Acropora- What Does It Really Take To Succeed?

[The Farmer]

Who is IPSF?

 

[Hydrored]

Who is IPSF?

: : : : Indo-Pacific Sea Farms : : : :

Indo-Pacific Sea Farms produces captive-bred marine life for healthier reef aquariums: invertebrates, detritivores, live sand, snail grazers, amphipods, beneficial worms, macro algae, plankton, corals, coral food and beneficial bacteria.

ipsf.com

 

[FishTruck]

Here are some things that can take a year to get the hang of...

Temp 78-81 - your pumps and lights will tend to keep the tank hot. Some trial and error here with the smallest heater and make sure you are prepared for both "stuck on and stuck off" situation with heater. Winter and summer can be very different.


SG 1.025- 1.026 - this can drift down without much harm, but correcting it in the upward direction too quickly can be a disaster. Your auto topoff and water change habits need to be well thought out and disciplined. Water changes are one of the most dangerous things if not done correctly. Make sure you have a good refractometer and know how to calibrate it.

Alk 7-7.5 - run this at this level as a noobie. Like SG... if it drifts down don't panic. Never correct quickly in the upward direction. Pick a salt mix that mixes at a lower Alk (Instant Ocean versus Reef Crystals). You should be checking your Alk twice per week and make sure you truly know how to read and trust your test kit. Running higher Alk (like 10) in my opinion is for experts. You might find... that your tank just wants to sit at a certain Alk number. If that is the case, don't fight it. Stability is best.


Ca 420-450 - Learn how to mix your own two part and keep some on hand. Fix your Mag and Alk first. Know how Calcium, Mag, and Alk affect each other.

Mag 1300-1350 - When you first set up your tank... get the Mag up first. Even 1400 is good. Your calcium is very hard (impossible) to raise if your Mag is low. The ratio is 3 to 1.

ST 8-10
K 400-420

Po4 .02-.08 - Phos is hard to measure, but really can make the difference between growing algae and coral.
No3 5-10 - Easy to measure and track.

If you setup a WC system be consistent. - Seriously. Set up a schedule and stick to it. This will control many things (your Alk, trace elements, nutrients, etc...). Also, make sure your truly understand how to use and maintain your RO/DI unit and how to properly make saltwater. If that gets messed up your water changes can become a liability rather than an asset. Watch out for really old bags of salt too.

 

[Acros]

Here are some things that can take a year to get the hang of...

Temp 78-81 - your pumps and lights will tend to keep the tank hot. Some trial and error here with the smallest heater and make sure you are prepared for both "stuck on and stuck off" situation with heater. Winter and summer can be very different.


SG 1.025- 1.026 - this can drift down without much harm, but correcting it in the upward direction too quickly can be a disaster. Your auto topoff and water change habits need to be well thought out and disciplined. Water changes are one of the most dangerous things if not done correctly. Make sure you have a good refractometer and know how to calibrate it.

Alk 7-7.5 - run this at this level as a noobie. Like SG... if it drifts down don't panic. Never correct quickly in the upward direction. Pick a salt mix that mixes at a lower Alk (Instant Ocean versus Reef Crystals). You should be checking your Alk twice per week and make sure you truly know how to read and trust your test kit. Running higher Alk (like 10) in my opinion is for experts. You might find... that your tank just wants to sit at a certain Alk number. If that is the case, don't fight it. Stability is best.


Ca 420-450 - Learn how to mix your own two part and keep some on hand. Fix your Mag and Alk first. Know how Calcium, Mag, and Alk affect each other.

Mag 1300-1350 - When you first set up your tank... get the Mag up first. Even 1400 is good. Your calcium is very hard (impossible) to raise if your Mag is low. The ratio is 3 to 1.

ST 8-10
K 400-420

Po4 .02-.08 - Phos is hard to measure, but really can make the difference between growing algae and coral.
No3 5-10 - Easy to measure and track.

If you setup a WC system be consistent. - Seriously. Set up a schedule and stick to it. This will control many things (your Alk, trace elements, nutrients, etc...). Also, make sure your truly understand how to use and maintain your RO/DI unit and how to properly make saltwater. If that gets messed up your water changes can become a liability rather than an asset. Watch out for really old bags of salt too.

My Alk is 8.2
Cal - 490
Mag - 1490

Out of 4 test acros, only a Cali tort survived. Are my calc and mag too high?

salinity - 1.025
Nitrite - 0-5 (can’t really tell).
phosphate ~ 0 (Hanna phosphorus ulr on the way).

Tank is 4 months old. Mix of dry rock + live rock form a hobbyist. Bare bottom.

 

[darinsmall86]

So much talk about lighting but barely a mention of a Par Meter. Do yourself a favour and pick up a Seneye Reef and don’t worry about what people say should work. We spend thousands on setting up tanks and I think it’s crazy that a Par meter is at the bottom of most everyone’s list. I’m sure the lights you have will work fine to start and you can add in the future if it becomes a issue.

 

[BradB]

What no one mentioned is the health of what you start with. Acropora isn't hard to grow or color up, and often is easier than a lot of other coral. But when it goes downhill, it sometimes happens fast and is very very difficult to reverse.

When I get really healthy frags that do poorly in my system, they rarely die, at least not right away. They usually don't change much, they might brown out, and they don't grow. A year or so later, I move them to make room for something else, or a fish bumps them, and they eventually end up shaded or in poor flow and die.

I've had success with a few terrible frags, but this is rare. Sometimes the tip grows healthy tissue faster than the base dies, and the healthy tissue lives (sometimes I have to frag it). Sometimes the whole frag slowly gets healthier and starts encrusting before I get new growth. But usually something in rough shape dies quickly.

This is not necessarily a reflection on the health of the starting system. Frags from branches that didn't get enough light, and too small frags from the tips of very fast growing colonies seem to do badly in new systems. Buying frags that encrusted on rock fixes this, although I've had some that does just fine fresh cut in new systems.

I think a lot of what we see is someone buying a colony, it doesn't do so well, so they cut it up and sell frags. These are almost certainly going to die in their new home.

 

[reef4now]

I am into my 7th month of reefing, I still can’t make the leap to sps . I guess what I’m saying is patience is the key ,wait a good year until your tank is really stable.

 

[FishTruck]

My Alk is 8.2
Cal - 490
Mag - 1490

Out of 4 test acros, only a Cali tort survived. Are my calc and mag too high?

salinity - 1.025
Nitrite - 0-5 (can’t really tell).
phosphate ~ 0 (Hanna phosphorus ulr on the way).

Tank is 4 months old. Mix of dry rock + live rock form a hobbyist. Bare bottom.

Nope, if you can hold 8.2 steady it's fine. And... if you have a single SPS growing you are having some success! See if you can keep that tort growing for six to 8 weeks. See if you can cut a little piece off in May and get it to grow in another part of your tank. If you can... it's time for some more frags.

 

[X-37B]

Out of curiosity. What combination of OR3s versions are you running (e.g. Reef day lights, blue sky, and/or UV combinations)? @90's reefer

I'm considering implementing this.

I only run 1 blue plus to supplement my Halides.
Most run a combo of 1:1.
One runs 5 blue plus and 3 reef days on a large system.
Most adjust them to get the color look they want.
I know no one running the uv.

 

[Jon's Reef]

2 XR15 G5 Blues are just fine to start. You are not going to be limited by your lighting with this setup. As the corals grow and your taste in lighting grows, you can always add.

Put aside all of the "I know a guy" stuff. I have a 36x24x22 tank. 2 XR15 G5 Blue and I added a Kessil a360x for shimmer and to boost the 420 nm zone. Remember LED PUR is a lot higher than T5.

No filter

Polyplab Filter

Measurements with Ap 510
G5XR15 @100%.... 2" above top left shelf (4") is 380 par. Top left shelf (6") is 320 par. Middle shelf @12" is 220 par. Left zoa rock (18") 200 par.
G5XR15 @100% and a360x @100% Top left shelf (6") is 450 par. Middle shelf @12" is 320 par. Left zoa rock (18") 300 par.

Great thing about LED like Radion and a360x is I can tune it for the corals in the area. Example, my actual settings are
Left G5 @60%, a360x @75%, right G5@ 30%. Top shelf is 300 par, lower left zoas are ~150. Right LPS zone is ~150

Orphek bars look great... but remember no dimming. 100% on or off.

 

[extremetang]

From an equipment standpoint, I think you have most things needed to run a successful tank. Eventually, what worked best for me is automating somethings like ato, water changes, and dosing. Why bc of the stability that automation provides. But for now, like most said, let bacteria build up in your tank. Dose it if you have too. And Add corals slowly. I see that you’re local to me. If you want something to seed your tank, you’re welcome to some of my tank water or sponge. I have a few frags of beginner sps like stylo or Birdsnest that you can try for free.

 

[X-37B]

2 XR15 G5 Blues are just fine to start. You are not going to be limited by your lighting with this setup. As the corals grow and your taste in lighting grows, you can always add.

Put aside all of the "I know a guy" stuff. I have a 36x24x22 tank. 2 XR15 G5 Blue and I added a Kessil a360x for shimmer and to boost the 420 nm zone. Remember LED PUR is a lot higher than T5.

No filter

Polyplab Filter

Measurements with Ap 510
G5XR15 @100%.... 2" above top left shelf (4") is 380 par. Top left shelf (6") is 320 par. Middle shelf @12" is 220 par. Left zoa rock (18") 200 par.
G5XR15 @100% and a360x @100% Top left shelf (6") is 450 par. Middle shelf @12" is 320 par. Left zoa rock (18") 300 par.

Great thing about LED like Radion and a360x is I can tune it for the corals in the area. Example, my actual settings are
Left G5 @60%, a360x @75%, right G5@ 30%. Top shelf is 300 par, lower left zoas are ~150. Right LPS zone is ~150

Orphek bars look great... but remember no dimming. 100% on or off.

Well said! Most of my reefing friends run Radions with outstanding results.
One thing many new reefers have issues with is constantly changing the settings, imo.
You read it on many threads.
The ones that are keeping their Radions instead of replacing them are using the OR3's to supplement.
They get rid of all the shadowing.
I bought 2 G4's used for a great price for my upgrade but have already sold them and will use the OR3's instead.
I am a Halide guy and I was going to run a combo of both but after seeing the results of the OR3's I will most likely keep the ones on my 120 and use all OR3's on any future tank.
If anything I will never run a T5 again.
Hard to swallow for some but these things are that good, imo.

 

[Rmckoy]

Well said! Most of my reefing friends run Radions with outstanding results.
One thing many new reefers have issues with is constantly changing the settings, imo.
You read it on many threads.
The ones that are keeping their Radions instead of replacing them are using the OR3's to supplement.
They get rid of all the shadowing.
I bought 2 G4's used for a great price for my upgrade but have already sold them and will use the OR3's instead.
I am a Halide guy and I was going to run a combo of both but after seeing the results of the OR3's I will most likely keep the ones on my 120 and use all OR3's on any future tank.
If anything I will never run a T5 again.
Hard to swallow for some but these things are that good, imo.

Do you have a link for the or3 ?

I have always used T5’s and can’t complain with quality of light or no limitations to what I can grow under them .

 

[tripdad]

Here's the best advice I can give you....read,read,read. Then figure out who the people are that CONSISTENTLY grow acros year after year. Listen to them, learn, emulate them. Not saying others don't know things but your new so take advantage of others hard won knowledge and skip the hard lessons and lost money. There are more than a few on this site that have been growing acros for a decade or more. Even a few more on Youtube who are pro shops and willing to share their knowledge, for free! Read, listen, learn. Methods vary but a lot of them are successful. To prove this read Mike Paletta's article on parameters of some master reef keepers. Here's a hint also....you've had one very accomplished grower chime in on this thread already. Be open to receiving advice, you seem to be, but make sure your taking it from someone who has had a good track record. Start with the Rappin with Reefbum series of videos on YouTube. Best of luck and welcome to the insanity!

 

[fcmatt]

Automating dosing of alk and ca in a nutshell. Evrrything else is rookie stuff and not being lazy.

Eventually you will reach the point of I need to remove these weeds out of the tank because it will get ridiculously out of hand.

Think about it. If you are successful eventually coral, anemones, fish, etc.. everything just out grows the darn tank.

At that point you want something more maintainable with less work. You already won the game. More time to just enjoy and less time working on it. Coral becomes a pest in a way when you think in terms of years versus months.

 

[X-37B]

Do you have a link for the or3 ?

I have always used T5’s and can’t complain with quality of light or no limitations to what I can grow under them .

OR3 Reef Aquarium LED Bar •Orphek

Orphek OR3 Reef Aquarium LED Bar, OR3 60 / 90 / 120 / 150 for Coral Pop Fluorescent Color Growth and Illumination – 5Watt Dual Chip LEDs

orphek.com

 

[pseudorand]

When you start growing coraline consistently you’re ready

I got plenty of Coraline in DT. My green slimer + various other SPS did fine in QT for 45 days. 3 weeks in DT and they're all dead. Just about everything I know how to measure is pretty darn stable.

I'm not concerned about wasting the money I spent because I knew that was a possibility going in. I feel a bit bad that I killed my frags. But what's killing me is that I have no idea why the heck they didn't make it. I feel like one of those mice in an experiment where they deliver shocks completely at random and watch the mouse slowly go crazy.

So my answer to your original question: I suspect there's a large component of just dumb luck involved.

Now I have to go back to work. To make more money. To waste on this hobby. Which is still better than leaving it to my kids.

 

[Mike1970]

Equipment does not create biological
Diversity and stability

But it does help hahaha I had to learn this the hard way

 

[Sdot]

I have never owned a Radion but I know people who do. The recommended spread of an XR15 is 18x18. With only two then it would be pushing them for maximum coverage and equal spread on a 32" tank for Acros. You wouldn't get the 24" coverage front to back.

Can it be done? I am sure but you would be better off with 4 of the XR15's or 2 of the XR30's for better overall coverage.

Just try it out and see. Hope I am wrong. If you need to add more down the road then that is always the option.

I agree with this completely. As a person that have owned the 3 XR30 Radions on a previous build i didn't truly understand the coverage issue until i started running into the problem.While they provide light...you want to make sure your corals are in the optimal area for best growth... you tend to need more than the recommended coverage in order to reduce these issues later on.

On my new build i am using 4 Orphek panels perpendicular to provide max coverage on a tank that's only 12.5 inches longer and 6.5 inches wider than my previous build. FYI previous build was 5 foot long and 2 foot wide i had 3 XR30's.

You might not be able to see it in the pictures but easily much better coverage....i can grow sps anywhere and it also minimizes the wierd growth patterns as well. I often get compliments on my coral corymbose shape... or very natural growth pattern. I attribute that to flow and lighting.

 

[X-37B]

I agree with this completely. As a person that have owned the 3 XR30 Radions on a previous build i didn't truly understand the coverage issue until i started running into the problem.While they provide light...you want to make sure your corals are in the optimal area for best growth... you tend to need more than the recommended coverage in order to reduce these issues later on.

On my new build i am using 4 Orphek panels perpendicular to provide max coverage on a tank that's only 12.5 inches longer and 6.5 inches wider than my previous build. FYI previous build was 5 foot long and 2 foot wide i had 3 XR30's.

You might not be able to see it in the pictures but easily much better coverage....i can grow sps anywhere and it also minimizes the wierd growth patterns as well. I often get compliments on my coral corymbose shape...very natural growth. I attribute that to flow and lighting.

Love it, awesome look!
Many locals have done the same with the light bars.
From what I have seen the look of yours and others is similar to Halides, again very nice!