and the cyanobacteria is coming back down in the crevices of the rock and starting to spread again. I my area I am watching other deal with the same issue and they are using different salt mixes. I do not think it your salt. I do think once the bacteria gets in our systems is tuff to get out. I have been chatting with other and one ran the Zevoit cayno clean with bio mate, coral snow ZeoZym and has had great success. I order the products today and they will be in Tuesday and I am going to treat my system with the Zeovit products for a week and do a maintenance dose every week to see if that works to kill off the cyano once a for all.

I would run the a Red Slime remover to get the cyano off you coral before it starts choking out the corals and I would do this now and not wait. I waited and lost a bunch of coral by playing around with experimenting last fall. I also find and have read that the cyano will give false nutrient readings for the reason that the cyano is living off of the nutrients and your nutrient test higher after using a remover.

The reason I am going with the Zeovit products also is Zeovit is pretty close to Aquforest type of tank management but a little bit more price;)
 
I am finding That CO2 has a factor with cyano. I run the Aquaforest reef salt and basily the program. I have found in the spring and the fall in the past year I have been dealing with cyano I used a red slime remover and that did a great job for about 3 months and the cyanobacteria is coming back down in the crevices of the rock and starting to spread again. I my area I am watching other deal with the same issue and they are using different salt mixes. I do not think it your salt. I do think once the bacteria gets in our systems is tuff to get out. I have been chatting with other and one ran the Zevoit cayno clean with bio mate, coral snow ZeoZym and has had great success. I order the products today and they will be in Tuesday and I am going to treat my system with the Zeovit products for a week and do a maintenance dose every week to see if that works to kill off the cyano once a for all.

I would run the a Red Slime remover to get the cyano off you coral before it starts choking out the corals and I would do this now and not wait. I waited and lost a bunch of coral by playing around with experimenting last fall. I also find and have read that the cyano will give false nutrient readings for the reason that the cyano is living off of the nutrients and your nutrient test higher after using a remover.

The reason I am going with the Zeovit products also is Zeovit is pretty close to Aquforest type of tank management but a little bit more price;)
But im having dino and no cyano atm :)
 
Also were are you running your whites on your light. I just turn my Hydra 26 hd's white down and my dino's my my glass are way down. I use to have to clean my glass daily and now I am clean every 3 to 4 days. I found having my white at 45% instead of 35% at the high point was bleaching my corals I still run my blue high though. My corals are looking much better in the last week and the color is not as pale
 
Running the AB+ by ecotech. 100% blues and violet with 24% white, red and green at 70% atm
 
But im having dino and no cyano atm :)
From the pictures I see Red slime or Red Cyanobacteria all over the corals, This what I have Red Cyano
IMG_4543.JPG
 
Running the AB+ by ecotech. 100% blues and violet with 24% white, red and green at 70% atm
Turn the red and green down to 15% and 10% on the reds
 
Its not a probiotic salt. Have that salt aswell, not using it tho. Its a regular salt. http://aquaforest.eu/en/product/reef-salt/

As said the siporax might be to much, i dont concider my tank to be that heavily stocked and i use 3 litres of it.

The water comes from a RO-unit thats less then a year old, the carbon and particle filters have both been shifted along with the demineralizatio resin. Its showing ~100 TDS in and 0 out.
Yup. But we have seen this before.

The nutrint processing is really up to you. In my main tank I have two Dsb and I just feed a bit more. My sumpless 30 cube takes a LOT of food for some reason too. And will bottom out if I don't pay attention. Both tanks btw have a large coral bio load.

It's possible it's not truly a nutrint problem as Dino's are pretty nasty in what they put out. Hard to say.
But you may want to lower the intensity or reduce duration until it clears up. That will do 2 things. Slow the coral metabolism and lower thier nutrint uptake and slow the growth of the invader.
 
Well.. seems like all my acros. About 30 acros are losing tissue as we speak so im just gonna call quits on this i guess
 
Okay, so this is where im at. Been dosing some KH2PO4 so increase the phosphate in my tank. I've gotten 0.052, 0.055, 0.052 from testing 3 times in a row with my hanna ulr. So this tells me i have atleast 0.034 - 0.073 po4 in my tank, but since all 3 readings are about the same im gonna go ahead and assume im at 0.05x atleast.

My nitrates are 5-10, leaning more toward 10. Probably from overfeeding and some dosing. That said i still have no algae what so ever. The dino seems to be on retreat but i got some cyano (rather have cyano than dino tbh).

I still have no algae what so ever. afaik i dont need to seed the system with regular algae in anyway, so whats missing? My radions are running 12 hours with 1.5 hour ramp up and down, then the ecotech ab+ schedule runs at 70% for 8 hours. This should be more than enough light for basic algae id say.

Im gonna keep adding 0.0092 ppm phosphate from the KH2PO4 daily until friday along with my regular feeding.

What can i do more to help the algae? I have a strong that once the algae starts to grow the corals zooxanthelles will also have a better time.
 

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