Acropora- What Does It Really Take To Succeed?

[JCOLE]

please. If xr15 gen 5 x2 in a 32x24x24 footprint is not enough to keep sps happy in a mixed reef please let me know asap

I have never owned a Radion but I know people who do. The recommended spread of an XR15 is 18x18. With only two then it would be pushing them for maximum coverage and equal spread on a 32" tank for Acros. You wouldn't get the 24" coverage front to back.

Can it be done? I am sure but you would be better off with 4 of the XR15's or 2 of the XR30's for better overall coverage.

Just try it out and see. Hope I am wrong. If you need to add more down the road then that is always the option.

 

[zukihara]

Hey, I appreciate all the replies. Do not think I am not listening

 

[PghReef]

I don't see it mentioned here yet so I'll come in.

T5 lighting. This, with led, is often considered to be one of the best light sources for sps. As colonies grow, led only systems have a lot of issues with shading. This isn't to say that it can't be accomplished, just that it's easier to have a tried and true plug and play forget about it type of lighting combined with the leds. The leds will provide a little extra pop, help dial in the color your looking for, and provide the ramping up/ Down periods.

You can be successful with all dry rock, only leds, no sump or fuge, no skimmer, no dosers, or even any fish or rock period. The only real true requirements are a tank, a light source, state Temps, saltwater, and stable parameters. It won't be easy but it can be done and be done by hand.

I've learned from past failures that I'm not real good at reefing. I need all the help I can get to make my journey easier. That means good powerheads, a nice skimmer, hybrid lighting, dosers on simple timers, a sump with an ato, and lots of liverock.

 

[Bnichols124]

I never said it cannot grow SPS. I said to keep them happy. I would go with 4 XR15's to keep them happy. What do I know though?

I have 2 xr15 g5 blues on a 80 frag, par was at 500 directly under the lights about 3 inches below the water line. I also ran a very long photo period of 100% (8 hours) and recently added 2 led bars. It can be done but stability is the main key. Set ab+ spectrum and done

 

[X-37B]

4 xr15 gen5 for 32"?

One will cover 20x30 according to published data. Your 2 will work just fine, imo.
I am not a led guy but do use a Orphek blue plus bar to simulate dawn dusk only. 3 hrs a day to offset the Halides.
Many locals are going to Orphek bars and selling their radions.
The Orpheks running 5 watt chips at 50% really throw some light.
They grow corals very well and are quality units at an affordable price.
They would be my choice if I was to go full led in the future.

 

[old salt reefer]

I appreciate your reply, but your assertion that xr15 cannot grow sps differs from many. Can you provide non-anectodal evidence on a 24" deep tank that this is a fact? I'm serious.

Well, I have 2 Radon XR15 gen 5 blues over a 30(long)X19(wide)X16(deep) tank using the AB+ spectrum and running point intensity(of all colors) at 100% and schedule intensity at 45%. Above 45% my acros tend to bleach. The acros are about 6" under the surface and pretty much right under the lights. Used radion mounts so light 8" above surface.
The point and schedule intensity is a !@#$%^ feature. If you set each at 50% your really only using 25% of the light.

 

[X-37B]

I don't see it mentioned here yet so I'll come in.

T5 lighting. This, with led, is often considered to be one of the best light sources for sps. As colonies grow, led only systems have a lot of issues with shading. This isn't to say that it can't be accomplished, just that it's easier to have a tried and true plug and play forget about it type of lighting combined with the leds. The leds will provide a little extra pop, help dial in the color your looking for, and provide the ramping up/ Down periods.

You can be successful with all dry rock, only leds, no sump or fuge, no skimmer, no dosers, or even any fish or rock period. The only real true requirements are a tank, a light source, state Temps, saltwater, and stable parameters. It won't be easy but it can be done and be done by hand.

I've learned from past failures that I'm not real good at reefing. I need all the help I can get to make my journey easier. That means good powerheads, a nice skimmer, hybrid lighting, dosers on simple timers, a sump with an ato, and lots of liverock.

I ran my 120 for a year with 8 T5's before going to halides, which I had since day one, but wanted use T5's since I had them. They grow coral very well.
After seeing a few tanks run on all OR3 light bars I would never go back to T5's.
IMO they are that good.
One bar = 2 T5's.
Leds will only get better as time goes by and I see myself, a "die hard" MH guy, going to them one day.

 

[JCOLE]

I have 2 xr15 g5 blues on a 80 frag, par was at 500 directly under the lights about 3 inches below the water line. I also ran a very long photo period of 100% (8 hours) and recently added 2 led bars. It can be done but stability is the main key. Set ab+ spectrum and done

How deep was the frag tank and what were your PAR levels a foot from the lights?

Again, I am sure it will be fine. Just going off experience from other reefers I know that have them. I have a local near me that has a 90 gallon with similar dimensions. He runs 4 XR15s and 2 T5's. He originally had 3 XR15's and was having issues with growth of his Acro's. Once he added the 4th and T5's then it really improved.

Also, I just seen they are the G5's. They are supposed to have better spread than the G4's which is what the hobbyist I know have so you will probably be fine.

I don't want to hijack this guys thread with what lights are best, etc. Just giving my 2 cents that's all.

 

[flyfisher2]

This one is still Pretty relevant

Owning this and other books is awesome and reading them and using them as reference is even better. I'm old school and own the entire series. Much has changed in terms of gear, lighting, etc. but the fundamentals are the same. TAKE YOUR TIME... Watch your parameters and.... TAKE YOUR TIME.

 

[Reef_Obsessed]

Hey, I appreciate the heck out of your response. I would love for you to elaborate. Myself, I am going with CaribSea life rock and some other bacteria, so what you are saying is very important.

Do yourself a favor...get live rock. I bought Caribsea Life Rock and I wish I went live. I just think live works better in a system. Even after being established

I can introduce actual live rock, just like anyone else, and I would love to hear the rationale. Wider variety of bacteria, overall diverse ecosystem, etc.

Thank you.

 

[kenchilada]

Basically, what I see is a bunch of microfauna guys and then a bunch of voodoo. Little science provided anywhere. It's as if people do not want new people to succeed.

You’re right, much of it is a bunch of voodoo. Because a lot of it is pure anecdotal hard-won experience and not science.

There are tangible things you can monitor and test for. These are things like alkalinity, salinity, temperature, PAR, etc. Maybe even spectrum. This is the easy part.

And then there are intangible things. Things like “biodiversity”, “flow”, “placement”, “nutrition”, etc. You can’t quantify those as easily. I’m a huge believer that mature live rock is critical, but I can’t tell you why. It’s just what has worked best for me in the past. Yet I’ll defend it as “the right way”. Most of what you’re reading are people telling you what they think.

Tough right? But wait it gets worse, because there is also opinion, emotion, controversy, stupidity, greed, and bandwagons galore. Today’s “truth”, “fact”, or “best way” are tomorrow’s foolish outdated ideas. One thing is certain in this hobby... the pendulum is always swinging. Dry rock here to stay? Halides going away forever? We’ll see.

Think for yourself and don’t follow anyone’s advice without seeing their tank first. Go slow and learn with cheap disposable frags.

 

[omar jawad]

See, I like this guy...

I have a good RO
A have an ATO
I have Hannah
I have carbon

****, I'm ready!

I love what the Trident does. Knowing those parameters and how they fluctuate daily without manually testing is great. I know when my corals are happy and growing because my alk gets lower. It’s a beneficial tool. I also like the consistency and stability you get with a Calcium reactor. At 80 gallons, it may be overkill but if you have the room and the money, you’ll enjoy what it does for you. Being able to adjust the drip rate on the fly when alk dips is nice and having the Trident makes tuning the Calcium reactor a breeze.

Pick a method that suits your budget and goals and stick with it.

 

[Reef_Obsessed]

Definitely a good variety of bacteria in live rock. I have always heard that SPS grows better in a tank full of live rock. I chose Caribsea and have had trouble. Some good, but a lot of death. I can’t 100% attribute the death to rocks, but it’s something to think about. Also, my Caribsea did not hold its purple color. Mine turned a lime green until it got covered in coralline algae.

 

[Acroguy]

please. If xr15 gen 5 x2 in a 32x24x24 footprint is not enough to keep sps happy in a mixed reef please let me know asap

You will have a lot of shadowing and I agree with JCOLE a t5 fixture would be needed especially if you want “thriving “ acros. For just random SPS yeah your xr15’s maybe sufficient ( although you will still have shadowing ) but for acropora if you really want them to thrive then either at least 4 xr15’s or a minimum of 2 xr 30.
I personally would go 6 xr15’s that would eliminate the shadowing. But then the cost of the light’s would be pretty high and in my opinion t5 is still better especially for acropora and also a lot cheaper than radions.

 

[Juan Andrés Botero R]

You need to manage and master the aquarium well in several aspects:
1- Salinity, temperature, PH.
2- Water flow and illumination (light par and spectrum).
3- Major macroelements (magnesium, calcium and alkalinity)
4- Main nutrients (nitrates, phosphates, potassium) and a special one that is iodine
5- Other macro and microelements (strontium, boron, manganese, etc.)
6- Microbiology (bacteria, algae, dynos, cyano, pods, etc.)
7- Nutrition (food, vitamins and amino acids)
8- Biosecurity and how to avoid pests

It all sounds very complicated and I assure you that you will never completely understand everything, you will always have a challenge and that makes it mysterious, interesting or sometimes frustrating.

Start by listening to those who have already achieved it and ignore so many who have three stones in water and a fish and claim to understand the hobby.

The most important thing is that you enjoy the journey!

 

[wranodj]

First, salt mix doesn’t matter. Start with RO, good lighting, water movement, skimmer a must, nutrient export and patience. Takes tank about a year to settle in. Live rock provides biological diversity. Stability in alk, ca and mag. Start with an easy sps like montipora, towards bottom of tank. Once we can get montipora to grow we can try acro’s. Or at least that’s my experience.

 

[The Farmer]

There isn’t any good trust worthy live rock in my area, what other way can I add biodiversity to my tank?

 

[brmreefer]

I ran my 120 for a year with 8 T5's before going to halides, which I had since day one, but wanted use T5's since I had them. They grow coral very well.
After seeing a few tanks run on all OR3 light bars I would never go back to T5's.
IMO they are that good.
One bar = 2 T5's.
Leds will only get better as time goes by and I see myself, a "die hard" MH guy, going to them one day.

Out of curiosity. What combination of OR3s versions are you running (e.g. Reef day lights, blue sky, and/or UV combinations)? @90's reefer

I'm considering implementing this.

 

[AquaticOttawa]

Water movement is key

just duplicate the ocean in your little glass box

Hahahahah. Love this

 

[PghReef]

There isn’t any good trust worthy live rock in my area, what other way can I add biodiversity to my tank?

Unfortunately that's the case almost everywhere. Live rock in lfs is not what it used to be.

Best options are usually online. I used kpaquatics but others have used liverockandreef, gulfliverock, or tbs amongst others I'm sure.
Also, not liverock, but many have used IPSF and their start up packages.